Wheel and Tire Fitment Database
- Thread starter VashEXE
- Start date
2012 Speed3
Suspension: Ksport coilovers
Wheels: XXR 530 18"x8.75" +33
Tires: General Gmax AS-2 235/40/18
Rubbing was real bad. A slight body roll and it would rub. Had my rears rolled REAL FLAT you can't even feel the lip anymore. Bumper tabs were also cut. All this was done by my friend who owned a body shop. He also said that he pushed the inside of the fender outside a little bit. But I never really checked it all I know is it didn't and hasn't rubbed anymore.
Swapped suspension when my Ksport blew.
On Swift springs with stock struts
How much did you friend charge you to roll the fenders? Or was it a pro Bono job? I was thinking about getting the same XXRs but I've never rolled a fender before and don't want to fuck it up.
Your car looks great btw.
Last edited:
KiwiFlavor
Greenie N00B Member
Hey man, he charged me $80 per side if I remember correctly? You really need to heat and roll them slow when you do it.
Thanks! The car was sold last september or so though!
That's not so bad. Thanks for the info!
KiwiFlavor
Greenie N00B Member
Anytime!
2012 MS3
Suspension Setup:
ST X Coilovers set to about 34cm from center of wheel to the start of the fender on all sides (about a finger and a half gap)
Wheels:
Konig Rennform 18x8 +45 plus 5mm spacers on all four corners (effectively making the wheels +40)
Tires:
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (225/40/18 OE size) tires
No rubbing what so ever and I have not rollers any of the fenders. In fact the rears have a lot of space left. I could probably go up to a 8mm or 10mm spacer without rubbing on the current set of 225/40/18 tires that I'm on.
I do plan on going with a 235 tire once it's time to replace my current set. A fender roll will probably need to be performed then.
Suspension Setup:
ST X Coilovers set to about 34cm from center of wheel to the start of the fender on all sides (about a finger and a half gap)
Wheels:
Konig Rennform 18x8 +45 plus 5mm spacers on all four corners (effectively making the wheels +40)
Tires:
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (225/40/18 OE size) tires
No rubbing what so ever and I have not rollers any of the fenders. In fact the rears have a lot of space left. I could probably go up to a 8mm or 10mm spacer without rubbing on the current set of 225/40/18 tires that I'm on.
I do plan on going with a 235 tire once it's time to replace my current set. A fender roll will probably need to be performed then.
I searched to see if I can find it, but I couldn’t. I’m hoping I won’t rub without rolling or stretching fenders. Thinking of getting 18x8.5 +45 TSW Nurburgring wheels on Swift Springs and Bilstein B8s with a BFGoodrich gForce Comp 2 A/S 225/40
gen 2
gen 2
Last edited:
High power sushi roll people wanting to get good street traction
Heres what i used on my ms3
Had no issues hooking 3rd gear on the street at 575whp/467tq on a 5862 to as much as 600+ on a 6266
FD rx7 wheels on all 4 corners.
255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S up front. With extended studs and 20mm spacers to clear the coilovers on the front.
Front running no fender liners. -2* camber and a slight pull on the front fenders
Rear was 225/50/16 Dunlop direzza z2. No spacers.
3rd thru 5th gear WOT on 575/467 map with front tires inflated at 28psi
Heres what i used on my ms3
Had no issues hooking 3rd gear on the street at 575whp/467tq on a 5862 to as much as 600+ on a 6266
FD rx7 wheels on all 4 corners.
255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S up front. With extended studs and 20mm spacers to clear the coilovers on the front.
Front running no fender liners. -2* camber and a slight pull on the front fenders
Rear was 225/50/16 Dunlop direzza z2. No spacers.
3rd thru 5th gear WOT on 575/467 map with front tires inflated at 28psi
Stock Wheel Specs
Our bolt pattern is 5x114.3. Hub bore is 67.1mm. Since the Gen2 should fit similar to the Gen1 this applies to you guys too.
** Stock MS6 Wheels: 18x7 | +55mm offset | 23.5lbs
** Stock Gen1 MS3 Wheels: 18x7 | +52.5mm offset | ~24lbs
** Stock Gen2 MS3 Wheels: 18x7.5 | +52mm offset | 24.6lbs
Use these for reference when using the following sites.
Links from the Wheel Gods
Before you ask ANY questions...you've GOT to check these sites out. They are from the wheel gods and were extremely helpful when I was trying to figure out what wheels & tires I wanted to go with. The first one was my favorite because it gives you a primitive overlay of your current setup and potential new setup. It's also the only site that lets you compare aggressive stretches. The other two are great references as well.
WillTheyFit.com
Wheel / Tire Size Comparer
Wheel Offset Calculator
Wheel/Fitment Terminology
Offset - "The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel." - TireRack.com
Camber - "Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle." - Wheel Camber Explained
How to Read Tire Sizes
Calculating tire Dimensions
https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
Wheels
Generally 8-8.5" wheels are accepted as mildly aggressive and a healthy size wheel for us. Whether you want to run 17s, 18, 19s, or bigger tho is on you. 16s are the smallest you can run with the factory brakes. Right around a +35 offset is accepted as a fairly aggressive yet acceptable offset for these cars. Should sit you close to flush with the fenders without going overboard. Remember the lower the offset the further from your strut/closer to your fender the wheel will be. Higher offset draws the wheel inside the well closer to the strut. You're going to need to break out a tape measure/ruler to see how much offset & width you're willing to run.
Just for the record...zero and negative offsets are ridiculous. Even for the Aggressive Thread.
Here's an awesome thread that's loaded with links on the effects of wheel sizes. You may enjoy some of these. They may even help you decide whether or not the wheels you're looking at are the best for you. Effects of Wheel Size/Weight on Vehicle Performance
Tires
The most common tire size run on MSF is probably 225/40 or 235/40 for aftermarket wheels. Some have run as wide as 255/40 with wheels wide enough for them. For stock wheels, 225s are ok. 235s are a bit wide for the 7" wide stockers but it has been done. There's plenty of wheel width/tire width charts online for you to see if a tire size is ok for your wheel. Fender rolling will likely be necessary for anything wider than 225/40. Especially if your car is lowered at all. But remember, once you start adding power, 225s and 235s just aren't going to get you any traction. At least for you MS3 guys.
As for brands, that's a personal preference. Feel free to discuss your experiences with what you've run. How did they grip, corner? Perform in wet conditions? How long did they last? Did they rub? Etc.
Spacers
Some people simply want more of a flush look without having to buy a whole new set of wheels. Or they have a set of wheels in mind that they like, but they'll sit too close to the strut to run safely. Spacers are the answer for that. Lots of people - domestics, imports, trucks, even offroaders have taken advantage of spacers.
For our cars, you want to get hubcentric spacers. This simply means the spacer centers itself on the hub rather than by the studs. Our hub bore is 67.1mm. There's 2 types of spacers to consider now. Both can be seen in the following pic.
The thinner ones on the bottom are basic spacers - no studs in them. They can be purchased in virtually any width. You typically don't need to install extended studs for anything 5mm or less. Some say up to 8mm is fine, but imho that's pushing it. You want your lugnut to be firmly secure on your stud, and with an 8mm spacer, you may not get enough threading. For anything larger than 5mm (10-15m are common, up to 25mm or thicker) you will need to install extended studs.
The ones on the top have studs built in them. These are typically 15mm or wider. This allows you to run a wide spacer without needing to install extended studs. You bolt this spacer on your hub, then trim your factory studs down with an angle grinder or some cut off tool. The studs can't stick out any further than the spacer or your wheel will not sit properly.
Post up your pics with wheels and specs listed, lowered or not, if you rub and if you rolled fenders or not.
Here is information pertaining to wider wheels and the amount of "poke" they will have compared to a stock setup
Gen 1
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
Speed6
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
Our bolt pattern is 5x114.3. Hub bore is 67.1mm. Since the Gen2 should fit similar to the Gen1 this applies to you guys too.
** Stock MS6 Wheels: 18x7 | +55mm offset | 23.5lbs
** Stock Gen1 MS3 Wheels: 18x7 | +52.5mm offset | ~24lbs
** Stock Gen2 MS3 Wheels: 18x7.5 | +52mm offset | 24.6lbs
Use these for reference when using the following sites.
Links from the Wheel Gods
Before you ask ANY questions...you've GOT to check these sites out. They are from the wheel gods and were extremely helpful when I was trying to figure out what wheels & tires I wanted to go with. The first one was my favorite because it gives you a primitive overlay of your current setup and potential new setup. It's also the only site that lets you compare aggressive stretches. The other two are great references as well.
WillTheyFit.com
Wheel / Tire Size Comparer
Wheel Offset Calculator
Wheel/Fitment Terminology
Offset - "The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel." - TireRack.com
Camber - "Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle." - Wheel Camber Explained
How to Read Tire Sizes
Calculating tire Dimensions
https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
Wheels
Generally 8-8.5" wheels are accepted as mildly aggressive and a healthy size wheel for us. Whether you want to run 17s, 18, 19s, or bigger tho is on you. 16s are the smallest you can run with the factory brakes. Right around a +35 offset is accepted as a fairly aggressive yet acceptable offset for these cars. Should sit you close to flush with the fenders without going overboard. Remember the lower the offset the further from your strut/closer to your fender the wheel will be. Higher offset draws the wheel inside the well closer to the strut. You're going to need to break out a tape measure/ruler to see how much offset & width you're willing to run.
Just for the record...zero and negative offsets are ridiculous. Even for the Aggressive Thread.
Here's an awesome thread that's loaded with links on the effects of wheel sizes. You may enjoy some of these. They may even help you decide whether or not the wheels you're looking at are the best for you. Effects of Wheel Size/Weight on Vehicle Performance
Tires
The most common tire size run on MSF is probably 225/40 or 235/40 for aftermarket wheels. Some have run as wide as 255/40 with wheels wide enough for them. For stock wheels, 225s are ok. 235s are a bit wide for the 7" wide stockers but it has been done. There's plenty of wheel width/tire width charts online for you to see if a tire size is ok for your wheel. Fender rolling will likely be necessary for anything wider than 225/40. Especially if your car is lowered at all. But remember, once you start adding power, 225s and 235s just aren't going to get you any traction. At least for you MS3 guys.
As for brands, that's a personal preference. Feel free to discuss your experiences with what you've run. How did they grip, corner? Perform in wet conditions? How long did they last? Did they rub? Etc.
Spacers
Some people simply want more of a flush look without having to buy a whole new set of wheels. Or they have a set of wheels in mind that they like, but they'll sit too close to the strut to run safely. Spacers are the answer for that. Lots of people - domestics, imports, trucks, even offroaders have taken advantage of spacers.
For our cars, you want to get hubcentric spacers. This simply means the spacer centers itself on the hub rather than by the studs. Our hub bore is 67.1mm. There's 2 types of spacers to consider now. Both can be seen in the following pic.
The thinner ones on the bottom are basic spacers - no studs in them. They can be purchased in virtually any width. You typically don't need to install extended studs for anything 5mm or less. Some say up to 8mm is fine, but imho that's pushing it. You want your lugnut to be firmly secure on your stud, and with an 8mm spacer, you may not get enough threading. For anything larger than 5mm (10-15m are common, up to 25mm or thicker) you will need to install extended studs.
The ones on the top have studs built in them. These are typically 15mm or wider. This allows you to run a wide spacer without needing to install extended studs. You bolt this spacer on your hub, then trim your factory studs down with an angle grinder or some cut off tool. The studs can't stick out any further than the spacer or your wheel will not sit properly.
Post up your pics with wheels and specs listed, lowered or not, if you rub and if you rolled fenders or not.
Here is information pertaining to wider wheels and the amount of "poke" they will have compared to a stock setup
Gen 1
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
Speed6
18x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
18x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
18x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
18x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
17x8 et50 (14.7mm more poke than stock)
17x8.5 et45 (26.1mm more poke than stock)
17x9 et40 (37.4mm more poke than stock)
17x9.5 et33 (50.8mm more poke than stock)
Last edited:
@JohnnyTightlips thank you so much for the info!!
Looking at a wide street tire combo
18x9.5 +33/+35 offset with a set of 255/40R18s square setup for my speed 6, I plugged it into the fitment guides (amazing btw!!) and it looks like it’ll fit. Though in real life I realize that a fender roll would be necessary.... Or is this wishful thinking? Might have to drop to a 17”? Car will have coil overs (eventually) and will see assorted track use. I just realize that the 17s will be lighter as well. Has anyone tried this combo?
Apologizes if this is in the wrong section!
~Ian
Looking at a wide street tire combo
18x9.5 +33/+35 offset with a set of 255/40R18s square setup for my speed 6, I plugged it into the fitment guides (amazing btw!!) and it looks like it’ll fit. Though in real life I realize that a fender roll would be necessary.... Or is this wishful thinking? Might have to drop to a 17”? Car will have coil overs (eventually) and will see assorted track use. I just realize that the 17s will be lighter as well. Has anyone tried this combo?
Apologizes if this is in the wrong section!
~Ian
Last edited:
IT Gnome
Greenie N00B Member
I'm planning a setup for autocross for my 2006 MS6. The car has a stock suspension except for Eibach Prokit springs. The fenders are rolled but not pulled. I have a set of old Konig 18x8+46 wheels that came with the car. I've found a set of Rota SVN 18x8.5+48. I see that a lot of people like Rota but I don't have any experience with them. Will they hold up to autocross? How heavy are they? Will an 18x8.5+48 with a 245/40R18 fit a MS6? Other suggestions are always welcome.
Rota isn't actually a bad company. People think they are knock off wheels which they kind of are but copyright laws say there has to be at least a 20% difference in design for it to not be considered a violation so they design wheels that look similar but are in fact different than the other "name brand" wheels.
There are horror stories of Rotas wheels which are actually horror stories of knock off Rotas made which cheaper materials. Rota wheels are made at some of the same factories in the Philippines as other wheels are and go through the same testing practices.
Granted you get what you pay for when you buy a set of Rays or Advans etc. But you're gonna pay a good price for a really good wheel. If you are going to daily the car and drive on crappy roads then buy a cheaper wheel. If it is strictly performance oriented where every second counts then buy a higher quality. Rotas will be ok for most usage.
As for comparison on the wheels you're looking at go to this site and put in the information. It will show you the difference in the wheel and help calculate the space changes inside the wheel well. After that it is up to you to measure your wheel area and suspension to determine the right fit
https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
