Are you sitting comfortably? build

The job of replacing the VVT is not a difficult undertaking. There are a lot of parts to remove to make access. I find Mazdas easy to work on, there always seems to be a way to get a tool in to do the job, but you cant be afraid to remove parts to get at what you want to work on. This is very apparent during the VVT process. I think the daunting part is the result if you dont hit all the marks 100%... maintaining TDC alignment & cleanliness during assembly are the key takeaways. If you can sequentially lay everything out in the order you removed or label/bag/record parts & fasteners.
We have some excellent resources by members on this forum that walk through the process.
the Roku way This is the pinnacle thread for replacing the VVT. Read through the entire thread a few times to familiarize yourself. Read SeeMeGovan's post thoroughly as well as he elaborates on some aspects.
Maximum Carnage JT has a great thread with lots of pics and info about assembling the VVT during engine build. I referenced this thread too.
I would suggest you donate and become a metal member. For a small fee this opens up access to Factory service manuals among other forum advantages.
This is a good community of people who are very invested in helping keep this unique aging platform alive. Dont be afraid to seek advice here, but heed the advice.
 
I ran into this problem before...The turbine meter in the AEM WMI monitor gauge deformed. Originally I mounted it in the engine bay and thought perhaps the heat was the culprit. I purchased a new one 4 years back and mounted it right off the pump in the front left behind the fog lamp (ambient temps). Same result. Once it is skewed, the turbine cant rotate and wont send signal to the gauge causing a no flow alarm. Also to add insult, the sensor is discontinued as is the gauge kit (I wonder why o_O). Contacted the sensor manufacturer who supplied AEM the original sensors and they suggested an updated product part number with a cost of $300...
Ch-ya, not!
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The sensor runs on a 5V reference so I Amazon-ed myself a nondescript stainless turbine meter for $40...
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Originally I had plans to run the WMI failsafe with a Guardian Angel. However in the end, Im happy just having the flow gauge to monitor. If I cant find a suitable low cost repair for this setup, I will have to forgo the gauge. This makes WMI about as reliable as the rhythm method.
All aside, It has been nice to get the car out and put some miles down.
 
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I really appreciate the care and attention to detail you've given to this speed6 over time. Ended up reading through the whole thread, sounds like a dream to take such care of a car over time.
Enki said:
Why not run a pressure sensor instead?
Click to expand...
I believe measuring actual flow is safer because you ensure you're getting the correct amount of methanol. A partially clogged line or nozzle will still have pressure, but a flow meter would detect this failure due to reduced flow. Granted, I imagine pressure would increase in that condition, so you could potentially add an over pressure trip, but a flow sensor would be more reliable and gives you a better idea of what's happening.

Meth injection scares me anyways, multiple points of failure in a WMI system aside. Spraying at the TB with the stock intake mani's terrible flow balance seems far from ideal to me.
 
This is why you run mostly water (30% meth or lower) and don't tune for it.

As for clogs, etc, fair enough. If you're running pre-TB WMI though, you could use the MAP temp sensor to view a lack of flow, and adjust temp tables in the tune to drop load past what the temp would be with meth not flowing.
 
Sloww pretty much covered it, you can have pressure and low flow. Pressure requirements also change with boost levels in the intake pipe. I am looking for a replacement for what was originally in the trinket-y AEM monitor kit. I can set high and low flow parameter alarms with the gauge which would work with a Guardian Angel to pull boost. I however have decided to forgo the GA. But the gauge is still nice to monitor injection and will flash if alarm threshold broken.

Mazdasloww3 said:
...Meth injection scares me anyways, multiple points of failure in a WMI system aside. Spraying at the TB with the stock intake mani's terrible flow balance seems far from ideal to me.
Click to expand...

The AEM controller and pump seem to be pretty decent components. I have also stainless hard lined the whole system and used flare fittings for reliability. The WMI was chosen because of the poor flow and design of both the intake and exhaust manifolds helping to cushion the cylinder environment. I also use it to augment my desire to remain TMIC.

Enki said:
This is why you run mostly water (30% meth or lower) and don't tune for it.

As for clogs, etc, fair enough. If you're running pre-TB WMI though, you could use the MAP temp sensor to view a lack of flow, and adjust temp tables in the tune to drop load past what the temp would be with meth not flowing.
Click to expand...

As for right now, I am not running the system to augment fueling. I am still K04. I will run the WMI as a safety net once I drop in an S4 albeit at lowered performance. The future goal is to find a viable solution to PI with TMIC...However this is where I am currently.
 
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Enki said:
Why not run a pressure sensor instead?
Click to expand...

I believe the gauge is looking for a signal from a Hall effect or magnetic sensor in the form of a square tooth signal or oscillation. A pressure sensor would be a variable voltage signal. This is a assumption as I am not an engineer...just a geek.
 
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