Are you sitting comfortably? build

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

The job of replacing the VVT is not a difficult undertaking. There are a lot of parts to remove to make access. I find Mazdas easy to work on, there always seems to be a way to get a tool in to do the job, but you cant be afraid to remove parts to get at what you want to work on. This is very apparent during the VVT process. I think the daunting part is the result if you dont hit all the marks 100%... maintaining TDC alignment & cleanliness during assembly are the key takeaways. If you can sequentially lay everything out in the order you removed or label/bag/record parts & fasteners.
We have some excellent resources by members on this forum that walk through the process.
the Roku way This is the pinnacle thread for replacing the VVT. Read through the entire thread a few times to familiarize yourself. Read SeeMeGovan's post thoroughly as well as he elaborates on some aspects.
Maximum Carnage JT has a great thread with lots of pics and info about assembling the VVT during engine build. I referenced this thread too.
I would suggest you donate and become a metal member. For a small fee this opens up access to Factory service manuals among other forum advantages.
This is a good community of people who are very invested in helping keep this unique aging platform alive. Dont be afraid to seek advice here, but heed the advice.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

I ran into this problem before...The turbine meter in the AEM WMI monitor gauge deformed. Originally I mounted it in the engine bay and thought perhaps the heat was the culprit. I purchased a new one 4 years back and mounted it right off the pump in the front left behind the fog lamp (ambient temps). Same result. Once it is skewed, the turbine cant rotate and wont send signal to the gauge causing a no flow alarm. Also to add insult, the sensor is discontinued as is the gauge kit (I wonder why ). Contacted the sensor manufacturer who supplied AEM the original sensors and they suggested an updated product part number with a cost of $300...
Ch-ya, not!

The sensor runs on a 5V reference so I Amazon-ed myself a nondescript stainless turbine meter for $40...

Originally I had plans to run the WMI failsafe with a Guardian Angel. However in the end, Im happy just having the flow gauge to monitor. If I cant find a suitable low cost repair for this setup, I will have to forgo the gauge. This makes WMI about as reliable as the rhythm method.
All aside, It has been nice to get the car out and put some miles down.

 

[Enki]

Why not run a pressure sensor instead?

 

[Mazdasloww3]

I really appreciate the care and attention to detail you've given to this speed6 over time. Ended up reading through the whole thread, sounds like a dream to take such care of a car over time.

Why not run a pressure sensor instead?

I believe measuring actual flow is safer because you ensure you're getting the correct amount of methanol. A partially clogged line or nozzle will still have pressure, but a flow meter would detect this failure due to reduced flow. Granted, I imagine pressure would increase in that condition, so you could potentially add an over pressure trip, but a flow sensor would be more reliable and gives you a better idea of what's happening.

Meth injection scares me anyways, multiple points of failure in a WMI system aside. Spraying at the TB with the stock intake mani's terrible flow balance seems far from ideal to me.

 

[Enki]

This is why you run mostly water (30% meth or lower) and don't tune for it.

As for clogs, etc, fair enough. If you're running pre-TB WMI though, you could use the MAP temp sensor to view a lack of flow, and adjust temp tables in the tune to drop load past what the temp would be with meth not flowing.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Sloww pretty much covered it, you can have pressure and low flow. Pressure requirements also change with boost levels in the intake pipe. I am looking for a replacement for what was originally in the trinket-y AEM monitor kit. I can set high and low flow parameter alarms with the gauge which would work with a Guardian Angel to pull boost. I however have decided to forgo the GA. But the gauge is still nice to monitor injection and will flash if alarm threshold broken.

...Meth injection scares me anyways, multiple points of failure in a WMI system aside. Spraying at the TB with the stock intake mani's terrible flow balance seems far from ideal to me.

The AEM controller and pump seem to be pretty decent components. I have also stainless hard lined the whole system and used flare fittings for reliability. The WMI was chosen because of the poor flow and design of both the intake and exhaust manifolds helping to cushion the cylinder environment. I also use it to augment my desire to remain TMIC.

This is why you run mostly water (30% meth or lower) and don't tune for it.

As for clogs, etc, fair enough. If you're running pre-TB WMI though, you could use the MAP temp sensor to view a lack of flow, and adjust temp tables in the tune to drop load past what the temp would be with meth not flowing.

As for right now, I am not running the system to augment fueling. I am still K04. I will run the WMI as a safety net once I drop in an S4 albeit at lowered performance. The future goal is to find a viable solution to PI with TMIC...However this is where I am currently.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Why not run a pressure sensor instead?

I believe the gauge is looking for a signal from a Hall effect or magnetic sensor in the form of a square tooth signal or oscillation. A pressure sensor would be a variable voltage signal. This is a assumption as I am not an engineer...just a geek.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

I will be putting the car away for winter soon. So its time for final detailing and care. Started with the interior work, cleaning and protecting. The drivers footwell got shampooed and the seats got some needed rejuvenating and cleaning. I love the smell of a cleaned interior.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Finally got some time to take a swing at the car and got motivated to start the to-do list. Cruise in season has started and It would be nice to get it out to a few. Also, the local car show is in August and Id like to enter the car.

Time for a new rear CV shaft. I purchased DSS axles. I already have a Whiteline RSB...so, fun!

First step was to modify the left swaybar bushing to increase clearance in the area. I welded up the frame bolt slots and cut a new slot perpendicular in hopes of maintaining strength of the bushing retainer bracket.
From this...(Right side) To this...(Left side)

I slipped the DSS shafts in and man is it tight. There was a lot of putting parts in, pulling them out, thinking and swearing. Its almost impossible.

How close is too close?...

To finish up the work I need to re fill the diff & pto and torque the suspension and axles. Then off for a new windshield and some PDR.

 

[Crazycanadian]

That is soooo tight.. When things spin and shift there's little to no room... I'd bet on that sway bar bracket breaking

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

That is soooo tight.. When things spin and shift there's little to no room... I'd bet on that sway bar bracket breaking

I think Im going to switch back to the OEM sway bar. Last night I tried to search out sway bar bushings with a lower profile, to no avail.
Eventually I will pull the subframe for a suspension refresh with new bushings. Perhaps I will re-engineer for more clearance and reinstall the Whiteline.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Big 'ol update.
Pulled the Whiteline bar (so not fun) and swapped in my OE bar. Gained a couple millimeters but surprisingly Id say the DSS still really dont fit.
Again on the left side, I cut the ear off the OE bushing VanGogh style, ground and filed the bracket down and offset the bracket all to maximize space.
Thankfully I have a Cp-e rear diff mount. The OE mount would have +4mm movement for sure.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Proof of life update!! Took some time out of my summer 2-do list. It has been a slow process getting this car back to a usable state. Regretably I missed getting the car prepped for the local car show this summer. I managed to shake out about 5-6mm of clearance with the left DSS axle. Waiting on Prothane lo-pro swaybar mounts in both OEM and Whiteline diameters for a permanent fix in the future.
Nevertheless, I got the car out, re-aligned and put 150 easy miles on it in the last few days. Pretty much driving to chip stands for lunch.
Now the plan is to get some miles put down and get a few fresh tanks of fuel through it. Gonna hit a few cruise-in nights too. I will still be working on the list of issues going forward. But she lives!!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Had the White Rabbit out again to day. Made a run the Princess auto (Canadian Harbor Freight) and again some Poutine for lunch. Last night I washed up and this am re-blacked some plastics. Im trying CarPro's Pearl water based VRP. So far Im impressed. Unlike silicone based products, with Pearl you use a fraction to bring back a clean black. Not as much shine, but Im hoping less stuff stuck in the goop too. Looks good on the tires and I applied it to the front lower grill too. Still using my goto AutoGlym trim gel on Mirror mounts fog light bezels and rear lower panel.


Took the car up to 20psi today on a long hill climb. Man it still cooks.
I seem to have a vibration/resonance at 2000-1500 rpm on decel, pretty much any gear but more pronounced with lower gears. Fells like running on rumble strips and causes the rear package tray to clatter quite a bit. Once or twice on accel too, but its hard to recreate while accelerating. Dosent happen with e-brake 1 click or clutch in, so Im assuming its manifested with load. I replaced the passenger motor mount with an aftermarket OEM style when I did the VVT. Im going to loosen & retighten all the mounts. If I cant shake this out Ill drop in some Damond left and right mounts.
Shes on the hoist tonight so I can inspect underneath tomorrow and swap out some coolant.

 

[Crazycanadian]

Could be an axle issue

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

I surely hope not, both rears are brand new DSS units with no miles. The front left only has 2000 mi since reman and the front made no noise before replacing the VVT and installing the rear DSS shafts.
There also are no other issues related all the way up to 70-80 mph. I changed the rear CVs because of a hi speed vibe with the OEM shafts.
If it were an axle issue, would it not manifest with a relation to road speed? This is purely engine rpm regardless of gear or road speed.
Mazda has a different part number and a grossly higher price for the PMM on the MS6. Although the parts look the same, perhaps the NAPA unit is not up to the task. It was a need now purchase, the old unit was trashed.

 

[Crazycanadian]

I surely hope not, both rears are brand new DSS units with no miles. The front left only has 2000 mi since reman and the front made no noise before replacing the VVT and installing the rear DSS shafts.
There also are no other issues related all the way up to 70-80 mph. I changed the rear CVs because of a hi speed vibe with the OEM shafts.
If it were an axle issue, would it not manifest with a relation to road speed? This is purely engine rpm regardless of gear or road speed.
Mazda has a different part number and a grossly higher price for the PMM on the MS6. Although the parts look the same, perhaps the NAPA unit is not up to the task. It was a need now purchase, the old unit was trashed.

1500-2000 in any gear suggest it's not the axles. How does the motor feel if you just hold it free reving in those ranges?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Free rev the engine nets nothing out of the ordinary for a larger displacement 4cyl. Up at 3000 you can feel the engine is spinning faster, I wouldnt call it vibrating and certainly no resonance through the chassis.
I took a good visual look at the PMM, it looks as it should, Also looked at the Dog bone mount, same - all good. Tomorrow I am going to pull the battery and look into the factory installed 20 years ago TMM. Its a shot in the dark, but IM curious to the idea that the new PMM and the Cp-e dogbone mount are adding additional stress on the 20 year old TMM. Considering a DM TMM and PMM if I decide to upgrade as it was already on my rebuild list.

 

[Crazycanadian]

Free rev the engine nets nothing out of the ordinary for a larger displacement 4cyl. Up at 3000 you can feel the engine is spinning faster, I wouldnt call it vibrating and certainly no resonance through the chassis.
I took a good visual look at the PMM, it looks as it should, Also looked at the Dog bone mount, same - all good. Tomorrow I am going to pull the battery and look into the factory installed 20 years ago TMM. Its a shot in the dark, but IM curious to the idea that the new PMM and the Cp-e dogbone mount are adding additional stress on the 20 year old TMM. Considering a DM TMM and PMM if I decide to upgrade as it was already on my rebuild list.

There's a good chance it's sagging and causing the mount to hit it's hard stops sending the engine harmonics through the chassis. When you check it, jack up the transmission and watch the mount move. With a standard it's hard to put torque on the mounts to simulate what's going on while driving.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Thats what Im hoping, fingers crossed. Might get time tomorrow to dig into it but today I had 2 other cars to take care of. I have played around enough to become pretty good at getting it to manifest under acceleration now too. I can make it happen and the resonance will continue while the revs hang for a second but I think I can feel the driveline has unloaded. It all makes sense in my feable brain, or Im justifying to myself buying cool parts