Are you sitting comfortably? build

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Car is out today. Took it for alignment after clipping the springs and rocking things around getting the RSB installed. Tech told me the adjustment cams are getting a little hard to manipulate. The bushings are getting old...I hope it all holds out a couple more years when i plan to rebuild the underpinnings. The car drives nicely, but not as tight as the last few times I had them align the car. The last 2 alignments they were able to dial the car in to the exact numbers I requested. I guess she is 16 years old now!
Before Coil Clipping...

After coil clipping (1 round off top of rear coils)...much better!!

Some more candy shots...eyelids and yellow LED fogs


I didnt accomplish center caps for the rims and I am going to replace both front CV shafts shortly due to some vibes on the highway. Otherwise, I am stoked to get some miles burnt hopefully get a topmount upgrade in the process too.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Car is looking super clean man! Keep chipping away at it cuz it's looking great

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

From June last year...

So far, the tune is good. I do find that when I depress the clutch on moderate acceleration at about 3-4000 RPM, the power unloads really harsh. I had selected my FFS at 3500, so i think that might be the reason for that issue. Dont know why I even bothered setting FFS, I dont use that feature. I will probably adjust after the process is complete...

Well, I found the culprit. I recently switched out my Forge for the stock BPV. All smooth shifting now. I clean and grease my Forge at the start of every season. But I am thinking it could use some new o-rings, or is just worn from age.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Sold my 06 Impreza winter car today. 5 hours from listing to sale, lol. Going next weekend to look at a replacement.
Achievement unlocked...just dropped quid on a Corksport TMIC to get my tune to Stage 3. Should be in in about 3-4 weeks.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

From June last year...

Well, I found the culprit. I recently switched out my Forge for the stock BPV. All smooth shifting now. I clean and grease my Forge at the start of every season. But I am thinking it could use some new o-rings, or is just worn from age.

Did you have the forge going vta? If you're going to tune and like the sound of vta then just run it like that once you start tuning. They will adjust for it and it won't have those issues you were experiencing

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Did you have the forge going vta? If you're going to tune and like the sound of vta then just run it like that once you start tuning. They will adjust for it and it won't have those issues you were experiencing

I was running recirc but I bought it used almost 10 years ago now. All Ive ever done was wipe it clean and relube it. Im going to find replacement o-rings as it dosent have any scoring or damage on the piston or bore. Im not stuck on the sound and I dont push enough psi to even need it, price was right...that was all. I might just run the OEM for a while.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Mayday, Mayday, Man Down!!!

It seems the left front axle has given up. Vibes from 40 to 55mph are too much to bear. So I went and picked up an aftermarket shaft listed for 06-07 MS6. Apparently not so. I wanted any shaft that would get me through 3 more years till my planned rebuild. However comparing the two I can tell the shaft is most likely for a NA 2.3 MZ6. Longer & thinner shaft, smaller trans side seal and outer axle nut threads too small.

Interestingly enough, the numbers on the end of the box are as follows...
NCV47567 -- GSP has listed as 06-07 MS6 left front axle...NOT!!!
A1# 60-8190 -- This is Cardone's part number for their listing of 06-07 MS6 left front axle
Wonh# MZ8167 -- This is Tracmotive's part number for their listing of 06-07 MS6 left front axle
EMPI# 80-3966 -- Volkswagon parts??
FVP premium axle from RockAuto also no fitment
Best guess that none of those brands would be the proper part. Its been 15+years and these companies still cant get it right?

On stands for some final checks and maintenance.
View attachment 22123 View attachment 22124
My right front brake has been annoying me lately. Although there seems to be no issue when driving, it appears the right front is dragging just a touch. I experience no pulling or noise. The only sign...that wheel builds noticeably more brake dust. The caliper piston moves in and out of the bore smoothly and the pins are always well greased. So today I replaced the flex line incase the inner liner had collapsed.
View attachment 22126 View attachment 22127
Then my son helped me bleed the whole system old school style. Now running Dot4. My old fluid was still really clean but now the pedal is dead solid and probably like when I bought the car 10 years ago.

On a high note, the replacement of the right front flex line has cured the heavy brake dust buildup I was experiencing. Happy about that.

Edit: add CV vendor info

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

I have replaced the CV with a rebuild shaft through a side connection from friend who owns the local NAPA dealer. Took 10 days turn around total. Shaft is smooth and its nice to have the car back out after 2 weeks. Thread with more info...<here>.

Also, just before the car was up on stands, I was visited by the electrical gremlin fairy. I am hoping I have that one licked with a cleaning of the ground point just below the engine bay distribution box. Thread with more info...<here>.

All is good so far, till the next issue. My plans to overhaul the chassis in 2025 today are being dictated earlier by a cantankerous teenage car. I am also trying to find a replacement to daily (both for winter and when the car gets parked in 2025), perhaps I sense a bit of sibling rivalry in the family.

 

[yeet123]

Hell yeah dude!! Your attention to detail & discipline literally blows my mind lol - keep chugging!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Funny story...So this morning on the way to work just as I was arriving in the parking lot the CEL lit up. Great!!! I had the Accessport already plugged in watching other info. Code P0118 - Coolant temp circuit high voltage. Accessport reads hot engine temp @ -35-deg, lol. WTF!!?! This has been the roughest summer launch in 10 years. Anyways, Irony abounds. I spent all day paranoid about what could be wrong, bought a ECT sensor incase mine bought the farm. Before I left work I checked the levels and poked around the ECT sensor. Pushed on the connector and heard a click. Well problem solved, no CEL, temps normal, car drove home perfect.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

So far the summer has been decent and the car has been running good. Drained the Damond OCC...Im impressed. Just oil, not tons, but that would all be in my intake track! Compared that to my old setup that would capture mostly condensation.

My CS intercooler arrived. Stoked, but switching that out and retune...I might wait till next season to hit that up.
Due to my last CV shaft procurement debauchery taking 2 weeks and a few other issues at times, Ive decided relying solely on a 16+ year old unique limited time production car requires a better contingency plan. I picked up this gently used turd to use as my daily so that the Speed6 can become a sunny day and weekend cruiser. My son is also in process of getting his license so he will be able to use it to learn manual. The car was sold and serviced at a Ford dealer I once worked for. I have the service records, the only previous owner did their diligent deed of properly maintaining a car, even trans oil changes. Car comes with a host of new parts, brakes, struts, battery, 4 new A/S tires, 4 winter tires...she good to go!

My daughter coined the nickname for the car...Ford Fiesta...the "F-bomb". It stuck. Decal being made!
With this as my daily, at 40mpg I will save enough money in fuel to pay for the insurance and fuel in the Speed6 for the 6 months of summer. 2 cars for the same quid, only this one had no balls and handles like shit...for now, LOL.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

So, its been a few hours I guess...But Im getting the itch to get going like I do every year about this time. In a couple weeks I will be moving to the new place and will have to sort out all our belongings and sort out my non existent garage situation(ugh, moving). I will effectively be Garageless (think Homeless) pushing my belonging from place to place in a shopping cart as situations change...that is where Im at mentally at least.

Maybe its the itch to get the car ready, maybe retail therapy but I purchased a few parts to get me going and I still have some things to tie up...

1. Install the CS TMIC
2. Install recently purchased GFB hybrid BPV & GS EBCS plus a better WMI solenoid
3. Adjust tune, still tuned with Stratified for the time being

I would like to replace my Rt Rr CV shaft, but without a proper garage to work in I dont relish the idea of shipping the shaft off for a few weeks to get rebuilt with the car blowing in the wind. The shaft is still ok, just showing age, so I will have to go easy on the old girl.

Luckily as soon as my new garage is built, I will be able to jump right into the chassis rebuild I was originally planning for 2025. But over the 1-2 years I will be slowly stocking up on the parts needed to accomplish...

1. Repaint underside floor & trunk pans & scrutinize every component going back on
2. Suspension rebuild, including Bilsteins, Russian PU bushings, sandblast & repaint subframes & components
3. Brake rebuild, including rotors/pads, SS flexlines, Damond bushings, sandblast & repaint components
4. Engine refresh, including VVT redo, injector seals and clean, new mounts, spin-on filter conversion
5. a couple other small incidentals, perhaps xfer bearing caps, new ign coils, 500hp rear CVs, new windshield

Along with this I will be able to add a turbo, 3.5" intake & catted DP and see how close to 400 whp I am. Shes an old girl now and a refresh is in order before I push things too far and end up with a worn out/broken project. I cant complain, I have been able to enjoy this car for a long time and not diverting funds to keeping it running however the maintenance fairy has caught up, LOL.

 

[Connors2k]

Just found your thread now, and I don’t think I’ve seen a Canadian speed6 this nice. Looks like a super clean car and will be following along to see your progress!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Ive done absolutely nothing with the Speed6 except carry all the fun goodies around in the trunk. The car gets driven about once a week to work and back just so it dosent sit. The lack of garage has severely decompressed my energy to invest time. I feel like a such a sloth and looking at the car (dirty and ashamed...the car, not me) I just keep telling myself its only time passing.
So in the meantime, about a year ago I purchased the "F-bomb". It has served me well and reliably. I havent done much beyond service and a couple repairs, very respectable for a car with 200oook/125ooomi. Im not looking to offload it, however with my son about to need a car for co-op schooling and PT jobs I am adding to the stable again
My brother no longer needs one of his pickups from his business. Coming down the line is a very nice condition 2014 F150 XL Supercab V6/4x4.
Its a work truck, so Rubber floor mat, AM/FM radio and A/C, Armstrong windows and locks. Im probably going to miss my cruise control most. Should make a good farm truck. At 323oook/200ooomi (highway) it drives like it has half the miles. At a cool $5k, I couldnt pass. Ive wanted a pickup again for years. I actually want my old one back, 86 F150 with a 300 I6 and NP435 4spd (with the bo-low)...but they dont make new old trucks anymore.

Like the thread title, I hope "you are sitting comfortably" this build is taking the scenic route!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Ive been busy working on the new garage and havent touched the Speed6. But that hasnt stopped me from squirreling the parts away. Took advantage of the Christmas spirit in me and bought myself a new intake to prepare for the future.

I dont technically need a 4" intake, 3.5" would have been fine. But it is such a clean piece and I think despite its girth will fit well with my low key/sleeper look. Matte wrinkle black, like the OEM plastics, and the undermount MAF.
I guess CS was in the spirit too, they included a little box with short shifter, weight & shifter bushings...Thanks guys & Merry Christmas!!!
Next up, Catted DP & S4.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Well, the good news is I have coming to me a 3bar MAP and adapter harness from CWT. I also have a Corksport group51 battery tray ordered to facilitate install of the 4" intake still in its box in the trunk. From this point I could add an S4 and a tune from PD, but I should probably get a catted DP yet.
Now for the bad...
I fired up the car to make room in the garage to do oil change, tire rotate & front brakes on my wifes CX5. When I started it I got the famous "startup death rattle". Yup, I am at 97k, VVT is in my list for my rebuild in 2025. Unfortunately it appears that I will not be pulling the car out this summer. There were a couple times I thought it sounded like slack chain as I started the car over the last year, but this time was unmistakable. Considering my engine still pulls strong and and has no other issues, Im going to carry on with my plan.
I am still busy with getting my new garage set up, so the car will have to get mothballed.

My question is...If I can get the oil pressure up by using the "clear flooded engine" mode or disconnecting the ground wire @ the hpfp, would I be able to get the car fired up for moving it about the property? I just dont have a better place to park it than in my garage, at least until I get the hoist in and hooked up. Then I can put it in the air and use the space under if needed.

 

[Crazycanadian]

Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Well, the good news is I have coming to me a 3bar MAP and adapter harness from CWT. I also have a Corksport group51 battery tray ordered to facilitate install of the 4" intake still in its box in the trunk. From this point I could add an S4 and a tune from PD, but I should probably get a catted DP yet.
Now for the bad...
I fired up the car to make room in the garage to do oil change, tire rotate & front brakes on my wifes CX5. When I started it I got the famous "startup death rattle". Yup, I am at 97k, VVT is in my list for my rebuild in 2025. Unfortunately it appears that I will not be pulling the car out this summer. There were a couple times I thought it sounded like slack chain as I started the car over the last year, but this time was unmistakable. Considering my engine still pulls strong and and has no other issues, Im going to carry on with my plan.
I am still busy with getting my new garage set up, so the car will have to get mothballed.

My question is...If I can get the oil pressure up by using the "clear flooded engine" mode or disconnecting the ground wire @ the hpfp, would I be able to get the car fired up for moving it about the property? I just dont have a better place to park it than in my garage, at least until I get the hoist in and hooked up. Then I can put it in the air and use the space under if needed.

You aren't likely to cause damage starting it to move it a couple times... Chain rattle, broken VVT is such a common problem and often gets driven on for months by people who don't understand whats going on.. I've dealt with multiple cars, multiple motors with broken VVT actuators/worn out chains.. I wouldn't hesitate to fire the car up, move it and park it as needed...

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Im in precautionary mode so...
Today I had to pull the car out of the garage so I can install my hoist. I jumped the starter relay in the fuse box to build oil pressure. I could hear the VVT actuator with every revolution *clack-clack-clack* for about 10 sec, then it went quiet. I continued to crank for another 10 sec. I let the car sit for about 10 min and jumped the relay again for about 10 sec. Then started like a champ, no rattle. I guess this is my goto procedure for moving the car. It took it for a little drive today just to get the fluids moving and shift through a few gears...I miss the car already.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

As a part of my list of things to do on my holidays this year I chose to repair the VVT. I opted to purchase the OEM upgraded kit from CW Turbochargers. Then I added ARP cam & crank bolts and a Cometic timing cover gasket.

Generally speaking everything went as planned. I assembled the parts using "ARP Ultra-torq" where required but was concerned I had contaminated the cam friction washers. When I pulled the sprockets off I could see a small film of Ultra-torq and decided to purchase replacement washers and adjust my process. I applied the Ultra-torq to the face of the bolt washer but didnt apply any to the bolt threads until after the bolt was through the sprocket and the friction washer had been "threaded down" the bolt.
When I installed the timing cover, The Cometic gasket was missing a hole for the #1 bolt. But it appears the hole is not there in pictures on the web either. I had to punch a hole there and applied some RTV to that area. Mildly annoying.

I purchased replacement cam cover bolts (LFBL-10-237) ahead of the job however I feel they were not required. I did not want to have the engine partially assembled waiting on these bolts. The contention here was the price quoted by my local dealer who is setting their own list prices. Parts guy quoted me $19.99/bolt, Mazda's MSRP is $13.57. I ended up purchasing them from another dealer 4 hours away for $10.06 each, still cheaper after paying shipping.
I also replaced the oil pump chain guide, despite everything else looking fine it looked a bit knarly to me...

When I called my local dealer to purchase the extra friction washers and a replacement oil chain guide he quoted the inflated prices. I informed him what Mazda's MSRP prices were for those parts and he quickly capitulated, seemed almost like I had uncovered his scam. Needless to say, I will be looking elsewhere for my parts.
In wrapping up the job I replaced the PMM with an aftermarket...it was time for a new one.
After everything was buttoned up, I primed the fuel pump a few key cycles and primed the engine a few times by jumping the starter relay.
The car fired up without a single hiccup and ran perfectly. After a bit of a warm up, I drove it around the property about 6 times to get everything cycling again. I need to reinstall the hood and apply the road coverages before I can road test.
I was happy to see the inside of the engine really clean, especially the sump area and around the top end. Inspecting the parts that came out, there was chain stretch and the VVT actuator was off home position slightly, but nothing much out of the ordinary.

Early on, I had issues trying to get the timing plate into the cam slots. Between rocking the cams and considering the slop in the chain, it appeared to me that the engine was possibly not 100% in time. I cant confirm for sure that anything had slipped slightly but it didnt appear the engine had been previously been cracked open. Also there is no record of Mazda doing a related repair.

However in the end I figured if the whole engine is properly timed going forward all will be copacetic. I purchased the tool to hold the crank pulley static during the ARP torquing process, so I covered all the bases and in the end the CKPS is not in the same place as originally...things that make you go Hmmm!

 

[swaggyT]

Love this build! Just spent way more time reading this thread than I intended... Fellow ontarian here, just got a MS6 with 175k km, took a bit for me to diagnose/identify but I also have the VVT rattle on startup. How difficult would you rate this job for a DIY winter project? Did some auto classes in highschool, so I'm not completely clueless but it's also been a while so I'm at the point where I don't know what I don't know