Best Engine Oil - All Mod Levels

  • Thread starter Thread starter Enki
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dudemancool1904 said:
It’s made by Warren, same stuff as Kirkland and Supertech. Decent stuff, cheaper at Costco, they just had 12 quarts for $20 on sale.
Click to expand...
Cool, point of this thread is to take used oil analysis in the speed engines and compare it to others. Someone wants to try it cool, but until we start seeing UOA for the engine in this specific thread nothing's gonna change. For example if want to discuss a new oil to market? Cool let's create a fresh thread for that gather data then bring it back here.
 
I have been running Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40, which has an API SP and ACEA B3/C4 rating.

To be honest, I just assumed it was the Pennzoil a lot of people recommended.

It does not have the Dexos certification, but I don't see this oil harming anything on my car (I hope). I should keep my eyes open more when purchasing because I assumed it was the normal Pennzoil Platinum...I never see Pennzoil Ultra Platinum around here in 5w40.

Anyone run the Euro Platinum blend in their cars?
 
I found a VOA for Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 on BITOG:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pp-euro-5w40-sn-plus-formulation-voa.322868/

Based on the goals of this thread, this oil is good in calcium, sodium and zinc levels, but low on moly.

To clarify, I wasn't recommending the Platinum Euro...I was more concerned about the lack of Dexos 1 rating, so I was curious if there are any potential issues. It is formulated to resist LSPI conditions.

Before the pandemic, I had signed up for, but had not committed to sending oils into a lab, but I will so that i can post my own VOA and UOAs.
 
To anyone reading Rotella has been shown to NOT be one of the best oils, some of the reasons are given by these two gents, want to discuss Rotella further do it in the discussion thread as stated by the OP when he created this thread, or adding oils to this list:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...a-scratch-n-sniff-discussion.4603/#post-67081

Any further UOA of Rotella or that it should be the best will be deleted from this thread until UOA and discussion had happened in the above linked thread, I have already gone ahead and deleted the last one UOA of Rotella in this thread again try to avoid confusion as this thread is not the intended discussion thread.

There is also a dedicated UOA thread here:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/uoas-used-oil-reports-lets-see-em.5060/

See some of the rational quoted below. If you're wondering where that post has gone that they're responding too at time of writing it's been deleted because Rotella is not one of the best oils with the new tech out.

Easter Bunny said:
Rotella was always good for fuel dilution that's why it became the original go to oil. The downside is that it is terrible about creating black death in the hpfp.
Click to expand...

Sho said:
The lack of molybdenum in that to uoa disqualifies it from being in this thread as well. This thread is for best oil that helps prevent LSPI.
Click to expand...
 
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I recently ran the Kirkland 'Full Synthetic' 5w30 for a 3,150 mile change interval. I had to top-up with 600 - 700 ml at around 2,000 miles. I've attached the UOA (sorry @Awafrican, I'm dumb and don't know how to embed the image).

The wear numbers look decent; however, my car had really bad fuel dilution at 3.7%. A few factors that could contribute to this is very cold weather here and my car has been having issues with negative fuel trims, as in the car is always pulling fuel.
20220105_181943.jpg
This can be seen in my other thread:

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/negative-ltft-at-idle-kr-at-wot.12913/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Duey1083 said:
I recently ran the Kirkland 'Full Synthetic' 5w30 for a 3,150 mile change interval. I had to top-up with 600 - 700 ml at around 2,000 miles. I've attached the UOA (sorry @Awafrican, I'm dumb and don't know how to embed the image).

The wear numbers look decent; however, my car had really bad fuel dilution at 3.7%. A few factors that could contribute to this is very cold weather here and my car has been having issues with negative fuel trims, as in the car is always pulling fuel.
View attachment 21122
This can be seen in my other thread:

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/negative-ltft-at-idle-kr-at-wot.12913/
Click to expand...
My car has been adding fuel with the cold weather which is what I would expect it to do. As the air gets colder it gets more dense so you can fit more in a smaller space. More air needs more fuel to hit the magic AFR. It has been -2 F here though idk how cold it is where you are. My trims have been +11 at idle.
 
Duey1083 said:
I recently ran the Kirkland 'Full Synthetic' 5w30 for a 3,150 mile change interval. I had to top-up with 600 - 700 ml at around 2,000 miles. I've attached the UOA (sorry @Awafrican, I'm dumb and don't know how to embed the image).

The wear numbers look decent; however, my car had really bad fuel dilution at 3.7%. A few factors that could contribute to this is very cold weather here and my car has been having issues with negative fuel trims, as in the car is always pulling fuel.
View attachment 21122
This can be seen in my other thread:

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/negative-ltft-at-idle-kr-at-wot.12913/
Click to expand...


I'm convinced that fuel dilution within oil is not a property of the oil to watch out for, but a property of the engine to watch out for.
Perhaps the ethanol mix has something to do with dilution as well, as it certainly does with the HPFP black death phenomenon.

I'd say this is an ok oil (Calcium is a bit high tho), but I do prefer 40weights for our engines, as they run hotter than N/A.
 
alright alright alright I love me an oil thread. There's an engineer on the mustang threads. boosted gen3 coyote are similar-ish to disi in that they're high cylinder pressure engines that usually crack ringlands due to knock. This guy swears by euro oils, never seen dexos mentioned in the thread.

"The euro specs are the only specs that have a category and minimum requirements specifically for high performance engines (A3/B4). That said, I usually select the euro blend that uses a group 3+ or 4 base oil, which means either GTL or PAO"

"I do agree HTHS is a good metric for high performance oil, which is one reason I like the A3/B4 spec over any of the API specs. And while retention of HTHS might indicate a lower dose of VII and, thus, a higher quality base oil, I haven’t seen HTHS widely reported in UOA’s.
The problem with relying a typical oem is that their criteria and mine are different. They’re prioritizing cat life and fuel economy over engine failure prevention and wear"

"I’ve researched oil specifications quite a bit so I know exactly what it means and what I’m getting when I say I will only use ACEA A3/B4 in performance applications."

Anyone have some input on what he means exactly? Idk what all this base stuff means. His favorite oil is penz plat euro 5w40 for the price and availability, though he'd prefer 5w50.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/opinions-engine-oil-for-roush-stage-2-blower-5w50.163713/ Link to entire thread if anyone wants to read
 
High Temp High Shear
Basically how hard you can punish the oil and not have it break down on you. Lower numbers result in the oil pulling apart (less drag FROM the oil on surfaces) but reduces oil life.


RP 5-30 Dexos is apparently 3.1 cP.
https://www.royalpurple.com/wp-cont...-High-Performance-Motor-Oil-PDS-28Jun2021.pdf

"Typically, heavy-duty diesel engine lubricants have had a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5 cP."
https://360.lubrizol.com/2019/Why HTHS Viscosity Matters

"2.6 for 20 weight, 2.9 for 30 weight, as well as 0W-40, 5W-40 and 10W-40, 15W-40 as well as 50 and 60 weight oils have a minimum of 3.7. HDEO is generally a minimum of 3.7 and as high as 4.5, most European cars are 3.5, and 2.6 is considered the minimum level for decent wear protection." -Some rando on a Bob thread:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-is-hths.90798/post-1191909


Probably more out there if you're willing to dig.
 
HTHS is why I’ve ran redline for years consistently. HTHS of 4.4 for the 5w40.

It’s funny that guy likes euro oils. Pennzoil told me to fuck off when I asked for the HTHS for their 5w40 euro oil. Company’s like redline list that spec on their website. Nothing to hide.

the test I had black stone labs do was on oil that saw 280f+ on two separate occasions. That oil went to the track twice plus about 2500k street miles. You can see what redline said about oil break down in this thread where I posted my black stone results.
 
Ok so recap.

Calcium <= 2000
AND
Sodium <= 2000

With

Molybdenum >= 500
OR
ZDDP (zinc) >= 500

These additive specs listed on page 1 are still valid and good, and combining that with a higher HTHS would be ideal?

Any guess why is ACEA A3/B4 so important to this dude? Would a supercharged V8 not matter as much for the calcium/sodium content because LSPI isn't as much of a concern?
 
LSPI is more of a direct injection concern. If that engine is supercharged AND DI, then that would be even more important, considering the instant boost capability of a blower.

Edit:
It's probably important to him just like the Dexos2 spec is for us. There's a reason, but it might not be obvious what that reason is.
 
I'm gonna launch a PM and ask. He seems knowledgeable. And yes we are DI+PI but relatively low boost. So even when I stomp on it at 2-3k rpm I might make like 3 lbs, if that.

But sounds like I should be looking for an oil that's D1G2 and high cP.
 
I'm leaning towards staying with RP 5w30. It has a seemingly decent cP with the anti lspi stuff we were looking for, and it's not really that expensive and is available at any autopart store or walmart.

But I will continue to search the "common" oils for something better
 
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