Bought not Built

You are intending to final these out of metal? Have you considered using some pipe insulation to bridge the gap between the ducting plate thing and whatever it is interfacing with? Gets you the nice rigidity of metal, with the squishiness of foam for closeout.
 
jsmith said:
You are intending to final these out of metal? Have you considered using some pipe insulation to bridge the gap between the ducting plate thing and whatever it is interfacing with? Gets you the nice rigidity of metal, with the squishiness of foam for closeout.
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By pipe insulation you mean a trim to prevent having the sharp edges cut into the surround materials (silicone coupler)? Definitely going to be putting a rubber trim insulation on the edges like that other guy did, otherwise I'd be in boost leak city in about a week.
 
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Do you have your under tray for the car? That thing will make more difference in bats then any diy ducting. Without the under tray you will have cooling issues come summer on track.

with the under tray and ducting you will be happy.
 
gotovato said:
Do you have your under tray for the car? That thing will make more difference in bats then any diy ducting. Without the under tray you will have cooling issues come summer on track.

with the under tray and ducting you will be happy.
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I have the frontal part that goes directly below the IC and radiator attached to the bumper, the tray I have is loosy goosey at best. I'd imagine the full undertray would probably help, but I figure for $0 in free scrap metal, I can evaluate if its worth getting a full metal or just OEM undertray later on in the year.
 
jdab555 said:
I have the frontal part that goes directly below the IC and radiator attached to the bumper, the tray I have is loosy goosey at best. I'd imagine the full undertray would probably help, but I figure for $0 in free scrap metal, I can evaluate if its worth getting a full metal or just OEM undertray later on in the year.
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A full oem under tray is all you would need. Nothing fancy unless you’re making 500whp and intend to run 20 minute sessions balls to the wall.
 
Corksport had a metal undertray that's great, you could very easily make something like that if you have access to free scrap. I'd love a.metal one of keep breaking mine in the winter...

Really you just need the OEM plastic parts that shield the wheel wells that it bolts too at the back and then you should be good to go.
 
Awafrican said:
Corksport had a metal undertray that's great, you could very easily make something like that if you have access to free scrap. I'd love a.metal one of keep breaking mine in the winter...

Really you just need the OEM plastic parts that shield the wheel wells that it bolts too at the back and then you should be good to go.
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Would be cool to build an undertray, I might actually give that a shot...

Also If I don't build these cool side things how am I going to simp for scene points?
 
jdab555 said:
Would be cool to build an undertray, I might actually give that a shot...

Also If I don't build these cool side things how am I going to simp for scene points?
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You can totally build the side peices just less fab work plus plastic break away has its benefits to break away.
 
Awafrican said:
You can totally build the side peices just less fab work plus plastic break away has its benefits to break away.
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Actually got them made yesterday, took about 10 minutes per piece, but I forgot them at my Dad's shop, so I'll need to go grab them later this week.
 
So here are the pictures after painting / trimming with rubber. The rubber itself is actually pretty good, but I found that in some areas it wanted to peel back, so I JB Welded it just like I do for everything else. Overall it fits great, happy with it. I have a buddy who can fab up some plastic covers to fill in the end holes, and my vision will be complete.

Oh I also hit a possum on the way home last weekend, and it left a fat dent in my bumper which I heatgunned back out. Thankfully the bumper is in pretty poor condition regardless, so no tears shed.

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Fog light plug is loose, flickers and goes off when I jiggle the wire. Anyone know where to get a replacement plug I could snap in?
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Question: I keep blowing out my valve cover gasket, in a pretty catastrophic way, as seen in the pics below:
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I am using the AP valve cover kit, and torquing to spec, but each time its failing, this latest one in only a few weeks. Is it possible my in-lb torque wrench is off, and when the car is driven somehow the gasket gets compressed even further and blows out? I make very sure to check it all around, not sure how this could be happening. It looks like I used 200 ft. lbs on this thing, but it looks totally fine all around when I put it on.

Went to a buddy's work after hours, in the hopes of finishing off my air dam project. We made these really cool block off plates using their plastic former and some quick CAD work, and all fit really swell:
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The problem of course was this solution then hit the crashbar, and the bumper wouldn't go back on. While realizing this, we then realized we could just bend my dams to the side, filling in that gap, and eliminating the need entirely for the 2+ hours of work we put into this setup. Moral of the story, don't create solutions to non-existent problems.
 

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Fantastic weekend in Danville, VA at the Autocross event there. Buddy who just sold his Speed3 waiting on a GR86 order co-drove, so the car was put through 10 runs per day, 20 runs total for the weekend. Got beaten in my own car on Saturday, got the one-up on Sunday.

Car did fantastic - I fully expected to blow a coupler or for something to go wrong, but it took the 3 hour drive down, 20 sessions, and 3 hour drive back like a total champ. FMIC did its job and kept BATs under control throughout all runs, which was really confidence inspiring and let us keep on it hard every run.

Ate a lot of cones, but nothing got really ripped off except on my second to last run where the tire decided to eat the front portion of my fender well, so thats gonna get drift-stitched with my spare sitting in the garage later this week.

In the video attached you can see my co-driver's run (with a shitty launch), and notice the terrible squat from those god-awful Eibachs.
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Been a while, here's an update of where I'm at:

Picture from a buddy of my last Danville trip - next one coming June 25-26.
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Picked up a set of Fortune Autos (Not sure if 500 or 510s) from a Gen2 with less than 10k miles on them. Had to use washers to make the rear fit in the perch appropriately, but everything else was straight bolt on. Sent the info to Fortune Auto who asked for extra pics and specs, so hopefully they will update their site to show compatibility.
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And finally, got some new SHMEAT for the RPF1s, as my old RE71r set was down to the wires #shreddit. Explains a lot why my last autocross felt like ice skating.
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As mentioned above, really excited to see how the car does at the next event end of June with new coils and band new Falken RT660s. Also have some SPC Camber arms brand new I got for a steal, haven't decided if I need to install them yet or not.
 
Also, I put yet another valve cover gasket on with new O-rings from Adapted Performance, followed all his instructions, torqued exactly to spec, and still the gasket wants to explode out the timing cover side. Very disappointed, and will be getting Corksport VC hardware probably end of summer. Tired of replacing these things - pretty sure the spacers are incorrectly sized, causing the gasket to take all that torque pressure rather than the hardware.
 
Bolted on my new rt660’s lastnight. Initial impressions from the street, they are unbelievably sticky right out of the driveway. More grip comes with a little warm up. They are much grippier then my re71’s were. Can’t wait to test them out on track.

I can tell tire temp management will be important. A soft tire like this will probably overheat quicker then say an rs4.

those look to be 500 series. 510’s are a different color and I’ve yet to see anyone go as far as 510’s for a ms3. They are nice though. Ask me how I know lol.
 
gotovato said:
Bolted on my new rt660’s lastnight. Initial impressions from the street, they are unbelievably sticky right out of the driveway. More grip comes with a little warm up. They are much grippier then my re71’s were. Can’t wait to test them out on track.

I can tell tire temp management will be important. A soft tire like this will probably overheat quicker then say an rs4.

those look to be 500 series. 510’s are a different color and I’ve yet to see anyone go as far as 510’s for a ms3. They are nice though. Ask me how I know lol.
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They honestly ride just as nice on the street as my old CS Shock/Eibach spring kit did, but without that wallowing feel from the springs. Very pleased so far, and quality is top notch.
 
jdab555 said:
They honestly ride just as nice on the street as my old CS Shock/Eibach spring kit did, but without that wallowing feel from the springs. Very pleased so far, and quality is top notch.
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Any clue on what the spring rates are? Those will do a lot for your car.
 
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