Bought not Built

[jdab555]

That's a slick setup in the vent like that!

It really came out well, worked far better than I had expected. The guide I referenced earlier was really helpful. I didn't have to dremel or anything, there were just some tabs I broke off and shoved the universal pod holder in real tight, then secured with zip ties. It is rock solid and mega clean, AC still works too!

 

[Awafrican]

Got the piping together and oil temp gauge fully wired up. For anyone using the new version of CXRacing piping, this is what you will need to complete it:

*Straight Coupler you can cut to size- Amazon.com: TMKOOL 8" Length 4-Ply Reinforced High Temp 2.5" ID Straight Coupler Silicone Hose (BLACK, 2.5'') : Automotive
*U-Pipe - Amazon.com: Ucreative 90 Degree Elbow 4-Ply High Performance Coupler Silicone Hose 2.0 inch to 2.5 inch (51MM to 63MM) : Automotive
*90-degree reduce from turbo to pipe - Amazon.com: AotoKoop Aluminum Pipe L 11.81" (300mm), OD 2.5" (63mm) Universal 180 Degree Aluminum Piping Tube Intercooler Pipe Polished U Bend Aluminum Air Intake Tube, for Direct Replacement of Engine Bay Pipes : Everything Else
*Straight pipe for over the HPFP - 2.5 Inch OD 5 Inch Long Aluminum Joiner Pipe for Intecooler turbo (amazon.com)


Car started up great, but pops codes for VTCS, EGR, and Knock sensor. Sounds really good at least.

The P0328 code presents itself in my case as 1.05 knock at any throttle position except none, even just a barely light tap at idle, and not changing at steady throttle. Took it about 2 miles around the block a few times, no dice. I was able to get up underneath the manifold and tighten it down as far as it can go, but it still presents symptoms. I pulled the knock sensor, pictures below, and can't see anything that would indicate the wires are damaged or the harness connector is bunk. Both sides look fine from the sensor to the main harness.

Would there be anywhere else that may be causing it to pop? The sensor wasn't moved at all during installation, I only routed the harness up and behind the fuel rail, not pinched anywhere. I have a new used sensor on the way, we'll see if that fixes it.

View attachment 24656 View attachment 24657 View attachment 24658 View attachment 24659

Hey that's great you got it sorted with the FoST manifold, would you mind tossing this in the thread for the manifold so others can easily replicate it? Also that's a nice oil gauge I might be missing it but which one did you go with?

 

[Easter Bunny]

You said oil pressure but it says temp does it do both?

 

[jdab555]

You said oil pressure but it says temp does it do both?

Sorry, it should have said oil temperature - it only shows temp.

Hey that's great you got it sorted with the FoST manifold, would you mind tossing this in the thread for the manifold so others can easily replicate it? Also that's a nice oil gauge I might be missing it but which one did you go with?

The below, it's wired to turn red with the headlights on. And for sure, I will toss those into the ST thread!
Amazon.com: Prosport Digital Evo Electrical Oil Temperature Gauge Red & Blue Display -Includes 1/8" NPT Sender 2 1/16 : Automotive

 

[jdab555]

Tuning is going great - turnaround time is about 5 business days, currently on Version C. Attaching a Wot 3rd gear log here in case anyone wants to see what flow is like on my setup - BNRS3, ST Manifold, XSPowerV3 EM, 3"JRB Intake, 3" Full catless Turboback.

Power band is so nice, boost builds really smooth and the car just feels really healthy now, hard to describe. Maybe I'll eat these words and eject a piston or something as karmic payback.

 

[jdab555]

Ordered Brass Caliper Bushings from Damond Motorsports, with the assistance of a gift card I got off them the Christmas before last during their giveaway.

Obviously the quality is top-notch, going to pair these with new pads and rotors.

Planning on Running Hawk HPS all around, Centric Blanks on the front and whatever is available on rockauto for the rear. Any other suggestions for a better setup? I don't believe I will run the car hard enough to need slotted rotors since I don't do an actual "track day" very often (first one this May though!)

 

[jdab555]

Tune is officially done, car drives minty and seems very happy and healthy. Knock events are even down from the prior setup, which I won't speculate on but I like to think freeing up flow and putting in the step-colder plugs helps a lot.

Car did really well at the last autocross event, next is on April 29, so looking to get the brakes fully refreshed by then with the pads, rotors, and caliper bushings.

Next up after this is probably looking at other bushings throughout the car, namely control arms, subframe, etc.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Look into DBA rotors. They're good stuff. I ran them on my Speed and currently run them on my Miata. Not cheap but they hold up well. I've done street driving on them and multiple track/autoX days without any warpage issues.

Stay far away from Hawk Pads. I had a set that made insane noise and wouldn't stay bedded. I'm talking the car sounded like a bus with metal to metal brakes.

EBC makes good pads and haven't heard bad things about them.

 

[jdab555]

Look into DBA rotors. They're good stuff. I ran them on my Speed and currently run them on my Miata. Not cheap but they hold up well. I've done street driving on them and multiple track/autoX days without any warpage issues.

Stay far away from Hawk Pads. I had a set that made insane noise and wouldn't stay bedded. I'm talking the car sounded like a bus with metal to metal brakes.

EBC makes good pads and haven't heard bad things about them.

Appreciate it - the pads and rotors are already in unfortunately, so I'll see how the combo works. I'm 90% sure they already have old Hawks on, and if these pads are trash I'll swap them out which should be simple.

My problem now is the spacers I have on my rear wheels were torqued with the strength of Hercules, and so 3 nuts, 2 on the left and 1 on the right, have now turned to mush under the weight of breaker bars and monster impacts, so this weekend is Operation Torch to hopefully get some final purchase on those things and pull them off so I can actually get the rotors replaced. Worst case scenario is I leave them on and find time later to replace the rear rotors.

 

[jdab555]

Well the spacers will not be coming off of any of my wheels any time soon. I am flabbergasted at the level of torque / matedness they have to the hub, but it is insane. I decided to leave the rears on and try the fronts, same story, and I won't even bother stripping out all the rest. I am 90% sure it would be cheaper for me to replace all 4 hubs than take the car to a shop and pay for them to find a way to remove the spacers.

Leading theory right now is the metal the lug nuts on the spacers are made from is of hilariously low quality, they started to strip with even some moderate levels of force, and the one pictured below withstood days of PB Blaster, minutes of heat, and an extractor socket with a massive breaker bar and instead chose death. If anyone has ideas I am all ears, otherwise I'll find time probably in the fall to pull the hubs off all 4 corners and chuck them in the garbage, then replace my rotors.

At least the Slide pins and brake pads are in...

 

[Easter Bunny]

If they are that soft you might be able to chisel them off

How many are stuck?

 

[L337TurboZ]

My advice would be to cut the spacers off. It's gonna suck. You're going to have to put all new studs in anyways.

Or heat it to the point it melts and use a slide hammer to rip the spacer off while the studs are semi solid/liquid

 

[jdab555]

If they are that soft you might be able to chisel them off

How many are stuck?

3 in the rear, and I'm assuming just as many or more would be on the fronts. I'm not sure they are soft enough to chisel without a lot of effort - it's not lug-quality metal, but its strong enough to put up a fight.

My advice would be to cut the spacers off. It's gonna suck. You're going to have to put all new studs in anyways.

Or heat it to the point it melts and use a slide hammer to rip the spacer off while the studs are semi solid/liquid

I'm not eager to spray metal shaving all over and probably don't have access to a torch assembly hot enough to melt the nuts, but it again comes down to effort vs. just chucking the whole hub assembly since I already have new rotors. Would just need new hubs and spacers which don't seem that expensive, which would give me new wheel bearings too which fits with this year's theme.

 

[L337TurboZ]

If you have to replace the hubs and they're pressed in then a slide hammer is going to be what's best. Just slam the living crap out of it until the hub comes out of the bearing and press new bearings in.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Are you using a six point or twelve point socket? If something is really stuck a six is better

 

[jdab555]

Are you using a six point or twelve point socket? If something is really stuck a six is better

Yeah 6 point - no dice; could be I have crappy 6 points, but it seems like the nuts themselves are poor.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Have you thought of drilling the nuts to split them? Do one or two holes up too and the same on the bottom then chisel until it snaps apart

 

[jdab555]

Have you thought of drilling the nuts to split them? Do one or two holes up too and the same on the bottom then chisel until it snaps apart

That's a good idea, may just be able to hack them off that way. It's going to need to wait until the end of the season probably with events coming up almost every weekend.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Wait you plan on driving it like that?

 

[jdab555]

Wait you plan on driving it like that?

Yeah I threw the others back on, they aren't coming off any time soon.