Building for the road course...again

Have you considered making a Raspberry Pi Dash using Tunerstudio or some other form of windows software? I bet you could get Hondata to work on it even
 
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I have a couple USB powered monitors that are actually quite good. They also have HDMI in as well as USB-C, depending on your display output type. Powering a monitor with one cable is pretty baller. If you go this route, get something with VESA mounting and an IPS panel with high contrast so you can actually see it during the daytime.
 
Have you considered making a Raspberry Pi Dash using Tunerstudio or some other form of windows software? I bet you could get Hondata to work on it even

this thought did cross my mind but then I also started thinking about telemetry collection and lap timing.
Could something like that be integrated into the Pi?

I’d also like to have it be able to intercept my canbus signals so I can have all the oem shit displayed there as well. Not to mention inputs for additional sensors. Not even sure where I’d start for that.
 
this thought did cross my mind but then I also started thinking about telemetry collection and lap timing.
Could something like that be integrated into the Pi?

I’d also like to have it be able to intercept my canbus signals so I can have all the oem shit displayed there as well. Not to mention inputs for additional sensors. Not even sure where I’d start for that.

Use a GoPro and race render. It uses GPS data to sync your track videos with map data. As for g readings you'll need data logs to add to race render but the software takes a lot of file types. I was able to use my Megasquirt data logs with videos no problems. I know HPTuners and others work as well.
 
Use a GoPro and race render. It uses GPS data to sync your track videos with map data. As for g readings you'll need data logs to add to race render but the software takes a lot of file types. I was able to use my Megasquirt data logs with videos no problems. I know HPTuners and others work as well.
The GoPro telemetry is what I use for my videos now. It works ok but the gps is nowhere near a dedicated lap timer. The accelerometer isn’t the best either.

I gotta look into these options more. Would be a ton cheaper for sure.
 
New oil for 2022.

Ran redline 5w40 for my entire ownership of the Mazda. It loved it. Oil analysis came back great considering what I put that oil through.

gonna try something else this season. Motul sport 5w40. Has a slightly lower hths rating then the redline did, but it’s a better price/liter and the civic in NA form shouldn’t be as hard on oil.

we’ll see what the lab says after a track day!
Cars currently got no oil cooler and I know I’ll be lapping the ever living shit out of the car. Good oil will go along way. I feel like part of the reason my stock block lasted so long was because good oil, frequently changed.

One of the most common motor killers is straight up running out of oil.
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I don’t want to upset anyone but this is why Honda’s make power. Right here.
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Like im planning to port my head. How the fuck do you even improve on that lol. Jeez. Honda don’t play. Shits impressive. Also impressive is the fact my oem intake manifold is good for 800whp no issues.

I guess Honda has a reputation for a reason. I love it lol.
 
I don’t want to upset anyone but this is why Honda’s make power. Right here...I guess Honda has a reputation for a reason. I love it lol.
Honda has been perfecting their recipe since inception. Spending a little more time designing simple tech and refinement allowing reduction of excess material and weight = cost savings and reliability leading to lower warranty claims. In your case its simply all win!!
 
Honda has been perfecting their recipe since inception. Spending a little more time designing simple tech and refinement allowing reduction of excess material and weight = cost savings and reliability leading to lower warranty claims. In your case its simply all win!!
It really is ridiculous. Even the oem intake manifold is a total fucking beast. Flows literally all of it. Like ALL of it. Then you look at those head ports and it’s like…they designed this for something specific. Yea it’s a cheap ass commuter car sure…but that motor ain’t no cheap shit. Someone did a lot of math here.

Other than a gasket match I don't see how you would make that better
I really don’t know either. People port these heads all day long but a shop wants 1500+. Or you go CNC port and you’re like 2k+. For a balls out NA build I can see that being a huge help but if I boost this thing down the road…which we know I will…like how do you improve on those ports? Some guys cut the valve guides flush to the casting and smooth it all out. Apparently this is fine lol. More heat into the valve though so I’ll probably avoid that for now but yea. Damn
 
Did some more work this weekend. Small shit while the cars down anyways.

got under the car and took a wire wheel to the subframe. I was expecting hell but it’s actually completely solid. Just surface rust. Awesome.
I wire wheeled it
Degreased it
Wiped it down with acetone
Next up por15 metal prep
Then paint on the por15 for a perfectly refreshed subframe. Woohoo
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1 casualty while replacing a tired coolant line,
Rip knock sensor
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Waiting for my intake manifold to return so I can get the car back together.
Also have a valve cover being modded. Adding 2 -10an bungs to it for a catch can. In the Honda world, no one cries about “bAfFlEs” on the valve cover. They literally just make their own. Once mines done I’ll show you all. It’s so simple, so cool lol
 
One other thought on the intake port though. I now see why Honda's don't make any torque
Yup. This would be exactly why. It’s also why it’ll make 400whp and 280wtq with like no boost. The Honda dyno graphs are pretty nice.
Local tuner bolted a turbo kit to his 8th gen civic. Stock motor. Never opened. 190k miles on it. Blue line was just bolt ons NA. Red line is gt35r 9.8psi. No boost controller. Imagine tapering boost to say 15psi at redline.
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This is our local 94 pump gas.
This is the type of power band I’m looking for at similar, although slightly higher(cause smaller turbo) boost levels. Now port that head a little add some valve train/mild cam and carry that torque to 9000rpm lol.
 
At those flow levels its probably exhaust and hotside work you need, not head porting.
Apparently the exhaust side can use some opening up. That’s mentioned. Hog the exhaust side out. Otherwise yea these cars like a lot of exhaust flow
 
I thought all turbo cars do; the problem isn't usually getting air in the cylinder, but getting air out the cylinder.
 
Well you can always ram air in. Higher boost levels. Sure. Flow on both sides is important. But again, at this point this is a stock head we’re talking about. Porting both sides even a little might mean same power but at 3psi less. That’s significant when I’m trying to run 20 minute sessions.
 

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