Building for the road course...again

[Enki]

Hmm. Wonder if these would be good for my rebuild; 8500 RPM and boost. My current Pauter + shape rods are probably close to unbendable but they do weigh a LOT (~640g range for just factory length MS3 rods, and mine are longer but with a smaller dia big end, so probably close). Having them made in Titanium would drop that to probably pretty close to 448g, but the cost would likely be enormous....And still weigh more than yours lol

 

[gotovato]

Hmm. Wonder if these would be good for my rebuild; 8500 RPM and boost. My current Pauter + shape rods are probably close to unbendable but they do weigh a LOT (~640g range for just factory length MS3 rods, and mine are longer but with a smaller dia big end, so probably close). Having them made in Titanium would drop that to probably pretty close to 448g, but the cost would likely be enormous....And still weigh more than yours lol

BC offers titanium rods and so does Saenz but yea they’re dumb money and titanium is cycle limited so depending on mileage or hours you gotta time them out and replace. Maybe not a big deal for a race only car I guess.

These are BC’s “light weight” rods. They also have a mid weight rod and then their full blown big power turbo rods. Lots of options which is great. ARP 2000 or 625 bolts. 625’s being the only way to go of course for any real rpm. On my 86mm stroke engine that’s anything beyond 8600rpm for any real amount of time(anything non drag race)but I’m sure you’re already ontop of rod bolts.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Enki you are aiming for almost double the horsepower per cylinder plus boost you would fold those rods on a maf cal log

 

[Enki]

Let me dream you fucking wet blanket

Didn't Goto say they were good to 200HP a cylinder? I ain't shooting for 800, bud; the EFR is tapped out at ~60-65 lbs-flow.

 

[Easter Bunny]

200/ hole in a Honda is like 36.2 lbft/hole also na vs turbo loads the rods differently.

Worst case you blow up again but in a new and exciting way

 

[Enki]

Worst case you blow up again but in a new and exciting way

Wait, shit, does this mean I've been infected by Drama?

 

[gotovato]

600whp is probably doable if torque is kept in check. Even turbo k20’s don’t make much torque though lol not compared to the Mazdas anyways

 

[Enki]

I shouldn't be over 350 wheel.

 

[gotovato]

350 wheel torque should be no problem on those rods.

Besides, you don’t need retard torque when you have rpm. People still don’t know that lol

edit: I should say you don’t need retard torque when you can carry that torque to any half decent rpm

 

[Enki]

All about the thrust charts.

*BIG WINK*

 

[Easter Bunny]

I shouldn't be over 350 wheel.

Why even bother? Get a junkyard motor and run e85.......

 

[Enki]

I PAID FOR THE WHOLE TACH IM GONNA USE THE WHOLE TACH

 

[gotovato]

Love using the whole tach. It’s very satisfying when the needle stops but you’re still accelerating

 

[Enki]

Stops? Mine hits the console and freaks out. THAT's satisfying.

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[Easter Bunny]

My favorite car memory was hitting 0 on the speedo in my pinto. No stop at 85 so it kept going

 

[gotovato]

On the civic you can see it in some of my videos. It’s just buries itself and just stays pegged at 9000 lol


Took the car for a quick drive right now. It definitely works! It’s missing some power but past 5500rpm it’s not terrible actually. Better than expected.

Had knock sensor code after my first 100 feet. Turned around. Swapped the sensor. All good.

This will do. It’ll allow me to get my seat time and maybe tweak another part of the car. Chassis/suspension or whatever else

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

I apologize in advance. I'm a bit high.

Do you know the mileage on the motor? You might be able to help it and get away with some SeaFoam treatment.

Or whatever the Canadian version of seafoam is. Or some sort of heavy duty carbon build up cleaner that you can run.

Its only a few bucks for the can, an oil change, and some time. It might help with all the offset of those leakdown numbers.

 

[gotovato]

I apologize in advance. I'm a bit high.

Do you know the mileage on the motor? You might be able to help it and get away with some SeaFoam treatment.

Or whatever the Canadian version of seafoam is. Or some sort of heavy duty carbon build up cleaner that you can run.

Its only a few bucks for the can, an oil change, and some time. It might help with all the offset of those leakdown numbers.

This is a good idea. I’ve never used that product. Usually a trip to the track and giving the engine the beans really cleans it out.


The oil I just drained was fresh on Friday. I put MAYBE 15 miles on it plus 30-40 min of idle time while bleeding the coolant. That oil came out black as hell. Definitely did some cleaning. New oil looks nice now after going out and doing a bunch of pulls

 

[gotovato]

Did my first wot log. Using last years stock engine tune this setup seems to make the exact same whp or even slightly higher.


It’s 99f out here so it’s not cool. This is workable though. I can live with it lol. It feels good enough for the rest of this season anyways long as it holds together

 

[gotovato]

Keep getting a cel for knock sensor not working. Swapped the sensor. Went for a drive. Code came back after a while again.

I checked continuity from ecu side harness, directly to the knock sensor. Continuity seems strong. Wiggled the harness around and still it was solid.

I unplugged some shit and replugged it in today. Hopefully some connector somewhere just needed to be reseated. What a dumb thing. Will test drive again tomorrow. Was trying to make it to the track on Thursday but it’s not looking good with this dumb shit now