Building for the road course...again

Can the GoPro run off a direct power source? Like I’ll run a cable to it if I can that would be alright

absolutely, and they run better because you remove a major source of heat (the battery). but if you run it with no battery, for instance with a cigarette lighter, make sure it is 100% secure, because the slightest power interruption will shut it down. as far as power consumption, i have run a gopro for 12 hours on a ~20000mah battery bank and it could have gone another 8.

gopros will also switch power sources without interruption. for example you can start it on the internal battery, hook up power to it, then remove the internal battery. if you wanted to switch internal batteries without interruption, you can hook power to the gopro, remove the battery, then install a fresh internal battery and unplug the gopro all without interruption.
 
absolutely, and they run better because you remove a major source of heat (the battery). but if you run it with no battery, for instance with a cigarette lighter, make sure it is 100% secure, because the slightest power interruption will shut it down. as far as power consumption, i have run a gopro for 12 hours on a ~20000mah battery bank and it could have gone another 8.

gopros will also switch power sources without interruption. for example you can start it on the internal battery, hook up power to it, then remove the internal battery. if you wanted to switch internal batteries without interruption, you can hook power to the gopro, remove the battery, then install a fresh internal battery and unplug the gopro all without interruption.
This is good to know thank you!

So, what i found today. When you run on battery and the battery dies the gopro will at least save all the footage up until then.
With the direct power source, if you remove power you lose whatever footage. This means when i come off track i need to remember to turn the gopro off.

Battery and power source might be the answer?
I was thinking to just use a cigarette lighter adapter and run a usb up to the headliner/sunroof where i mount the gopro. this should be the answer
 
When you run on battery and the battery dies the gopro will at least save all the footage up until then.
With the direct power source, if you remove power you lose whatever footage.
this has not been my experience, but i have only worked with gopro 4,10, and 11. legit sandisk extreme cards (not from amazon). there's not enough buffer space inside the gopro for it to not write to the card, i don't think it has any significant internal memory onboard.
I was thinking to just use a cigarette lighter adapter
test it first. i've had high quality adapters (anker) that would somehow come loose (on the highway) and shut the camera off.
 
this has not been my experience
Interesting my. I just tried it at my desk. Took 12 seconds of video then pulled the plug without stopping recording and the recording was gone.

I have a hero 7 black
test it first. i've had high quality adapters (anker) that would somehow come loose (on the highway) and shut the camera off.
Hmmm ok good tip. I will need to see. Worst case I can hardwire it but I’m guessing the GoPro takes 5 volts so I’ll need some sort of adapter inbetween usb and 12v source?
 
It probably writes the files, but the recording needs to be stopped for the header/filename to be generated. Basically, the recording is on the drive, just not in a recognizable file format.

Edit:
Worst case I can hardwire it but I’m guessing the GoPro takes 5 volts so I’ll need some sort of adapter inbetween usb and 12v source?

You can get wire in USB ports (I have one of these):
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Final time attack event of the season is this sunday. I have registered for 1 class down from where I have been. this track has two long straights where time is made with power, something i dont have much of right now. No point in trying to compete with the 300-500hp subarus here.

Brake pads, rotors, and tires are smoked. I have enough left for maybe 10-20 laps. Plan is to qualify quickly in the morning within 10 laps or so. I may have to ask to go out in a faster run group since im always placed with the newer people which makes it impossible to put down any sort of decent lap. that's been my struggle for 2 seasons now. I will ask to move qualifying groups if need be. I dont have the tire or brake to waste messing around. There is nothing more frustrating then testing the absolute maximum brake pressure you can apply because the guy in front of you doesnt know what carrying speed is. This is worse then being stuck in stop and go traffic.


Also, need to put on these bad boy decals. They are must bigger than i expected but its cool to have these guys onboard!!
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I decided to check out my brakes just because i had some paranoia lastnight and this track is so extremely brutal on brakes. I was just gonna send it as is but yea thats not a good idea lol.

Heres what i found,
This crack is just a little too much for me
img_6743-jpeg.124935


completely smoked as they say. Slots are gone.
img_6742-jpeg.124936


I had some rotor rings I retired last season but I kept them as back ups since they were still in usable condition. I installed those today. They will do much better.

Pads are almost at the rivets. Maybe a few hard laps left. I have some spare back up pads also from last season that if need be I can swap them in.

Car is currently at my friends house. He has enough property to park the truck and trailer where as I don’t.

Will be a 4am wake up call tomorrow. Planning to be at the track gates for 6am. Gates will open at 8 most likely but by then the lineup will be 1000 cars long lol
 
Just gonna leave this here. It was a hell of a day
img_6754-jpeg.124952


I'm under the PT class, i qualified with a 1:21.9, second guy was a 1:22.03
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The G35 won first place in the finals by 5 tenths but it was quickly disqualified off the podium when someone called out his 295 wide tires. HOLY SHIT LOLOL thats not even freaking close to the correct allowed tire size:tearsofjoy:

My brake pads for the day. This track is the worst on braking. Its just a killer. I had to take it easy on the brakes meaning minimal laps, minimal slowing down.

I did 5 laps in the morning which put me in second place. By the afternoon my class had gone out 3-4 times and i was down in 4th which isnt cool so i went out for the final qualifying session and thats what you see above lol. P1 qualifying not freaking bad.

Look at that car list, and here i am with my junkyard k20. unreal. you all know the kinda power these shits make. those VQs are good for 260whp with no oil in them. Most of these dudes were north of 275whp which is allowed.

In the finals, my first hot lap of 3, the car dings at me and the brake light comes on. Ughhhhhhh my mind was gone. see ya focus see ya lap time. I was screwed up. Once i realized brake pressure was still strong i kept on sending it and lap 3 was my fastest but it still wasnt great. Ah well, it worked out lol

EPIC day.

my brake pads. We inspected them after every session and they barely wore at all. very nice.

The
img_6748-jpeg.124956




action shot,
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Very happy with how the season ended. With a power upgrade for 2026 i should be in great shape.
 
Cost of consumables is making junkyard motors look more attractive huh?
one positive about honda civic thankfully consumables are not DUMB money. my rear tires are 2 seasons old and still fine. the brake pads have 8 events on them and some street driving. The rotors were also 2 seasons old lol. It aint BAD!! now picture a corvette, 2000$ for a pair of rear tires, brake pads almost every 2 races, rotors every 2 races. Sure a c6 would be gangster but i aint affording all that shit. i pay around 1700 for 6 civic tires. 4 fronts and 2 rears and thats like 1.5 seasons worth of tire.

Its easy for posers to tell me i should have a corvette. consumables dont matter in the mcdonalds parking lot
 
Team mechanic inspecting rear hubs. We did this after every single time i came off track. Thankfully its a 20 minute job. These hubs are 5 events old now and will be retired for next season. They are the moog hubs with the thicker flanges but i still feel 4 events is probably max? Depending on which tires im on. My practice/street setup makes alot less grip so probably less taxing on the hub
img_6749-jpeg.124940
 
People think you need a lot of car to get a good time, when the reality is you should upgrade the car to meet your driving capability.

Good work.
 
People think you need a lot of car to get a good time, when the reality is you should upgrade the car to meet your driving capability.
This. Literally just this.

I did things backwards with the Mazda. Made a fun street car that I then wanted to track. It didn’t go well and my classing was fuuuuuucked right up from the mods. It wasn’t a good time.

With the civic, it went from stock, to some upgrades, to where we are today. I leveled up with the car. It’s a different journey
 
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