Building for the road course...again
- Thread starter gotovato
- Start date
That's amazing customer service there!
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Cars dropped off at the shop to check the alignment. I think the drivers side may have lost camber again. So annoying.
new front tires being mount too lol. Almost understeered into a curb with these
Have an event at the track on Saturday. It’s a private a event. kind of a driving clinic. Hoping to learn something new!
new front tires being mount too lol. Almost understeered into a curb with these
Have an event at the track on Saturday. It’s a private a event. kind of a driving clinic. Hoping to learn something new!
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Some interesting information here.
My German tuner buddy has a lot of experience in modeling engines via simulation software. Shows power curve and torque curve and whatnot.
He has built the k20 in simulation for his own build and his numbers were within 3% when he finally finished the car and tuned it.
He modeled my NA setup.
what he did here was compare the “new” engine running with my current long tube header vs running with a PLM short tube header.
below are the results.
Removed for competition purposes
Blue and green is with my current long tube
Red and black would be with the PLM shorty header.
These are flywheel numbers but still. Look at the curve difference. That short tube is all about the rpm’s while the long tube is all about the mid range meat.
The header on my car now is the go to for 99% of people. It makes the most power for mild bolt on builds plus gives a nice mid range power band. The torque band also moves down to 5k. Good for most setups/street cars.
The shorty header seems to be the business for high rpm operation. He calculated the resonances of the headers for me and the PLM is on the money for where I want my power.
PLM provided me the exact dimensions of the header including primary and secondary runner lengths as well as ID for all runners. My guy will implement this into the sim and see what we get. The sim he ran above was apparently “close” but he wants exact.
look at how difficult this is VS just gimme another PSI of boost lol.
I’m learning some next level shit though. This is awesome.
My German tuner buddy has a lot of experience in modeling engines via simulation software. Shows power curve and torque curve and whatnot.
He has built the k20 in simulation for his own build and his numbers were within 3% when he finally finished the car and tuned it.
He modeled my NA setup.
what he did here was compare the “new” engine running with my current long tube header vs running with a PLM short tube header.
below are the results.
Removed for competition purposes
Blue and green is with my current long tube
Red and black would be with the PLM shorty header.
These are flywheel numbers but still. Look at the curve difference. That short tube is all about the rpm’s while the long tube is all about the mid range meat.
The header on my car now is the go to for 99% of people. It makes the most power for mild bolt on builds plus gives a nice mid range power band. The torque band also moves down to 5k. Good for most setups/street cars.
The shorty header seems to be the business for high rpm operation. He calculated the resonances of the headers for me and the PLM is on the money for where I want my power.
PLM provided me the exact dimensions of the header including primary and secondary runner lengths as well as ID for all runners. My guy will implement this into the sim and see what we get. The sim he ran above was apparently “close” but he wants exact.
look at how difficult this is VS just gimme another PSI of boost lol.
I’m learning some next level shit though. This is awesome.
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What's the difference in runner size between the two manifolds
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
I’m not even sure. He had the skunk2 numbers somewhere. I provided the PLM numbers today.
removed in the spirit of competition
that’s a big part of it I guess as well as the overall length difference of the headers. My long tube is something like 34” while the shorty is 26”. Now that he has the PLM numbers I’m waiting to see what he says. He’s a busy guy. I did get a new revision today though! Mostly part throttle stuff and low cam stuff.
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The one you have now doesn't do this. I thought that was step one for a na exhaust manifold
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Right?? My current header is the “go to” however. For bolt on cars it’s the one everyone wants. It makes the most power down low and gives the most mid range so I do get it. Popular option for street cars I guess. Which is 95% of people.
the PLM header is considered second best. It’s much cheaper. There’s one locally used for $350cad. Mine would sell for $500 cad pretty easily
So more power for less money.
Fucking civic owners
Fucking civic owners
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Haha. More power for my high compression big cam 9500rpm engine.
for stock block with bolt ons the more expensive header seems to be the better option.
Anyways….if this NA shit makes close to his simulation removed in the spirit of competition…I’ll be more then happy. Specially with the rpm. Fuck yea let’s gooo
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i was kinda kidding, that big torque bump is right where you would want it on the street
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
It’s definitely felt on the street. From stock to the header I have now, that torque bump was massively noticeable
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Had the car on the scales for corner balancing. Never had that done before.
car weighs 2750lbs. Not bad. That’s with 1/4tank of gas.
Front left is a little heavy still, and without messing up the rest of the balance best bet is to move weight around.
I was thinking maybe move my battery which is way up front on the driver side, to the rear passenger side of the car. Put it in the trunk. Only part of that I don’t like is the extra weight of running a power wire back there.
worth it maybe?
Light weight fancy racing batteries are out of budget right now
Had fresh tires mounted up front too. What a difference. With my hankook rs4’s on the back the car feels very very pointy lol. Definitely not the ideal rear tires for these fronts but if I ever need extra loose mode this is it.
Car feels like it did last year in terms of front end bite/grip. It’s immense. Can’t wait for the track on Saturday.
car weighs 2750lbs. Not bad. That’s with 1/4tank of gas.
Front left is a little heavy still, and without messing up the rest of the balance best bet is to move weight around.
I was thinking maybe move my battery which is way up front on the driver side, to the rear passenger side of the car. Put it in the trunk. Only part of that I don’t like is the extra weight of running a power wire back there.
worth it maybe?
Light weight fancy racing batteries are out of budget right now
Had fresh tires mounted up front too. What a difference. With my hankook rs4’s on the back the car feels very very pointy lol. Definitely not the ideal rear tires for these fronts but if I ever need extra loose mode this is it.
Car feels like it did last year in terms of front end bite/grip. It’s immense. Can’t wait for the track on Saturday.
No judgement but can you lose weight? It's free and better for you.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Absolutely an option. I could and should.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Results from yesterdays autox. Second time ever doing autox.
So far I am enjoying the Nankang CR-S tires. They seem to be real good. Once I hit my usual lapping I’ll see how they really perform but so far off to a great start
that single run was legendary I will say. The car was on the limit the entire run. Directly on the edge of adhesion. Car was a little understeery at the beginning of the day.
I learned my coilovers have rebound only dampening adjustment so I used this to my advantage. Had the fronts cranked up high. Stiff. Left the rear at 10/24
the results? The easiest to drive and most confidence inspiring I have ever felt the car. It was on another level. Steering with brake and throttle is the secret sauce I will say.
I’m proud at how I drove and I’m proud of this little ghetto Honda I’ve slapped together.
Huge shoutout to my tuner for his incredible work.
Next up is to work on my consistency as a driver
So far I am enjoying the Nankang CR-S tires. They seem to be real good. Once I hit my usual lapping I’ll see how they really perform but so far off to a great start
that single run was legendary I will say. The car was on the limit the entire run. Directly on the edge of adhesion. Car was a little understeery at the beginning of the day.
I learned my coilovers have rebound only dampening adjustment so I used this to my advantage. Had the fronts cranked up high. Stiff. Left the rear at 10/24
the results? The easiest to drive and most confidence inspiring I have ever felt the car. It was on another level. Steering with brake and throttle is the secret sauce I will say.
I’m proud at how I drove and I’m proud of this little ghetto Honda I’ve slapped together.
Huge shoutout to my tuner for his incredible work.
Next up is to work on my consistency as a driver
Great job on nabbing that first place spot! The fact you were also 2 seconds faster is a big gap. In my local AutoX class it's very tight with difference's in mostly fractions of a second.
Got any video?
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Thanks! I also thought the 2 second gap was huge but I felt it in my soul. That run was glorious.
I messed up by not bringing the GoPro. I knew I’d have passengers so I just said forget it
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
11.1:1 compression pistons = sold
BC H Beam rods = sold
PRL fmic kit = for sale hopefully goes soon.
New pistons ordered. wiseco pistons with the AP coating. We will be milling the dome down slightly on these. Apparently squish area is as or more important then massive compression. Who knew?!
Rod selection pending my tuners sign off. Looking at K1 lightweight rods with arp 625 rod bolts(bolts cost as much as the rods lol damn).
So yesterday I went up to wiseco to exchange my pistons. Unfortunately they were unable to exchange as my pistons didn’t come from their warehouse/inventory. They couldn’t take the pistons in.
Instead, she made a suggestion as to who would potentially by my pistons and rods for fair dealer price.
A shop owner/fellow Honda builder and tuner Eric Lavigne. Never met this guy before but I know him. Know his name and he’s a pretty popular guy around here for track Honda builds.
I drove straight to his shop. Walked in. Told him my story and bam. He bought everything on the spot. Cash. No bs. Just “I’ll take it all”. He paid me enough to cover my new rods and pistons so I’m happy. That saved me months of Facebook market place BS and really made my life a lot easier. Awesome.
This Eric guy also gave me the good news that our machine shop(we used the same guy) although the shop is closed, the owner is still operating out of another local machine shop.
Happy days! He’ll be able to do my up coming build. Freaking awesome. Here I was thinking I’d have to find another machine shop.
This must be the universe telling me I need to build this high rpm NA k20 and race it well. Haha.
Once my fmic sells I’ll probably stash the cash away until closer to the end of the season. I need a header, and a new intake manifold. Also need my new camshaft. Few dollars left to spend but selling that fmic should cover my cam and some of the header. Can’t complain
BC H Beam rods = sold
PRL fmic kit = for sale hopefully goes soon.
New pistons ordered. wiseco pistons with the AP coating. We will be milling the dome down slightly on these. Apparently squish area is as or more important then massive compression. Who knew?!
Rod selection pending my tuners sign off. Looking at K1 lightweight rods with arp 625 rod bolts(bolts cost as much as the rods lol damn).
So yesterday I went up to wiseco to exchange my pistons. Unfortunately they were unable to exchange as my pistons didn’t come from their warehouse/inventory. They couldn’t take the pistons in.
Instead, she made a suggestion as to who would potentially by my pistons and rods for fair dealer price.
A shop owner/fellow Honda builder and tuner Eric Lavigne. Never met this guy before but I know him. Know his name and he’s a pretty popular guy around here for track Honda builds.
I drove straight to his shop. Walked in. Told him my story and bam. He bought everything on the spot. Cash. No bs. Just “I’ll take it all”. He paid me enough to cover my new rods and pistons so I’m happy. That saved me months of Facebook market place BS and really made my life a lot easier. Awesome.
This Eric guy also gave me the good news that our machine shop(we used the same guy) although the shop is closed, the owner is still operating out of another local machine shop.
Happy days! He’ll be able to do my up coming build. Freaking awesome. Here I was thinking I’d have to find another machine shop.
This must be the universe telling me I need to build this high rpm NA k20 and race it well. Haha.
Once my fmic sells I’ll probably stash the cash away until closer to the end of the season. I need a header, and a new intake manifold. Also need my new camshaft. Few dollars left to spend but selling that fmic should cover my cam and some of the header. Can’t complain
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