Building for the road course...again

Just gonna leave this here. More to come later.

K20 failure - mid competition. Emotional damage!
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still grabbed third place which is fucking not real life. This place is a simulation I’ve confirmed it
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Here was my competition btw. Again. This is a simulation. Life isn’t real. These cars should’ve r a p e d me
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RIP. Any clues yet as to what happened? Oil starvation or det?
Few working theories. One is P2V contact due to valve float, other is rod small end let go.


Prior to this I had just sent track logs from the morning to my tuner. Everything was perfect. No knock. Oil pressure solid for the entire lap.

He did mentioned some weird rpm oscillations but we said that was cause more camber means wheel spin on corner exit. Apparently not
 
I would have thought he would have accounted for spring pressures and built in a little margin with his choice...Or was that made using titanium retention and whatnot?
 
I would have thought he would have accounted for spring pressures and built in a little margin with his choice...Or was that made using titanium retention and whatnot?
Valve springs were calculated. I went ferrea beehive. Titanium retainers. Real high end. Machine shop tested pressures at 88-92lbs across all springs. They were 90lbs springs. There shouldn’t have been valve float.

Cams do not have massive lift but they do have massive duration. Any little bit of valve float would’ve been game over. This is why I spent the extra 300$ on Ferrea vs Supertech. Bummer


Once I disassemble we’ll know more. If all the pistons have valve marks then we’ll know. Also curious to see what the rod journal will tell us
 
Congrats on retaining a podium finish! It was great to meet up even tho I didnt have a lot of time.
Too bad @Awafrican you couldnt make it. I was hoping to meet you too!
Here are a couple vids I recorded right before...
Gotovato @ Ontario Time Attack 1
Gotovato @ Ontraio Time Attack 2
I cant wait to see what the teardown shows and the Monster K24 to come!!
Nice clips! That first one coming out of the final corner is awesome. Full wot there lol no lifting!!

The second clip shows turn 7 considered one of the scariest on the track. Down hill off camber and still a 56-60mph minimum speed. It’s a pretty gnarly feeling going through that corner at full commitment.

2025 we’ll have something new for sure. Still not 100% sure on what though. It’ll be NA again that’s confirmed lol
 
Carnage. Everything’s fucked. Absolutely every single thing. Cams seems to be OK but I don’t know if I should trust the valve train. This is messed up LOL

Took out the bellhousing in my freshly rebuilt trans
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Half a wrist pin
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Rod small end
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That’s it for now. Still have a few theories on the failure but tear down should show us exactly what happened. That’ll be next weekend. Planning to pull the motor on Sunday
 
Engines ready to come out. Gonna pick up the hoist from my buddy on Friday then Sunday I’m pulling the motor and disassembling.

I have at least one theory to prove/disprove on the failure.
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Building for the road course...again (again) when?
Haha. I thought about calling it a day after this but literally everyone who heard that yelled at me.

SO

the rebuild will begin like soon as we have this engine apart and diagnosed.

I have 3 options for the next build. Not sure what to do

Forum friend offering to send me a long rod setup for the cost of shipping. That’s rods/pistons. That would be a 10k rpm all day setup

Second option, if my other 3 rods/pistons are OK I’ll just buy a single rod/piston and rebuild with the spare k20 block/crank I have

third option, budget k24 to get me by the rest of the season then plan to do a full kill k24 build whenever I can afford it. Basically start collecting parts asap.


Not sure what direction I’m gonna go yet. Any and all input is always welcome.


I can say the car was competitive as is. 2 podium in 2 races in pretty sick considering the competition. I don’t see boost in my future anytime soon so the above options are basically it to get me back out there
 
What's the ratio on the long rod setup? 1.9:1? I want to target 1.8 personally. Maybe do same thing but overbuilt a bit more...I'm wondering if you didn't get a bad bit of gas and/or oil vapors into the combustion chamber. Might want to consider upping the octane for the next build JIC.
 
What's the ratio on the long rod setup? 1.9:1? I want to target 1.8 personally. Maybe do same thing but overbuilt a bit more...I'm wondering if you didn't get a bad bit of gas and/or oil vapors into the combustion chamber. Might want to consider upping the octane for the next build JIC.
Stock rod ratio is 1.62, long rod ratio is 1.73. The setup made some solid power on the previous owners car but that was also a no budget build. Huge CNC porting, ITBs, custom header. The works. Not sure it makes sense for me.

I am thinking to rebuild with the parts i have if they are in OK shape.

Our biggest theory currently is a bent wrist pin. With how the small end deformed it makes some sense. My shop owner showed me a similar piston using the same wrist pin from his turbo k24 engine. The wrist pin was oval and bent. It had to be hammered out and it aint going back into that piston.

We didnt think much about it for my build cause NA k20 BUT apparently a k24 at 7000rpm with 15psi of boost is equivalent to my k20 at 9200rpm in terms of load.

IF the other pistons show signs of binding or and weirdness with the wrist pin in may be SOL. Im not sure it would be wise to reuse the rods/pistons if they show any signs of deformation at the small end?
 
I would take inventory of what can be salvaged from this build and go from there. If you can reuse some parts to save money I would do that
this was my first idea. Reuse the 3 rods/pistons and just opt for the heavy duty wrist pin option. Yes itll add weight, but clearly its needed at the wrist pin.

My shops telling me not to reuse anything though. I get why. If the other rods/pistons show any signs of potential failure it might be too late? im not sure.
 
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