Building for the road course...again

That is a sweet rig for sure. Price seems low to me
He had it listed for higher. Has since dropped the price. It’s 11,500cad which seems to be inline with other trucks of this year. This one is just exceptionally clean. People just aren’t buying these big older SUVs I guess. I know it ain’t great on gas lol

It’s pretty sick. I think it’s the right answer. It’s gonna get a massive stereo immediately most likely
 
Looking at some wear from the last race. Much less than expected. Kept it clean drove with less scrub. Very tidy as they say. Front tires liked that. These were stickers. Plenty of life left.

Alignment looks good.
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Brake pads. These started at 20mm. All 4 were about the same. ~18.9-19mm. That’s great. These will last
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Not a ton of wear for the laptime
 
Looks like I’ll be picking up that Tahoe this week.
With a tow rig now my intrusive thoughts of gutting the car and literally 5” hole sawing every single panel in the rear to make it sub 2500lbs are coming through strong.

this car around 2500lbs would be fucking dumb. People would 100% protest me and they’ll probably make a rule about it lol
 
One series I run in I’m free to delete everything behind the B pillars.

the other series I’d take some penalty points for this but it may be worth it. Something I’m considering
 
Squeezing the absolute fuck out of the car.

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One big note, the car was on a compromised setup. Hankook RS4 tires in a 245/235 stagger. This setup is about 1.5 seconds slower then my CRS competition setup. My goal of the day was to come as close as possible to my personal best which was set with with the built engine and fresh sticker 255/225 CRS tires. I wanted to be within 1.5 seconds.
I ended up within 1.25seconds of my PB so that was an amazing achievement. Car needed to be driven differently to find the time. Few line changes, few attack changes. It took some work and the best part is there still 4 tenths in the car as it was
 
Kudos for driver mod. What's the power difference between now and the built motor?
Based on virtual dyno peak power at 8800rpm is the same but 4000-6000 is night and day. The built motor was a total killer in the midrange. That would be my corner exit specially out of these slower corners.


In the data you can see I’m pedaling the built motor where as im completely flat in the same place with the current engine setup.

Adapting to a compromised car was part of my exercise yesterday and being down on midrange means WOT much earlier to compensate
 
Chasing down my buddies Hyundai. This thing is a 1.6T with bolt ons and a tune. Coilovers, brakes, 245/225 stagger tires, alignment. A solid track prepped car. Interwebs says his car is around 240whp 280wtq with the tune and bolt ons.

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Did you end up buying the Tahoe? I highly recommend getting HPTuners right away and disabling DoD and tuning the 6L80. There are a lot of small improvements that can be had by just doing those.

I used software called BC Trans to adjust the tables for mine. Pretty easy to use. I can also email you my old 2011 Silverado tune for you to use as a reference.
 
Did you end up buying the Tahoe? I highly recommend getting HPTuners right away and disabling DoD and tuning the 6L80. There are a lot of small improvements that can be had by just doing those.

I used software called BC Trans to adjust the tables for mine. Pretty easy to use. I can also email you my old 2011 Silverado tune for you to use as a reference.
The guy tried to pull a fast one and raised the price on me after he had to spend a few bucks on certification. Our deal was asking price certified. Not a dollar more. I walked.


He messaged me today saying he’s willing to do the original deal again so we’ll see lol.


I did read about the cylinder deactivation shit and id love to turn it off. When I did a quick google on the delete I kept seeing kits with lifters and a cam and I thought the engine had to come apart to disable this shit so that was a shock.

If I can do it with HPtuners then 100% I will. Any help would be great but let’s see if I end up with this thing lol
 
You can disable the DoD system through the computer and ideally install non DoD lifters. However just turning the system off in the ECU drops the failure percentage by at least 80 to 90 percent.

I disabled mine with just the computer and never had any problems. The issue comes down to when the lifters need to un latch. The get stuck and that's when they need replacement. If they dont ever latch then they probably wont fail.

A new camshaft is required when installing non DoD lifters because the duration is different on those cylinders.
 
You can disable the DoD system through the computer and ideally install non DoD lifters. However just turning the system off in the ECU drops the failure percentage by at least 80 to 90 percent.

I disabled mine with just the computer and never had any problems. The issue comes down to when the lifters need to un latch. The get stuck and that's when they need replacement. If they dont ever latch then they probably wont fail.

A new camshaft is required when installing non DoD lifters because the duration is different on those cylinders.
Great info thank you for this. If and when I do get the Tahoe this has got to be first on the list
 

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