Car sat for a long time. Crank, No Start...

How much gas is in the tank if under half just fill it up with fresh gas and let the car run for a bit. Gasoline is a fantastic solvent and will wash away the varnish that has built up from evaporating gas
 
Easter Bunny said:
How much gas is in the tank if under half just fill it up with fresh gas and let the car run for a bit. Gasoline is a fantastic solvent and will wash away the varnish that has built up from evaporating gas
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About half a tank actually… lol I might just drain it, or drain as much as I can fit in my big gas can, and then put 5 gallons or so of fresh gas in.


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Like EB said could just need to run with fresh gas, sitting there is gonna blow soot out, plus leaks in the intake system don't help
 
It didn't want to start this morning, put pedal to the floor to turn off injectors for a bit and then when i let up off the throttle it started after a few cranks. I set the rpm to 2-3k for a few minutes and it seemed to hold 600-ish rpm with no issues. Aired up the tires, tightened everything down, and gave it about a mile drive.

Still using the old gas, I will be doing an oil change, gas, etc. tomorrow.

Before the car sat for a few years it was smoking at idle. I had narrowed it down to the most likely issue being the turbo seals. It is OEM as far as I know and about 115k miles. I'm planning to use this as a daily for a while, so do you think the best route would be to do a rebuild? Or go get a cheaper replacement, rebuilt, or used turbo?

The car has no second gear, so I'll be in the market for a replacement transmission as well here soon. May end up doing the transmission, clutch (never replaced, but I don't think it was ever slipping), and turbo together.

Front suspension is clunky, so I'll be trying to figure that out here soon as well... exciting
 
Most common cause of smoking turbo is poor crank case ventilation not actually turbo seals, altho that can be a symptom of it, probably pcv valve. Not sure what oil you're using but please don't use rotella.

As for turbos only one really doing rebuilt OEM is Chris ward turbo chargers but for that cost I'd jus they a bnr turbo s1 or s2 one of them is drop in, s3 if you want more pep that'll need hpfp internals and a tune tho
 
Good catch, I definitely did not replace that back before it died when I was trying to figure out why it was smoking. I will do that first and see how it goes. I took it for a spin around the block, let it unwind just a little and so far it’s holding idle fine.

It’s got a bit of… chain slap when starting? ( if that’s what you call it ) is there an easier way to deal with that other than an entire timing service? Noise goes away in a second or so and nothing similar while running it throughout rpm range.

Do the turbo seals require an entire rebuild or can you service them alone?


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Awafrican said:
If timing chain is slapping it's a full timing job what's the mileage?

Turbo is full rebuild, if you want an OEM one I'd say get a rebuilt one from CW https://www.cwturbochargers.com/pro...1&_sid=5d0abbc63&_ss=r&variant=43238857146583
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I keep forgetting to check. I believe its around 115k. I'm wanting to get the whole car set to be a daily asap, so I think that rebuilt from CW might be the best bet for the budget. Otherwise I'm looking at off-brand turbos to be able to stay within budget, but that PCV valve is only $30 so I will give that a try before replacing the turbo.

A buddy and I will probably end up pulling the motor. The transmission, turbo, timing, clutch should all be much easier to do all at once with the motor out. Then just new suspension all around and it should be good. Still have a decent knock in the front end when hitting uneven road. Hoping suspension will take care of that.
 
Awafrican said:
Timing service is 15k overdue so if you're suspicious of it definitely time for a timing job imo. Now 5w40 can bandaid the turbo if crank case ventilation is sorted.

Timing how to: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/

Our oil thread: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/
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Dang Timing looks like a much bigger job than it was on my B5 S4. I'll read through that a couple more times and see if it's something I want to tackle myself. If I'm troubleshooting the idle smoking anyways, should I just use the PP 5w-40 on this initial oil change? Or do you think it would be worth it to see if the PCV fixes the smoke first? PCV valve comes in Wednesday, looks like sort of a PITA job, but not smoking at red lights and drive-throughs is worth it lol.
 
Awafrican said:
Most common cause of smoking turbo is poor crank case ventilation not actually turbo seals, altho that can be a symptom of it, probably pcv valve. Not sure what oil you're using but please don't use rotella.

As for turbos only one really doing rebuilt OEM is Chris ward turbo chargers but for that cost I'd jus they a bnr turbo s1 or s2 one of them is drop in, s3 if you want more pep that'll need hpfp internals and a tune tho
Click to expand...
I'm looking into this PCV valve replacement, seems easy enough but someone did bring up a retaining clip that can get damaged that holds the pcv valve to the oil seperator. Do you know if it is this part by chance? LF01-10-509 https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-pcv-valve-retainer-lf0110509
I'm assuming if I don't go from under then I need to replace the IM gasket as well? Does the gasket on the oil separator need to be replaced?
 
Do you guys think I have any saving graces here? Had a misfire pop up on cyl3, compression tested and cyl3 was at 120. All others were about 165.
Swapped the coil packs on 2&3, but couldn’t get the dtc to pop back up even though it was still misfiring. Couldn’t seem to find a parameter to look at misfires on FORScan.

Starting to feel like I’ll have to just get rid of it at this point…


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How much have you driven it since it started running are you still on old gas? Have you checked the spark plug gap? Does the battery have a full charge and I mean check with a voltage tester not just strong enough to start the car
 
Easter Bunny said:
How much have you driven it since it started running are you still on old gas? Have you checked the spark plug gap? Does the battery have a full charge and I mean check with a voltage tester not just strong enough to start the car
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I’ve not driven it much since it’s not registered, was trying to get it inspection worthy asap.

The gas is still the old gas at the moment, newborn and weather hasn’t permitted much work on the car lately. I just had enough time to squeeze out a compression test yesterday.

I did check the plugs during the compression test all of them sitting around .028

I’m not sure on the battery, it had enough charge to get higher compression on the other 3 cylinders. It is a new battery, but I can test the voltage.

I’m going to use the mirror on the borescope to inspect cylinder 3 some more when I can. Hoping maybe the cause is carbon buildup. Although I’m not 100% certain what it should look like in there.


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I think you need to work through that gas and get a couple of heat cycles in it before you can be certain what is actually wrong with it.

I have had instances where my car has sat for like two weeks and run shitty for the first 50 miles or so
 
I'll wait to do this until after I get some good gas in it, and do a chem soak, but does anyone know, or have a link to documentation of how I could troubleshoot the cause of the low compression with a leakdown test if it isn't resolved? So far it seems I could test the rings by putting some oil in the cylinder (wet test?), not sure how I could test the valves/injector seals other than just running the chem soak and replacing the injector seals.

I've been looking and it seems there is potential for it to be a few simple(er) things that could be causing low compression.. injector seals and carbon buildup causing valves to not properly seat. Mainly concerned about the low compression at this point (obviously), but a side note, the car has not smoked at idle yet. It smells bad, but prior to the car sitting for years it would smoke out an entire drive-through immediately after getting to idle. I'm a bit curious why it has stopped happening now. Since I've had the car running it has idled warm for over 15 minutes multiple times with no sign of smoke at all.

I have a IM gasket kit waiting for me at autozone, because I was going to remove IM to do the PCV. May as well get some injector seals and replace them while the IM is off. Should I try to clean the injectors at the same time?

To try to get the p0303 code to come back (it never would pop back up) I did give it the beans a couple times, and it actually felt like it pulled good, but that may just be because I've had 5 years of seat time in a n/a forester and newer n/a Mazda 3. Been a while since I've got to feel the turbo spool up.
 
if you are pulling the intake you should clean the intake valves as well, could be a contributing factor in the low compression
 
Awafrican said:
wonder if it's carbon from sitting, some folks have had success with a chem soak https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/another-piston-soak-success.16255/#post-114533

gotta get that fresh gas in there as well
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Would chem soak get the valve faces? I notice in the write-up they said not needing to fill the cylinder, but valves are at the top? Or is the fluid going to climb up to the valves? I don't see any reason why you couldn't, so could you just fill it so you're sure the valves are exposed to the cleaner? Or is spinning the crank one full rotation going to expose the valves to the cleaner enough to break down the carbon?

Additionally, I may have misunderstood what it would take to replace the injector seals. On my other car, it was just an o ring on the injector, pop it off, pop on the new one, put the injector back. It looks like there are whole sets with 3 seals and an o-ring, etc. for this car? Can you replace just the O-ring, or would I need to replace the 3 additional seals per injector? I'm not really wanting to spend the extra money at the moment for something like the overspeed seals.
EDIT: after talking to the dealer to price out seals he says it's 5 items per injector, a total cost of $550... from the dealer.. geeze.
EDIT, EDIT: Nevermind, edge's kit is for one injector, so that $400 for the set as well. overspeed is sounding like the cheaper option now. I may just leave the injector seal issue to a process of elimination...

I think I'll need to gauge whether or not I'm comfortable cleaning the valves when the IM is off once I get there. I'll be right there I guess so I may as well...
 
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