Car sat for a long time. Crank, No Start...

the soak for the pistons is for the carbon on the rings. to clean the intake valves you do this
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/valve-cleaning-how-to-do-it-and-why.5969/
or
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-your-valves.9851/
or really a combo

overspeed seals are amazing but that only takes care of injector to head you also want new injector to rail, you can just use the GB reman kits off eBay for everything if you're looking to daily drive with a stock turbo.

thread with link to non OEM parts that work including injector seals (you can also just find them on rock auto under your vehicle)
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/proven-parts-list-common-parts-that-dont-suck.4476/
 
OP I saw you asked about how to perform leakdown to try and figure out where your possible issues are. For that I would point to YouTube.

EricTheCarGuy and ScannerDanner are both excellent channels for troubshooting and both have content on Leakdown and Compression testing. I'm sure there are others but you'll have to sift through the bullshit to finds the diamonds.
 
The injector seals we are talking about are the metal seals between the injector and head. The only way to remove the carbon from the intake valves is from the intake side spray the cleaner and scrape it off. Or blast it off with walnut media
 
So I did a compression test with a cap of oil in cylinder 3 and compression went up to around 150. (Increase of 30, and engine was not warm)

At 165/165/120/165 what would you guys do? I definitely cannot afford to have it rebuilt right now. And I’m assuming that wet compression test is saying a rebuild will need to happen very soon.

Drive it until I can afford to pay for a rebuild, or until it dies? The car is bone stock 8.5/10 exterior and 9/10 interior, but needs at a minimum $2,000 in suspension, transmission, etc. (and that’s cheap parts) I don’t know what a rebuild costs but I’m assuming it’s no less than $3,000 parts and labor.


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Ok Ok Ok you're right! :oops:
I don't really want to drive the bad gas out of it because it's unregistered and im still over half a tank.
I'll drain the gas, give her half a tank of 91, and drive down the outage roads. Maybe take the highway on the way back.

I'm just nervous because 2 weeks ago my other car that sat for a while jumped timing on the first crank and dropped the valves. Still feeling the burn from that. :(
 
Totally illegal but can't you just put the plate from the other car on and stay off of main roads?
 
Awafrican said:
the soak for the pistons is for the carbon on the rings. to clean the intake valves you do this
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/valve-cleaning-how-to-do-it-and-why.5969/
or
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-your-valves.9851/
or really a combo

overspeed seals are amazing but that only takes care of injector to head you also want new injector to rail, you can just use the GB reman kits off eBay for everything if you're looking to daily drive with a stock turbo.

thread with link to non OEM parts that work including injector seals (you can also just find them on rock auto under your vehicle)
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/proven-parts-list-common-parts-that-dont-suck.4476/
Click to expand...
Forgive my misunderstanding then... The Overspeed seals are the only seal between injector -> head, and the other set of 4 seals is for injector -> rail. That makes more sense looking at it now... I guess I really paid no attention to the image of the injector before.

The goal at the moment is to keep the powertrain stock so I will throw that GB set in the cart.
I'm assuming the lower seal would be the bottom right seal in the image?
 

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Easter Bunny said:
Totally illegal but can't you just put the plate from the other car on and stay off of main roads?
Click to expand...
I'm thinking I'll have better luck talking my way out of an expired tags ticket... lol
I'll just tell them I couldn't pass inspection and I replaced some parts and needed to make sure everything got installed correctly - maybe they'll be understanding.

Hopefully I won't have to find out.!

Awafrican said:
wonder if it's carbon from sitting, some folks have had success with a chem soak https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/another-piston-soak-success.16255/#post-114533

gotta get that fresh gas in there as well
Click to expand...
Do you know if ChemDip would be appropriate to use for this instead? They had b12 ChemTool at autozone, but it was a spray can. They had ChemDip in liquid form which I ended up getting instead, but now that I'm thinking about it I want to make sure this would work.
 
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Mtnbker3531 said:
I think I have a can of AC Delco Top engine cleaner laying around un opened from when I was going to do this. Then I realized I needed a motor o_O

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/low-compression-help-and-possible-fix-acdelco-x66p.7695/

Anyhow if I do and you are interested I could just send it to you provided shipping isn't stupid.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the offer!
Do you think I shouldn't use the ChemDip? Lady at autozone said I can return it unopened, so no issues there. I think she'd even take it back opened to be honest. I'm no chemist, but from what I've seen so far it's a similar product, but doesn't evaporate as fast as the b12, and isn't as flamable.
Is the formulation you have still obtainable? I read they may have weakened it a bit over the years. If it can be bought, I don't mind buying a can.

edit: Actually, looking on the AZ website it says they have the b12 in liquid form in stock. Maybe I just didn't notice the difference between the cans or something. I will go back and check again.

edit, edit: AZ had the pourable b12, it was in a different section. I'll return the chemdip and use the chemtool instead. pourable was marketed as injector cleaner while the other was marketed carb cleaner. Ingredients list showed it to be the same thing with the exclusion of the pressurized CO2.
 
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Aciex said:
Forgive my misunderstanding then... The Overspeed seals are the only seal between injector -> head, and the other set of 4 seals is for injector -> rail. That makes more sense looking at it now... I guess I really paid no attention to the image of the injector before.

The goal at the moment is to keep the powertrain stock so I will throw that GB set in the cart.
I'm assuming the lower seal would be the bottom right seal in the image?
Click to expand...
correct and you can use that for the head too folks are reporting success with it at stock power levels
 
Went to siphon the gas, of course you can't just siphon it. Pulled ITFP cover and of course its wayyy too small. I somewhat expected that as it's been the case with every car i've pulled that cover on.

To avoid cutting to get to ITFP, where can I disconnect the low pressure line from the hpfp?
Would is be easier/better to connect to the output of the ITFP?

Am I seeing this right in the pictures? Blue clipped hose is fuel? second picture maybe an alternative?
98c15c963e83c31e48e09e025d3d167f.jpg
a5ffab51b542d8e7f570cc5f3212d8aa.jpg
 
1st pic unplug that hose and attach a different hose to the output of the ITFP. Route said hose to wherever you plan the pump the fuel to.

That's the method I used to drain my tank. Make a jumper for the appropriate contacts in the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood.
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
1st pic unplug that hose and attach a different hose to the output of the ITFP. Route said hose to wherever you plan the pump the fuel to.

That's the method I used to drain my tank. Make a jumper for the appropriate contacts in the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify this is the F/PUMP relay not the F/PUMP2 relay?


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koeo shows 60psi so should be able to although it's time limited iirc however it's not like OP needs much out heck he could just top it off...
 
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