Car sat for a long time. Crank, No Start...

Easter Bunny said:
Can you just turn the ignition on to run the pump?
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I mean, I would think so, but all the posts talking about alternative options made me think that it doesn’t really work for some reason.

If I want to drain it empty it’s about 6 gallons or so.


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Aciex said:
I mean, I would think so, but all the posts talking about alternative options made me think that it doesn’t really work for some reason.

If I want to drain it empty it’s about 6 gallons or so.


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Jumping it is just doing the same thing as turning the key. Runs for 1 seconds and turns off. So I’ll be here for a bit lol


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It will but it's only pumps to a point and stops so it's a LOT of ON/OFF. I tried it initially and the relay jumper method is the best way if you have more than a couple gallons.

Aciex said:
Jumping it is just doing the same thing as turning the key. Runs for 1 seconds and turns off. So I’ll be here for a bit lol


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No something is wrong there's a way to make that pump run continuously its been a few years since I've done it though. I remember watching my 5 gal gas cans fill and timing when I should pull the jumper so I didn't spill.

I pumped around 13 gallons out when I did mine.
 
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Ok so I drained it down till the gas light was on, put 7 gallons of 93 in it.

Drove it to and from the gas station no issue, let it idle 15minutes no smoke.

Went and took it on a 20 mile drive, no issues at all minus definitely needing to replace the brakes or at the very least clean them.

Still misfiring, but can’t tell if it moved from 3 to 2 because it won’t pop a dtc.

Been idling 15 minutes after the drive, no smoke.

I did notice what I believe to be new oil under the recirc valve.(see image)

No smoke at all driving, car boosted fine in all gears.

Misfire is either nonexistent or not noticeable outside of idling. Pulls are smooth no hiccups.
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Easter Bunny said:
Brakes probably just need a couple of hard stops to be useful but I would paln on swapping them soon
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Yeah I’ve got some in the cart. They were real rusty. After the drive they knocked the rust off but they are pulsating pretty bad.

Going to drive it again today for probably another 20 miles or so, then move the S4 out of the garage, put the speed in, maybe do the pcv since I already have it even though it isn’t smoking, probably change the old oil completely out, setup the soak, and then tomorrow drive it a bit, change the oil again, and then compression test.

Or do you think I should give it some more seat time to open up on its own first?


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I had it in the garage and started it up to move it out, and came back to this. It's not wet, more like soot. What do you guys think it is? Just crap in the exhaust releasing?
 

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Posted my locked up S4 for sale over the weekend and spent most of the time getting it sold, but have a little stack of cash now and ready to do this chemsoak.

I was reading over some things to make sure I do this right. I didn't see this come up on any posts here, but I did see it on some posts on other sites. For those of you who have done the chem soak, did you put oil in the cylinders after? Some people had voiced concern that the soak would eat away the oil and then the rings rub dry when starting the car. Valid concern?

Slightly unrelated, the shifter on this car snapped which seems like a common issue. It snapped where there is a hole in the shaft for what I believe is the reverse lockout? Would something like the CS adjustable short shifter work as a replacement? Or would I need to pickup some other parts as well?
 
So I've just refilled the cylinders after the initial soak. Something I did notice, not sure if I should be concerned or not:
  • 1&3 were dry, but 2&4 were wet.
  • when cranking by hand there was a slight clunk at what seemed to be on every full rotation. I did not notice this when I cranked it by hand for the first soak. Car hasn't run since, so I doubt anything broke... any ideas what it could be?
I'll probably end on this soak, and change the oil. Worst case I soak again and have to change oil again.

Originally I was concerned because 3 (low compression) was dry, but 4 and 2 were wet. (didn't get to 1 yet) thinking it all leaked past the rings, but then I got to cylinder 1 and it was dry, but had fine compression before. Any idea what could have caused it? valves open allowing evaporation? I had plugs installed hand tight after cranking it by hand. I did not crank with the plugs in.
 
Alright...
tl:dr - did the soak, changed the oil, went on drive, oil light came on, ticking started, car died, brought it home, car turns over, won't start, manual turning of crank had a pretty solid resistance point, resistance point should cyl1 at top of stroke? touching or almost touching valves.

I let the second soak sit, then sucked up/absorbed the leftover on cyl 2 & 4.
I started the car and let it idle until up to temp while I simultaneously charged the AC. Good news, cold AC. Bad news, keep reading.
Something interesting to note is that I did not see any smoke at all during this process. Reading other posts, it seemed like smoke was an outcome of doing this soak.
After the car ran for about 10-15 minutes I went ahead and changed the oil for 5w40, put in a new filter, and took it for a drive.

I got a few miles down the road and I saw that the oil light came on. First thought was to look in the rearview, I saw no oil, about 5-10 seconds after the light came on, I started to hear a tick, so I pulled over and the next shoulder which was about 10-20 seconds away. At this point the ticking had become much louder. I check the engine bay and there's no signs of oil, none under the car, just a small amount of oil smoke that went away quickly. Checked oil level and it was right where it was when I left the house. Anyways I give everything a look over and then start the car one more time, does not sound good at all, I turn the car back off after 3-4 seconds.

Unfortunately, where I broke down was a skinny 2 lane (i pulled over at the end of a gravel driveway) and to get out of there asap since I have no registration on the car, yet I called a friend to come flat tow me. I wasn't going to be able to get turned around so I started the car up to position it where it is coming out of the driveway. Pull forward slowly, put it in reverse and as I get into reverse it dies, won't start. Luckily, I had moved enough to get it going the opposite direction.

Got the car home safely, parked it out on the curb because I can't get it up my driveway right now. I did just a little bit of looking yesterday and this is what I found:
  • Car does appear to turn over and if I remember right, doesn't seem to make any bad noises while trying to start, but no combustion.
  • turning crank by hand with plugs out brought me to a pretty solid resistance point that I didn't want to play with too much.
  • out of curiosity I brought out the borescope and checked each cylinder and it looks to have stopped where cyl1 is at the top of its stroke? Or at least near the top. Maybe related maybe not.
  • Code P0011-c (odb2) and P0011-ff(PCM) from FORScan. No other codes engine related.
Any ideas? I think turning over without issue, but having that resistance turning it over by hand was weird.
 
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