Cas' 800+ or Bust Build

[CMajor]

Don't be a bitch; that's within spec.

 

[CMajor]

Well I have some good news and bad news. The good news is that I dropped off my block at @Need2pu's shop so he's just waiting on me to order pistons before sending it to the machine shop. The bad news is that Manley contacted me back and said I would need a group buy (10 sets) to get a custom set of pistons. I decided in interest of time that I'm just going to go with the CP-E 10.5:1 pistons. I'm a little disappointed on not being able to run 12.5:1 but I'd just rather get my car back on the road. I'm tired of driving a Civic as my daily. Oh well things happen. I'm happy that I finally made a decision and I think there will be some gains over the stock CR. Plus I don't have to worry about keeping E in my tank all the time if I decided to make a trip in my car.

 

[Redline]

Can you spot the difference?
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/Cas_Minor/media/Car pictures/8D50477B-0779-4238-8B5A-871C4EE2198D_zpskj2qtwgp.jpg.html][/URL]

You say you were at only 400wtq, but I'm curious if you'd answer a few questions?
1. How long were you at that wtq level?
2. How steep was torque ramp up and where was wtq peak?
3. Did you ever WOT under 3k in 1st-4th, 3.5k in 5th, or at all in 6th?
4. How many miles did you run that tune before the rod bend, and how many miles were on the engine?

Thx for any insight you can share.

 

[CMajor]

You say you were at only 400wtq, but I'm curious if you'd answer a few questions?
1. How long were you at that wtq level?
2. How steep was torque ramp up and where was wtq peak?
3. Did you ever WOT under 3k in 1st-4th, 3.5k in 5th, or at all in 6th?
4. How many miles did you run that tune before the rod bend, and how many miles were on the engine?

Thx for any insight you can share.

1. I'd say we finished the tune about a month before it happened.
2. See V-dyno graph. It was pretty much perfect IMO. Peak TQ was at 5200 in the blue run and 6200 in the yellow but it was pretty much flat after 5200.
3. No
4. Not 100% sure but right around 4K after the install and on the engine I have 48K

I still think my car would be running if I hadn't messed with the settings on the WOT box. What ever I did made me over boost even with load control in the tune. I noticed my FFS and launch control stopped working the day before so I went into the WOT box settings and everything was changed from when I set them initially. I set up the settings (apparently wrong) then that night on my way home from work I went to FFS and overboosted. I didn't bend the rod that night. I felt it overboosting so I let out. I did it again but logged it happening and the tune what it was supposed to. Next day on my way to work I FFS'd 3rd-4th and didn't have time to let out before the rod bent. Hit 33 psi (targeting 28) and 9.8* of knock. I wasn't logging unfortunately and it all happened because some car was going extremely slow in front of me pretty much the entire way to work on a two lane road. They finally turned off and I let 'er rip tater chip. Obviously I should of just rear ended them to speed them up. The heartache would have been much less haha

 

[Redline]

1. I'd say we finished the tune about a month before it happened.
2. See V-dyno graph. It was pretty much perfect IMO. Peak TQ was at 5200 in the blue run and 6200 in the yellow but it was pretty much flat after 5200.
3. No
4. Not 100% sure but right around 4K after the install and on the engine I have 48K



I still think my car would be running if I hadn't messed with the settings on the WOT box. What ever I did made me over boost even with load control in the tune. I noticed my FFS and launch control stopped working the day before so I went into the WOT box settings and everything was changed from when I set them initially. I set up the settings (apparently wrong) then that night on my way home from work I went to FFS and overboosted. I didn't bend the rod that night. I felt it overboosting so I let out. I did it again but logged it happening and the tune what it was supposed to. Next day on my way to work I FFS'd 3rd-4th and didn't have time to let out before the rod bent. Hit 33 psi (targeting 28) and 9.8* of knock. I wasn't logging unfortunately and it all happened because some car was going extremely slow in front of me pretty much the entire way to work on a two lane road. They finally turned off and I let 'er rip tater chip. Obviously I should of just rear ended them to speed them up. The heartache would have been much less haha

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to ride out my stock block as long as possible. At my power level, I just have to keep things safe in terms of how I drive, keep my alky level up, etc. I hit ~385wtq (in cold weather) @ ~4,500.

It inspires my confidence that it appears overboost was the root issue for you. I guess you didn't run a Guardian Angel? I have one, and have it set just ~1.5psi or so over my boost target. I also notice you look a little lean in your logs; think that had an impact? I'm always in the 11.8 +/- 0.2 AFR range, and I typically trend under 12 AFR for the majority of my WOT pulls. I'm at 73k now and have been at this power level since 42k. Compression looks excellent. It actually went up after I started spraying 100% methanol (I think it cleaned out the combustion chambers and allowed more ring movement/sealing). My setup is a CM10 for extra safety, IDC relief, power equalization throughout the seasons, and valve cleaning.

 

[CMajor]

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to ride out my stock block as long as possible. At my power level, I just have to keep things safe in terms of how I drive, keep my alky level up, etc. I hit ~385wtq (in cold weather) @ ~4,500.

It inspires my confidence that it appears overboost was the root issue for you. I guess you didn't run a Guardian Angel? I have one, and have it set just ~1.5psi or so over my boost target. I also notice you look a little lean in your logs; think that had an impact? I'm always in the 11.8 +/- 0.2 AFR range, and I typically trend under 12 AFR for the majority of my WOT pulls. I'm at 73k now and have been at this power level since 42k. Compression looks excellent. It actually went up after I started spraying 100% methanol (I think it cleaned out the combustion chambers and allowed more ring movement/sealing). My setup is a CM10 for extra safety, IDC relief, power equalization throughout the seasons, and valve cleaning.

I was not running a GA and my AFR targets at WOT are 12 so they weren't lean according to how my tune was setup. @etipp98 ran his car on the stock block at I wanna say in the 530HP/400TQ range and that block is still running today in someone else's car. I'm sure he was targeting a 12 AFR as well.

 

[etipp98]

11.7 afr i was targeting

 

[Redline]

One last question (don't wanna threadjack): were both of you guys getting your extra fueling from methanol for the cooling/safety? Or maybe an E-mix + methanol??

 

[CMajor]

11.7 afr i was targeting

I forgot that you tuned your car and Mark did the timing. Disregard that part of my post then @Redline. I had a 50/50 E-mix. Not sure what he was running.

 

[etipp98]

6th port fueling... e40 mix

 

[CMajor]

This crazy deal came along when I was surfing facebook tonight so I picked up my wheels that I've been wanting for awhile now. Got them for 1500 shipped, saved 700 dollars with this deal rather than buying them from a dealer. 18x9 +40. I'm probably going to need a roll and pull on my fenders plus spacers but I think it'll be worth it. Now to search for some tires...hmmm
Enkei RS05RR

 

[Sho]

If you're gonna run those wheels, you're gonna need to run e60 mix for safety, Cas. You need more alky

 

[Realgib3]

You were running more E than Jake's stock block setup, that's the only reason for the slight lean out in AFR. When you start bumping the E up a lot, especially with the secondaries spraying so much, the car starts to become really inefficient at burning fuel if you keep using gas AFR targets.

 

[CMajor]

Small update, CP-E is having issues with their wholesaler so I'm waiting on them to get my pistons. I contacted SP63 yesterday about their 3.7 final drive and brass shift forks so hopefully I'll hear from them soon. Also ordered 1/2" ARP2000 (Nissan Pulsar gti-r) head studs so there's that. Can't put my block in the machine shop until we have the pistons and head studs in hand so I'm mainly waiting on those. The 16wfab intake mani seems to be taking a bit longer than originally expected. I think Anthony is getting a new CNC machine so hopefully that's done soon. I will probably have that before I get my pistons from CP-E

 

[CMajor]

Okay so a fantastic update. CP-E actually wasn't the issue. Rally Sport Direct kept giving Oddball Industries the run around on ordering my pistons through CP-E. With that being said I went ahead and placed an order for my Stage 2 CP-E pistons, 10.5:1 compression ratio, stock bore. My SP63 brass shift forks came in for 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th. Still waiting on the 3.7 final drive. @etipp98 dropped off his DSS 5.9 level axles at Oddball (or I believe he did). Quaife LSD was dropped off last time I was up in Cleveland. 1/2" head studs are in and look beefy. Still waiting on the intake manifold.

Picture of one of my new wheels because why not. They look amazing in person, the picture doesn't do them justice.

I moved apartments over the last couple of weeks and had to get my car movable. Put the KW V3s on and put my hood back on to transport it. It made me feel good to start putting the car back together. Not too much longer!

Also I'm working on designing a larger fuel basket to hold two pumps and not suck the basket dry under half a tank. I just started on that last night, never done that before but I'm open to suggestions if anyone has experience. This is just a rough design and I'm not done with it yet. I'm modeling it off of the current basket. Anthony at 16wfab agreed to machine it for me and I'll be getting it anodized once it's built.

 

[Maisonvi]

Why not just run a remote pickup? That's my plan if I run the feed dry on the stock basket

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[CMajor]

Why not just run a remote pickup? That's my plan if I run the feed dry on the stock basket

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's a possibility but it would be cool just to have a drop in solution that others could just buy without having to cut or modify the stock basket. That was my overall goal with designing it. Squash performance stopped making their double pump setup sometime last year and they don't plan on making it again (I called and asked about it).

 

[Maisonvi]

That's a possibility but it would be cool just to have a drop in solution that others could just buy without having to cut or modify the stock basket. That was my overall goal with designing it. Squash performance stopped making their double pump setup sometime last year and they don't plan on making it again (I called and asked about it).

Yeah, I already had to do my Walbro 450, so its kinda a drop in with the holder I made, but I also wanted to run a return, so I had to add that as well. Still using the stock basket and havent had issues otherwise. The remote pickup would just T in and still use the stock basket if I did it the way I was thinking.

 

[CMajor]

So I'm switching to VersaTune. Just placed my order. Can't wait to rev out to 8K and actually be able to control my car.

Also, getting a 75mm throttle body from @Sho. This was part of the reason for switching to VT but I thought about it more and it just makes more sense to get rid of the accessport. I'm gonna be looking around for a mini tablet to monitor stuff. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
[doublepost=1499101162][/doublepost]Found this guy, unless someone has a better option then I'm probably going to get this. Edit: Well my link isn't working but it's this, Ematic Quad-Core Intel with Windows EWT732BL 7" - 32 GB Tablet. $54.22. Can't get much better than that from my brief searching.

 

[Sho]

It really is disappointing that Cobb seems to not really give a shit about this platform anymore.

Simple stuff like extending the tables out past 7k, etc.

I have a friend that was tuned way back in the day by the guy who is now in charge of the Mazdaspeed platform at Cobb, and when asked about rpm, he said there's too few people that have a turbo that can make power past 7k...which really isn't the case these days.

That and the tables that allow stuff like the 75mm TB to work. The TB I'm sending to Cas, came off a 750whp speed that was tuned using Mazda Edit... And worked. Just sucks that Mazda edit is buggy and not really convenient.