Coolant Alternatives?

Redline

I done fucked up for the last time.
BANNED
I'm probably going to get my coolant done at the oil/lube down the road. They're cool guys, and I've been there numerous times for other things, including inspections. I'm now at 67k miles so I'm going to do coolant. I'd like to do it there because they're going to pressurize/flush out the system really well.

My question is, they use that yellow 100k mile coolant that's "universal." I don't know the name, but wasn't sure if it's okay instead of FL22. Anyone else know? I saw a little on another forum and I think it'd be okay, but wanted some further insight.

Thanks!
 
As far as I know, Peak Global Lifetime Coolant is the only FL22 coolant alternative according to the ratings. That was from a few years ago though, I have no idea if other manufacturers have changed their formulas.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the owner's manual say that the FL22 from the factory is good for 150k miles? Are you just changing for the sake of early preventative maintenance? I'm at 73k miles on mine with no problems, though I'm possibly considering giving the system a good flush and new hoses at 100k just because.
 
As far as I know, Peak Global Lifetime Coolant is the only FL22 coolant alternative according to the ratings. That was from a few years ago though, I have no idea if other manufacturers have changed their formulas.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the owner's manual say that the FL22 from the factory is good for 150k miles? Are you just changing for the sake of early preventative maintenance? I'm at 73k miles on mine with no problems, though I'm possibly considering giving the system a good flush and new hoses at 100k just because.
IDK. I need to look, but you're probably correct. I figure a good flush would be good preventative, like you said.
 
I'm now at 67k miles so I'm going to do coolant. I'd like to do it there because they're going to pressurize/flush out the system really well.
I just confirmed that the owners manual says 120k or 10 years, and 60k or 5 years after that. At least the manual for my 2013 that I downloaded from Mazda.

I've never seen this PEAK stuff being suggested.. might work but might not, from memory I think there is at least one of the requests from Mazda that it does not meet. The commonly discussed alternatives to coolant from the Mazda dealer are Ford Green which comes in concentrate or ready-to-use depending which generation you get of it (I think it's A1 vs. A2), and the more common and less costly Zerex Asian. That's available from O'Reilly and from NAPA.

I wouldn't recommend going with the quickie oil change shop for this because like all of the "flush" services they sell, they often cause problems more than fix things - plus as you noted they have coolant that is not compliant with Asian automakers' recommendations. Just drain your system, fill with deionized water, perform the burping procedure and go driving for 15 minutes. Drain the system again, fill with FL22, perform the burping procedure, be happy and fuhgedaboudit.
[doublepost=1460384111][/doublepost]Just to put it in the same place, you will need 2 gallons of the DI water and 2 gallons of premixed coolant to do this job.
 
Last edited:
i don't trust anyone to do work i can't verify. if i don't SEE them flush, i'm going to assume they drained / refilled. plus, i always assume they're in the back putting generic brand X in the name brand containers out back.
 
I've never seen this PEAK stuff being suggested.. might work but might not, from memory I think there is at least one of the requests from Mazda that it does not meet.

I want to say that at one point I remember the Peak actually saying FL22 compliant on the bottle somewhere. Again, it was a few years ago though. To be honest it's almost gotten to the point where it's so confusing to figure out what auto manufacturers want used in the car that it's almost just worth it to buy the OE stuff from the dealer. Which I guess is exactly what the dealers want...
 
I want to say that at one point I remember the Peak actually saying FL22 compliant on the bottle somewhere. Again, it was a few years ago though.
I'm still waiting for sauce on the Peak. Always good to have another option, but I looked into this heavily about a month ago and nowhere was it mentioned as an option. Furthermore I have seen OG's on MSO/MSF suggesting the Ford and the Zerex with no mention of the Peak. So for now I remain skeptical.
 
i don't trust anyone to do work i can't verify. if i don't SEE them flush, i'm going to assume they drained / refilled. plus, i always assume they're in the back putting generic brand X in the name brand containers out back.
I hear ya, but these guys are my buds. Not close, personal car buddies, like forumers, etc., but sort-of one step below. Trust me, I'm super OCD about who works on my car, LOL.
 
I'm still waiting for sauce on the Peak. Always good to have another option, but I looked into this heavily about a month ago and nowhere was it mentioned as an option. Furthermore I have seen OG's on MSO/MSF suggesting the Ford and the Zerex with no mention of the Peak. So for now I remain skeptical.

I don't blame you...like I said it was quite a while ago when I found that info, and I seem to remember it being buried somewhere deep that it was an option.
 
I don't blame you...like I said it was quite a while ago when I found that info, and I seem to remember it being buried somewhere deep that it was an option.
Then if it exists, dig it up man!
 
Thinking about this more, i really feel like i used peak in my car, too. I'll trust myself that i verified it was ok. I may check again
 
Just use the green "asian" universal stuff and call it a day. Not going to make or break anything on these vehicles.
High five, that was pretty much my point to these delinquents already. Zerex is known good, and the cheapest stuff. Guys, Geoff and I bought some for my car two weeks ago.

I guess Zerex isn't a lot cheaper than the Peak Global at Napa. But if they don't carry it at Advance or O'Reilly that makes it a lot harder to get.

You could just go Mazda:
Template public:_media_site_embed_amazon not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.

These guys (with seemingly good sources) do say you can add a couple different Peaks to the base coolant: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...sion/3501-where-can-i-buy-fl22-coolant-2.html
But I trust this guy more as he sounds like he knows what he's talking about: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../1648902/Re:_Mazda_green_coolant?#Post1648902
and http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../1660213/Re:_Mazda_green_coolant?#Post1660213
In fact, if you look earlier in that thread, someone says the older Mazda coolant orange appears to have the same ingredients as Peak Global Lifetime. Having read the whole thread, I'm convinced to stick with Zerex and be done with it. The coolant in my bottle is deeeeep green so is the right color for FL22/POAT coolant.
[doublepost=1460488067][/doublepost]Napa may have another choice here: http://knowhow.napaonline.com/choose-the-correct-antifreeze-for-your-import-vehicle/
which leads to some "Pentofrost" stuff. But I'm not buying it, sticking with Zerex. :P
 
For zerex, i'm pretty sure you can use whatever online coupon that pep boys has for that. You know, the online 20-30% purchase discounts they generously give.

That usually makes it the cheapest option
 
You guys are making me kinda nervous with this thread -- my tstat went bad last year and I wasn't able to get it swapped out myself (n000000b), so I had the shop down the road take care of it for me; thinking back, I have zero idea what type of coolant they put into the car at the end of the job...might have to redo it myself for peace of mind.
 
might have to redo it myself for peace of mind.
That's never a bad idea.

Just to add to the discussion, I looked at the coolant replacement procedure in the shop manual and they don't even have you flush out with distilled water, they just tell you to drain the rad, fill with the new fluid, and run the burping procedure. I bet that's why the later intervals are half the length of the original, because you've only replaced half or so of the fluid so the anti-corrosion package is only halfway renewed. That procedure would have the advantage over the distilled water flush that you wouldn't dilute the mix, so you would protect the freezing point better. I'm not sure what I'd do but luckily that's a long way off for me.
 
newbie question, but -- what exactly is the harm in running non-FL22 coolant? seal issues? I'm going to contact the shop to see if I can verify what they use(d), and likely change it again myself to be safe, but am just wondering.
 
newbie question, but -- what exactly is the harm in running non-FL22 coolant? seal issues? I'm going to contact the shop to see if I can verify what they use(d), and likely change it again myself to be safe, but am just wondering.

Honestly coolant problems generally aren't related to what coolant is run but mixing coolant or other compatibility problems. Here are some pages for you to review about the Dex-cool problems GM had:
http://www.reuters.com/article/gm-settlement-idUSN2735011520080327
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/what-do-you-know-about-dex-cool/3224/page1/
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f53/gm-dex-coolant-really-bad-58346/

There is theoretically some small risk of having problems with seals/gaskets, since Mazda would only have tested them with the FL22 coolant, but I believe the head gaskets are of fairly standard types on the MZR DISI and therefore while it's a risk it's probably not a large one as long as you monitor the temperature with something that is NOT the idiot lights or whatever came stock on your car. So if things were well flushed and you're certain you're probably in the clear. If you think things may be mixed I'd do a multi-run DI water flush (like 5 gallons total), then fill and run until I'd used ~3 gal of FL22 equivalent. Then you'd be quite sure you had the FL22 concentration close, and more importantly not have a mixture of types.
 
Back
Top