Custom Shift Cable
- Thread starter Trithemius
- Start date
- Watchers 61
That looks like exactly what I ordered. The only thing I would change if I did it again would be to shorten the cables some. I'd recommend ordering an overall length of 57.00 inches.
And when you get them, you'll probably have to cut some of the threads off of each end to fully utilize them. They're actually longer than what the spec sheet showed, and the heim joints wouldn't fully thread on. Easy fix with a dremel though.
it still works with the 57.5 correct or did you have to shorten it?
oh also @Trithemius I'm guessing from what i read we have to have the other bracket the stock ones don't work?
oh also @Trithemius I'm guessing from what i read we have to have the other bracket the stock ones don't work?
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phantomoperator
Greenie N00B Member
I'm assuming that due to what mid west control can offer, we cant get a cable that would utilize the stock cable retaining bracket?
Would you also be able to take a video showing the play in the shifter with the new cables? My rubber grommets in the cable ball joints are starting to soften up which is adding about an inch of play. I got a short shift plate coming but that's not going to help much and Id love to upgrade the stock cables by adding better ball joints, or completely replacing the cables.
It still works at 57.5, that's what I'm using. It was tight fit, that's all. And no, the stock brackets won't work, the geometry on the bulkheads of the new cables is different.
The geometry of the cable bulkheads from midwest are different, that's why the new bracket is necessary.
I'll post up a video when I can. There's still play inside the transmission, and in the shifter stem bushing, but the cables have absolutely zero play in the joints. It may be possible to upgrade the joints on the stock cables, I'd have to take some measurements again.
phantomoperator
Greenie N00B Member
For the shift stem bushing, I think it may be possible to insert a small shim or spacer to help keep the bushing in place and tighten things up a bit.
I haven't checked yet to see if the cable joints at the transmission started to soften up and thus, are contributing to the overall amount of play in my shifter. Ideally I'd like to replace all of the joints without having to remove the cables. I don't think it will be possible though to just replace the joints. You'd have to cut the old ones off and that will shorten the cables up too much to allow new ones to be added on.
Correct me if I'm wrong though. I haven't taken the time to measure things yet to check the feasibility.
I haven't checked yet to see if the cable joints at the transmission started to soften up and thus, are contributing to the overall amount of play in my shifter. Ideally I'd like to replace all of the joints without having to remove the cables. I don't think it will be possible though to just replace the joints. You'd have to cut the old ones off and that will shorten the cables up too much to allow new ones to be added on.
Correct me if I'm wrong though. I haven't taken the time to measure things yet to check the feasibility.
When installing the cables on the interior side, how much of the dash did you have to take apart, and did you have to remove the heater core? I haven't looked around that area much but from reading the manual its calling for most of that, if it can be worked around that would be great haha.
phantomoperator
Greenie N00B Member
I'm an engineer and my father is a fabricator. We could make a few brackets if people want them. They would all be hand made. However, if enough people wanted one and could do a group buy, I have a friend with a waterjet that could cut the pieces and then I could weld them together.
I didn't remove the heater core. I pulled the radio stack, peeled back some of the carpet, moved the rear heat ducts, removed the airbag control module, and a couple of other things. The two nuts on the firewall bracket were very difficult to take off, and even harder to put back. There's just not much room with the heater core in place, but it is doable. Here's what it looked like.
I didn't remove the heater core. I pulled the radio stack, peeled back some of the carpet, moved the rear heat ducts, removed the airbag control module, and a couple of other things. The two nuts on the firewall bracket were very difficult to take off, and even harder to put back. There's just not much room with the heater core in place, but it is doable. Here's what it looked like.
Thank god, i wasnt looking forward to doing that, if it was at my shop and i was gonna do it there i would pull that cus i have all the tools and stuff to do it, but cars stuck in my garage at home (cable snapped the same day i found this thread haha).
Do you remember what tools you used like wrench sizes and stuff? I dont feel like dragging home half my tool box cus that would be very very heavy, even a general idea would be nice cus i can start test fitting stuff tonight
It's been about a year so I don't really remember sizes. A set of metric sockets from 8mm up and some ratcheting and or flex head wrenches would be good. I think if I remember correctly the firewall bracket nuts are 10mm, and you'll need a wrench to get to them, preferably a flex head.
so i got everything installed, but i don't know where i need to make adjustments at to fix the shifting, it kicks its self out of 2nd gear and it seems i some how changed how the shifter shaft sits lol did you have any issues like this when you installed it? I'm assuming its the adjustments at the very end if the cables that should fix that correct?
