Door Speaker Talk....

Sophisto

Sophisto

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I replaced the stock HU just before this past Christmas with a Pioneer X3700BHS and im looking for decent door upgrades that wont break the bank.. While im not sold specifically to Pioneer products, I do like their basalt line of products as I ran a full set of components in my truck. So for replacement I was considering these.
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Id like to hear from anyone who has replaced their stock speakers, what you used, how you like, etc. I will not be running through an amp, just out of the X3700BHS (50 x 4).
 
Anything will be better than oem coffee filters even with all noise our cars make!
I have Boston Acoustics Pro60SE (now discontinued), only issue was freezing cones in cold Chicago winters.

In general, I'd suggest component speakers that have tweeters mounted separately in doors window corners - because high frequencies are more directional than lower ones.
If you don't have dedicated amp then pick higher sensitivity (90+ dB) speakers - each 3 dB is doubling amp efficiency.
You can also skip rear speakers for improved sound quality and cost.
 
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You have a Pu, right? (Based upon your avatar) If so, we have 5x7/6x8 speakers in our doors (non-tech/non-Bose); at least my 2010 does. You may want to double check what's actually in your doors, unless you're looking to convert. The circular speaker grilles are misleading.

Also, I elected Infinity Primus drivers. I like them a lot, and since they're 3-ohm, they pull more power from my amp, which is nice bang-for-the-buck. For this reason, lots of people like using them with the head unit's on-board amps to get more dynamic range out of them. They sound good too. Mine are connected to an Alpine MRV-F300 which is 50w RMS/channel at 4 ohms so I figure they're probably seeing about 63-65 watts per channel in 3-ohm mode.
 
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Redline said:
You have a Pu, right? (Based upon your avatar) If so, we have 5x7/6x8 speakers in our doors (non-tech/non-Bose); at least my 2010 does. You may want to double check what's actually in your doors, unless you're looking to convert. The circular speaker grilles are misleading.

Also, I elected Infinity Primus drivers. I like them a lot, and since they're 3-ohm, they pull more power from my amp, which is nice bang-for-the-buck. For this reason, lots of people like using them with the head unit's on-board amps to get more dynamic range out of them. They sound good too. Mine are connected to an Alpine MRV-F300 which is 50w RMS/channel at 4 ohms so I figure they're probably seeing about 63-65 watts per channel in 3-ohm mode.
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oh snap! Serious? yeah that's definitely misleading.. I assume the 5x7's are front and 6x8's in rear doors? I have a 2010 also, Sport, non tech.. I'll look into this. Happen to have any pics of whats behind the doors?
 
Sophisto said:
oh snap! Serious? yeah that's definitely misleading.. I assume the 5x7's are front and 6x8's in rear doors? I have a 2010 also, Sport, non tech.. I'll look into this. Happen to have any pics of what's behind the doors?
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5x7s/6x8s are often one and the same. Many manufacturers (including the Infinitys I got) create speakers that fit holes this size. I used the same pair of speakers for the front as for the back. You'll notice they mention both measurements, here:
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Derp, I thought you meant the speakers o.0
BTW, I checked out your system through the thread you linked, @tarnumf . That is a SERIOUSLY nice setup/install :D
 
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there's a adhesive roofing product you can use for 1/3 of that price.. Went to Lowe's yesterday and couldn't find it.. I used it in my Colorado Extreme when I had it.. stuff worked awesome. Basically the same stuff... need to find this again!
 
Sophisto said:
there's a adhesive roofing product you can use for 1/3 of that price.. Went to Lowe's yesterday and couldn't find it.. I used it in my Colorado Extreme when I had it.. stuff worked awesome. Basically the same stuff... need to find this again!
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Lmk if u find what it is.
 
it works buddy. made my hollow doors that sounded like tinny loud sheet metal nice and quiet.. give it a try, just make sure you clean the door panel with something like 409 all purpose or something to give the metal a nice clean surface for the adhesive backing to adhere to.
 
Sophisto said:
it works buddy. made my hollow doors that sounded like tinny loud sheet metal nice and quiet.. give it a try, just make sure you clean the door panel with something like 409 all purpose or something to give the metal a nice clean surface for the adhesive backing to adhere to.
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kool ill give it a shot, I have full upgraded speakers and amp and to me the cars audio never sounds right, maybe this will help.
[doublepost=1472836701][/doublepost]how much will 15 ft cover?
[doublepost=1472841228][/doublepost]
Sophisto said:
it works buddy. made my hollow doors that sounded like tinny loud sheet metal nice and quiet.. give it a try, just make sure you clean the door panel with something like 409 all purpose or something to give the metal a nice clean surface for the adhesive backing to adhere to.
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okay so I watched the video and he uses the peel and seal aluminum stuff. I looked it up and looked at reviews and it turns out many people use it over say fat mat. which now brings me to why I would even use the frost king product? would I put that on top of the peel and seal or are they both basically the same?
 
MB quart speakers all around from varying lines, all going through MBQ amp with stock hu.

One thing that became very clear to me once I got clear speakers is that radio quality sound is pretty awful, and that the Bose processed it to clean it up. It's an unfortunate sacrifice I didn't expect at all, but it's all worth it when I play music through my phone.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Sophisto said:
there's a adhesive roofing product you can use for 1/3 of that price.. Went to Lowe's yesterday and couldn't find it.. I used it in my Colorado Extreme when I had it.. stuff worked awesome. Basically the same stuff... need to find this again
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Sophisto said:
pretty sure this is the same stuff....
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449
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Deadening sheets are very heavy and that's their main quality that works.
The foam that you linked is completely different animal.

Redline said:
BTW, I checked out your system through the thread you linked, @tarnumf . That is a SERIOUSLY nice setup/install :D
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It's not my, I wish! :D
But I used that thread as my how-to back in 2012 and I like how it worked out and lasted all these years.

blackms3_71 said:
which now brings me to why I would even use the frost king product?
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Foam is used mostly to fight sound reflections from the back of the speakers. But it should be applied with foam facing to speaker and that duct insulation applies with foil out.
I skipped foam in my install mainly because it's moisture trap.
 
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tarnumf said:
Deadening sheets are very heavy and that's their main quality that works.
The foam that you linked is completely different animal.


It's not my, I wish! :D
But I used that thread as my how-to back in 2012 and I like how it worked out and lasted all these years.


Foam is used mostly to fight sound reflections from the back of the speakers. But it should be applied with foam facing to speaker and that duct insulation applies with foil out.
I skipped foam in my install mainly because it's moisture trap.
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Yeah dont use the foam.. if thats what I linked, sorry!! the stuff in the video though is what I had before on my truck and its definitely NOT foam.. its a pretty heavy duty mat of some sort, very durable.
 
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