Ebay RESPONS TMS GFB Dual Port BOV - "EFB"
- Thread starter JohnnyTightlips
- Start date
Sorry, i hijacked your thread arguing at the other guy. I'll stop it.
Thanks for your review and infos.
Were we arguing? I'm ultimately just trying to figure out this statement...
...and why/how a BPV will be inherently better at avoiding a boost leak. As far as I understand, so long as preload is correct then none of a BPV/BOV/hybrid should be any better than the others for hitting and holding your boost target. Some of them just need a bit of adjusting (such as this GFB-style hybrid) whereas others can just plug in and go (my old CS BPV, for example).
Did a sort of side by side comparison with my pal's legit GFB on Saturday...we took his car out for a drive and then mine a few minutes after. Conclusions I reached were that the authentic valve is larger in height and possibly diameter (was eyeballing so I'm not 100% positive on the second one, but it is definitely a taller unit), and is louder with a slightly longer venting sound. Didn't seem to be much else that was different; they both function properly and serve the same purpose, it's really just the sound that's just slightly different and a question over long-term durability/effectiveness of the knockoff unit.
Overall, still super happy with this valve for the price that I paid. If it craps out in any way in the future, though, I'll most likely be stumping up for the real thing to replace it.
Overall, still super happy with this valve for the price that I paid. If it craps out in any way in the future, though, I'll most likely be stumping up for the real thing to replace it.
I have started tuning with the CS and this valve and have had no issues so far. I did hit 25 psi on one run while I was dialing in my wgdc and it had no issues venting. So far I have been very happy with it. I do need to tune out some of the VTA as with no cats I def get back fires or I could just not vent as much lulz. If you keep it around 15% vta I get virtually no issues with back fires after shifts. With stock cats I could vent it more and it was not as noticeable.
I'm at a constant crossroads between wanting to keep down unnecessary backfires while still getting a satisfyingly loud VTA sound...that's the one aspect where true GFB would be better to own, but is it worth the additional cost? Not to me, right now.
Even the first page of this thread has a lot of great info regarding the impact of valves (lots of good stuff on page 2 as well):
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f600/importance-boost-bypass-valve-147545/
FWIW, Lex specifically chose the Synapse, finding it superior to the other options in key ways, which he explains. A lot of it related to SWAS interference too. And though I didn't see it in this thread (it may be in there), IIRC, our stock valves are designed to be partially open in part-throttle conditions, like in a parking lot. Using a video about setting preload on a valve on a Suby therefore may lead you down a path that's not appropriate for a Speed 3. Just food for thought - something you may want to verify first.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f600/importance-boost-bypass-valve-147545/
FWIW, Lex specifically chose the Synapse, finding it superior to the other options in key ways, which he explains. A lot of it related to SWAS interference too. And though I didn't see it in this thread (it may be in there), IIRC, our stock valves are designed to be partially open in part-throttle conditions, like in a parking lot. Using a video about setting preload on a valve on a Suby therefore may lead you down a path that's not appropriate for a Speed 3. Just food for thought - something you may want to verify first.
I deleted SWAS, so NFG.
Me too. I found it to be the best option. But if someone doesn't want to, valve selection can have a major impact on SWAS interference which is why I put up the info. I used to have a Turbosmart before and it was horrible with the SWAS. Supposedly the Synapse is excellent with SWAS intact (no personal experience since I unplugged and never turned back before I got the Synapse). I could try it again now with the Synapse, I suppose; it worked excellently for Lex. I don't think I will though.
The BOV does not have any issues at idle as the vta does not kick in until you are at higher boost. The VTA is higher up the piston travel than the return. I have had no issues with idle. I did adjust the spring load when I got it per GFB's instructions.
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I cannot speak for SWAS as I have versatune and it is disabled.
Same. Adjusted per GFB tutorial, zero idle or stumbling shift issues.
I like to live dangerously.
LOL. The reason I ask is because with the adjustable VTA setting on v2 and v3, you can fine-tune the system a lot more. You can run essentially zero pre-load, have the valve still fully close, and increase the responsiveness/reaction speed a great deal. That was one of the very first things I noticed when experimenting with the VTA settings - under hard acceleration, the car got into boost MUCH faster between shifts. It wasn't like FFS'ing, but much faster than normal.
got dat whistle tip (GFB #5702). thing's fucking awesome and fits the ebay valve perfectly.
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So good!