Yeah it's a pressure switch so when you're turning the wheel and the pressure increases the ECU can bump the idle up to prevent it from bogging down/stalling.
Endgame setup- BW s257sxe
- Thread starter iamareios
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Yeah it's a pressure switch so when you're turning the wheel and the pressure increases the ECU can bump the idle up to prevent it from bogging down/stalling.
I always thought that was annoying that when I would turn the wheel my car would rev up lol Is unplugging this a bad thing for the pump if my idle is set higher than stock anyway?
My idle is at 850 and it doesn't seem to make a difference. Sticky tires warmed up on a hot day might give you trouble, but even then I don't think it would cause any issues. Doesn't seem to bog for me / want to die.
Well I will be unplugging mine immediately then cuz tha has always drove me crazy lol
Did a thing and added some long grain rice to the build. My intention was to direct more airflow to the tr1035. I blocked out the side openings with black abs plastic. Mazdaspeed? More like mazdaparked these days...
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Do you have an exhaust leak? Looking at the underside of the hood it looks like you might have one around the turbo
Nah it's always been like that. I swapped hoods with a local selling his speed. I wanted the hood vent. He needed a stock hood
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More power more problems. Recently i have been chasing an intermittent engine stalling issue. It happens under these specific conditions: Engine at operating temp, brake/clutch pedal pushed in coming to a red light or stop and go traffic. Once clutch pedal is pushed down the rpms will immediately drop to 500rpms and below, then stall. When it does not occur, it will rev hang or bounce for a few seconds until reaching set idle point.
So far i have replaced the neutral safety switch on the trans and installed a honeycomb air straightener into the 4" intake. LTFT at idle is flat at 0, but while cruising is +10. This probably isn't related to the stalling issue and i suspect it needs a MAF cal now. Things i am considering looking at next are crank sensor, fuel pump resistor, and proper throttle body operation.
So far i have replaced the neutral safety switch on the trans and installed a honeycomb air straightener into the 4" intake. LTFT at idle is flat at 0, but while cruising is +10. This probably isn't related to the stalling issue and i suspect it needs a MAF cal now. Things i am considering looking at next are crank sensor, fuel pump resistor, and proper throttle body operation.
When I was having odd dropping to idle and odd throttle feel. I run VersaTune on that one, so that I can change idle rpm. VT has idle for every gear, neutral, ac on, water temp. In my case it didn't fix anything related to the flaky throttle response.
So decided to do a video of Throttle body operation. Video start --> Just sitting, then Key In ignition, Key On, Key Off. At 36 seconds into the video time index.
If you watch stroke of the throttle plate it has a slight hang at that time index. This was my trouble.
Replacing with a CX-7 junk yard TB fixed all my issues. Mine was more from under boost conditions the hang spot was just enough to effect it in a way I didn't expect.
Originally the previous owner had folded over the metal gasket between TB and Intake Manifold. So throttle plate would get caught and forced operation. The TB uses a plastic lead screw/gear for the motor to Plate shaft movement.
Nice thing its a free check! Pop boot --> vid with phone.
So decided to do a video of Throttle body operation. Video start --> Just sitting, then Key In ignition, Key On, Key Off. At 36 seconds into the video time index.
If you watch stroke of the throttle plate it has a slight hang at that time index. This was my trouble.
Replacing with a CX-7 junk yard TB fixed all my issues. Mine was more from under boost conditions the hang spot was just enough to effect it in a way I didn't expect.
Originally the previous owner had folded over the metal gasket between TB and Intake Manifold. So throttle plate would get caught and forced operation. The TB uses a plastic lead screw/gear for the motor to Plate shaft movement.
Nice thing its a free check! Pop boot --> vid with phone.
I have 2 still. Why? I do not know. The tune was completed with a CS throttle body though. So I wonder if going back to stock has something to do with the stalling.
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Back then, I asked if a tune adjustment was necessary for swapping throttle bodies. Tuna said no.
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Mostly correct, but you'd get rev hangs.
It's either that you're tuned for the CS throttle body, or you have no passage for air to bypass the throttle body. When I had my PCV port capped on the intake mani (still do, but I tuned this issue out), any time I'd do a pull and go clutch in, the engine would die. Originally, I wound up putting a hose in going from intake to intake mani with a check valve; then, I learned how to tune this out.
It's either that you're tuned for the CS throttle body, or you have no passage for air to bypass the throttle body. When I had my PCV port capped on the intake mani (still do, but I tuned this issue out), any time I'd do a pull and go clutch in, the engine would die. Originally, I wound up putting a hose in going from intake to intake mani with a check valve; then, I learned how to tune this out.
The ST manifold has a vacuum line that threads into a check valve running to the 2nd OCC shown in routing 2. Another check valve to the 1st OCC. Both my cans are VTA with check valves as well. It also has a vacuum dist block that I have plumbed to another dist block. Come to think of it, the car stalled on my 1st pull after taking it off the Dyno with the CS throttle body and never again after that. So swapping to the stocker definitely exacerbated whatever issue. I think adding the air straightener is irrelevant to this issue. The lean condition at cruise is a different problem lol
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