Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
No need to open throttle to clean the MAF?
Can anyone help me locate a hard copy of the factory service manuals?
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First time owner G2 speed3
- Thread starter Pcktrckt
- Start date
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No need to open throttle to clean the MAF?
Can anyone help me locate a hard copy of the factory service manuals?
No you just unplug, and unscrew the two tiny allen screws holding it down on your air intake. Then, do as Monkey says and spray the crap out of it and reinstall and plug in. It's probably the most simple thing you will ever do to your speed lol
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
How can I get in touch with Dolf?
There you go! Simple and straight forward. Thanks.
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Awafrican
Moderator
Reading through glad your afrs seem to be reading again.
Stage 2 is meant for upgraded hpfp....stage 0 + sf is what you want for the intake can download it from the Cobb site, enter your information and filter by mods
https://www.cobbtuning.com/maps/
As for a hard copy of the service manual I don't know but I do know that we have the PDFs in the metal member section (donation 10$/yr to access)
Stage 2 is meant for upgraded hpfp....stage 0 + sf is what you want for the intake can download it from the Cobb site, enter your information and filter by mods
https://www.cobbtuning.com/maps/
As for a hard copy of the service manual I don't know but I do know that we have the PDFs in the metal member section (donation 10$/yr to access)
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
Thanks for the info. I will report back when I find the map.
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
Update.
Did some digging and I was not able to source the stage 0+sf. Checked Cobb's site and Google. Maybe someone can assist locating it?
I noticed on my last datalog of stage 0 v400, I noticed that at times during high boost the HPFP was called out and pressure above 1100. Is this still safe to run on stock internals? Not saying that I will keep it in high boost. Just for my own knowledge. Thanks.
Did some digging and I was not able to source the stage 0+sf. Checked Cobb's site and Google. Maybe someone can assist locating it?
I noticed on my last datalog of stage 0 v400, I noticed that at times during high boost the HPFP was called out and pressure above 1100. Is this still safe to run on stock internals? Not saying that I will keep it in high boost. Just for my own knowledge. Thanks.
Awafrican
Moderator
They must have gotten rid of it or I'm mistaken and it never was a thing... Here's a link to the map notes male sure your running the most appropriate one https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/94323647/Map+Notes+for+Mazdaspeed3
As for hpfp pressure 1600psi is what you want to see minimum while doing med-high boost, 1100 is LOW, what rpm / boost were you at? Stage 0 is stock map only one I'd run without upgrading those.
I presume it's in one of those 3 logs you posted? I haven't gone through them yet
As for hpfp pressure 1600psi is what you want to see minimum while doing med-high boost, 1100 is LOW, what rpm / boost were you at? Stage 0 is stock map only one I'd run without upgrading those.
I presume it's in one of those 3 logs you posted? I haven't gone through them yet
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
No worries. I will upload the latest logs and just look at them when you have time. Just trying to understand where stock HPFP should be around 11 psi of boost. I did switch maps today and went back to stage 0, but didn't log.
Duey1083
Greenie Member
Welcome to the forum!
It's not a popular opinion around here anymore, but I still use Stratified. I've had no customer service complaints about them and they will talk to you over the phone and help you troubleshoot and help you roadmap your modification process. I also find then to be very responsive...just don't get one of their crackle tunes (Please!). They also tend to tune on the safe side, so you dont need to worry about zoom-zoom boom...assuming you get your AP figured out.
With some of the issues you're experiencing with your APv3, I've been wondering if the dealership would have somehow unmarried it from your car.
The reason COBB told you to seek help from an e-tuner is because your CS intake likely isnt stock size. If that's the case, your car will run like dog shit without a MAF cal.
Going back to the etuner, if you are running the stock K04, you do NOT need a custom protune. You can purchase what the reputable tuners (Freek, Stratified, Purple, etc.) call a flash tune. They developed these tunes with their own R&D with various mods on the stock turbo.
What you need to do:
1) Sort out your APv3 issues. I would recommend reaching out to an e-tuner to help you troubleshoot this.
2) Put together an accurate list of mods that are installed on your car now.
3) Purchase your HPFP internals (if you do so through an e-tuner, they often discount your flash tune...Stratified does this for free)
4) Provide mod list to your e-tuner, wait for the flash and install
5) The e-tuner will tell you what parameters you need to datalog to ensure your car is running safe. The e-tuning process is NOT tuning via butt dyno. The AP records parameters from your cars ECU throughout the rev range from about 3000 rpm to redline on a WOT run. If you are worried about breaking laws, you can do this in 3rd gear.
I really wish you luck with your car...something doesnt seem right with your AP.
It also wouldn't hurt if you could take a few pictures of the mods under the hood. As well, can you please take a couple pics of your downpipe and secondary catalytic converter...it would be good to know if you do have an aftermarket downpipe and/or a race/test pipe.
It's not a popular opinion around here anymore, but I still use Stratified. I've had no customer service complaints about them and they will talk to you over the phone and help you troubleshoot and help you roadmap your modification process. I also find then to be very responsive...just don't get one of their crackle tunes (Please!). They also tend to tune on the safe side, so you dont need to worry about zoom-zoom boom...assuming you get your AP figured out.
With some of the issues you're experiencing with your APv3, I've been wondering if the dealership would have somehow unmarried it from your car.
The reason COBB told you to seek help from an e-tuner is because your CS intake likely isnt stock size. If that's the case, your car will run like dog shit without a MAF cal.
Going back to the etuner, if you are running the stock K04, you do NOT need a custom protune. You can purchase what the reputable tuners (Freek, Stratified, Purple, etc.) call a flash tune. They developed these tunes with their own R&D with various mods on the stock turbo.
What you need to do:
1) Sort out your APv3 issues. I would recommend reaching out to an e-tuner to help you troubleshoot this.
2) Put together an accurate list of mods that are installed on your car now.
3) Purchase your HPFP internals (if you do so through an e-tuner, they often discount your flash tune...Stratified does this for free)
4) Provide mod list to your e-tuner, wait for the flash and install
5) The e-tuner will tell you what parameters you need to datalog to ensure your car is running safe. The e-tuning process is NOT tuning via butt dyno. The AP records parameters from your cars ECU throughout the rev range from about 3000 rpm to redline on a WOT run. If you are worried about breaking laws, you can do this in 3rd gear.
I really wish you luck with your car...something doesnt seem right with your AP.
It also wouldn't hurt if you could take a few pictures of the mods under the hood. As well, can you please take a couple pics of your downpipe and secondary catalytic converter...it would be good to know if you do have an aftermarket downpipe and/or a race/test pipe.
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CS intake does not require a MAF cal
Duey1083
Greenie Member
Thanks! That's good...just wanted to make sure.
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
I appreciate the help. Spoke to PO recently. The exhaust is stock except for post second cat. Custom exhaust with res and muffler delete. It crackles on its own. Lol.
Will get some pics later tonight.
How could I verify the AP is unmarried?
Also, I think it was a bad flash and/or firmware updates related. It seems to be reading boost, rpm, afr. Whereas previously, afr was static at 14.85. refer to datalog 15 and 16 as reference. I will post new logs too.
Awafrican
Moderator
Yes never get a Crackle tune that's just asking for trouble
If accesport is unmarried when it's plug into vehicle it'll have an option to install if you have the stage 0 tune on your access is married to your car
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
Does this explain part of the AFR cal?
Thought of it, butine already crackles to unburnt fuel. Lol
I see uninstall option.
Latest datalogs. Sorry it's so lengthy. But I did it from idle during warm up to operating temp. That's likely the first 200 or so lines.
19 is stage 0 v400
20 is stage 2 91 v400
I have since gone back to stage 0.
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I didn't see a wot pull in either datalog 19 or 20. A datalog should simply be a full throttle pull and nothing more ideally. I would suggest to either run stage 0 or 1 until getting a flash tune from a reputable mazdaspeed protuner (Freaktune, Purple Drank, Dizzy, Stratified, etc). We won't know how your car is running until you can post up a datalog of your car with a full throttle WOT run from 3k to redline. The actual pedal position needs added to your datalog parameters as the pedal position that you are currently logging shows how open the throttle body is not how much percentage of the pedal you are using ie it shows you're 77% while actually at 99% because of the computer controlling how open your throttle body actually is. I second buying the parts from a protuner since u already are anyways and then they will give you a deal on a tune. That is a great idea
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
Thanks for the comments. This helps explain a lot of things that I'm seeing. I was thinking it was just me.
I will see about adding pedal position and hoping that the data dump.
Awafrican
Moderator
Some many posts coming around to help you this is awesome, skimming through again some of it's been covered but here's a long list
typical logging items for tuning, I always log these items as if I was going to send a log to the tuner:
Accelerator pedal position
AFR
Boost
Boost air temp
Calculated load
HPFP actual
Injector duty cycle %
Intake temp
Intake valve adv
Knock Retard
LTFT
Maf Voltage
Mass Airflow
RPM
STFT
Spark Advance
Throttle Position
Vehice Speed
WGDC
typical logging items for tuning, I always log these items as if I was going to send a log to the tuner:
Accelerator pedal position
AFR
Boost
Boost air temp
Calculated load
HPFP actual
Injector duty cycle %
Intake temp
Intake valve adv
Knock Retard
LTFT
Maf Voltage
Mass Airflow
RPM
STFT
Spark Advance
Throttle Position
Vehice Speed
WGDC
Duey1083
Greenie Member
Thanks @Awafrican! I was going to dig through my emails from Stratified to get the datalogging parameters they ask for.
You're definitely right! It's good to see there's still a strong community here for the Mazdaspeed platform.
@Pcktrckt, in addition to the datalogging parameters, I like to have the 6-gauge layout for live monitoring. I like to monitor AFR, HPFP pressures, LTFT, KR, BAT, and Coolant Temps. When you perform a WOT datalog, do it in 3rd or 4th gear (3rd you'll be slightly over legal limits at redline on a 60 mph road) once you are at or around 3000 rpm and hold until redline or just under. Make sure to watch your HPFP pressure to ensure it does not dip below 1600 psi at WOT. Also monitor Knock Retard (<2.0 on WOT), LTFT should be +/-10% WOT or +/-15% at idle, and AFRs should be between 10.8 and 12.0 at WOT.
If you see anything out of the ordinary in any of those parameters, drive conservatively and out of boost until you can fix the issue.
Best of luck to you!
If no one has told you yet, do not go WOT less than around 2800 rpm (typically) in any gear, and never go WOT in 6th gear...unless you want to have a good look over your rods and other internals without the hassle of removing the engine.
You're definitely right! It's good to see there's still a strong community here for the Mazdaspeed platform.
@Pcktrckt, in addition to the datalogging parameters, I like to have the 6-gauge layout for live monitoring. I like to monitor AFR, HPFP pressures, LTFT, KR, BAT, and Coolant Temps. When you perform a WOT datalog, do it in 3rd or 4th gear (3rd you'll be slightly over legal limits at redline on a 60 mph road) once you are at or around 3000 rpm and hold until redline or just under. Make sure to watch your HPFP pressure to ensure it does not dip below 1600 psi at WOT. Also monitor Knock Retard (<2.0 on WOT), LTFT should be +/-10% WOT or +/-15% at idle, and AFRs should be between 10.8 and 12.0 at WOT.
If you see anything out of the ordinary in any of those parameters, drive conservatively and out of boost until you can fix the issue.
Best of luck to you!
If no one has told you yet, do not go WOT less than around 2800 rpm (typically) in any gear, and never go WOT in 6th gear...unless you want to have a good look over your rods and other internals without the hassle of removing the engine.
Pcktrckt
Greenie Member
Thanks for the tips
