First time owner G2 speed3

1 Better flow and
2 less risk of failure. From the dp to the mid pipe.
3 still need my 2nd cat.
1 not true
2 also removes a flex joint that Mazda thought was necessary and not true
3 it's unmonitored so why do you need it and what do has two cats?
 
In my state, I still need to do emissions so I am not able to remove it. The cat on the dp can be removed.

Based on my experience, the increase in flow can cause the gasket to leak over time. This is why I like the long tube option. More joints equals more problems
 
In my state, I still need to do emissions so I am not able to remove it. The cat on the dp can be removed.

Based on my experience, the increase in flow can cause the gasket to leak over time. This is why I like the long tube option. More joints equals more problems

The second cat is u monitored and will not throw a cel when removed but you will fail a visual inspection the first cat is monitored and will throw a cel

If you need to keep a cat then just put in a test pipe and call it a day a catted downpipe isn't worth the hassle and cost
 
The second cat is u monitored and will not throw a cel when removed but you will fail a visual inspection the first cat is monitored and will throw a cel

If you need to keep a cat then just put in a test pipe and call it a day a catted downpipe isn't worth the hassle and cost

How does a test pipe help with a stock catted dp and 2nd cat? I don't have a visual inspection. Just OBDII.
 
Please just accept that you know nothing and that everyone in this thread is trying to help you and is far more knowledgeable than you.

I never claimed that I know more. Basically, my issue is to try to be compliant as possible. The issue is by eliminating the cat, I no longer will be able to pass. Just being realistic. I don't want to have to swap it out every other year.
 
Your first posts say egr delete. Also mentioned obdll, if they use a scanner to validate run cycles the removed ecu points will come back during scan. Now your talking about visual inspection to fake out tests. You need to find specific answers to exactly what your state requirements are. Any tailpipe sniffing with a tester.. You will never pass. I've had better (CA smog before I moved) but non CA complying equipment and was told by a great test tech "I can't see anything different from stock, it can look like just installed. A test tech in CA has the smog machine go through a menu tree for tech to sign affirmative for the individual equipment. Your state maybe different, but you need to find out. If you fail, that knowledge will be added to your states database so best to get your facts first.
 
Your first posts say egr delete. Also mentioned obdll, if they use a scanner to validate run cycles the removed ecu points will come back during scan. Now your talking about visual inspection to fake out tests. You need to find specific answers to exactly what your state requirements are. Any tailpipe sniffing with a tester.. You will never pass. I've had better (CA smog before I moved) but non CA complying equipment and was told by a great test tech "I can't see anything different from stock, it can look like just installed. A test tech in CA has the smog machine go through a menu tree for tech to sign affirmative for the individual equipment. Your state maybe different, but you need to find out. If you fail, that knowledge will be added to your states database so best to get your facts first.

I get that. I lived in California and now arizona. The issue for me is, the EGR is easy to do. But what I'm not sure of is the cat delete. On obdii, they plug in and do gas cap test. No sniff or visuals. Still trying to confirm if I am safe to delete one or both.

I know a high flow cat is allowed. But I live near phoenix and they have different regulations. They aren't like California. I personally know people that switch back and forth for their smog in California. That's not something I want to do.

There's a MF dp I want to get, but I'm hesitant. There's no videos of anyone that has installed the MF dp yet. It has the high flow cat that MF is known for. Plus, the seller wants my core so they can sell it as scrap. I want to keep it just in case I run into a tech that knows what they are looking at.
 
I am running into an issue removing the HPFP. It is stuck on something in the head. I've turned the crank to see if it would get free, but no joy. Anyone have any ideas to help remove the pump? Both fuel lines are disconnected from the top of the pump. The 19mm nut on the hard line is off, bit the
 

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I never claimed that I know more. Basically, my issue is to try to be compliant as possible. The issue is by eliminating the cat, I no longer will be able to pass. Just being realistic. I don't want to have to swap it out every other year.

My guy, a test pipe takes like 30 minutes to install and uninstall, id say thats worth it every 2 years for smog.

Not to mention most of your power gains are gonna come from the second cat
 
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What I am trying to achieve the following.

I want to have a 1 piece dp. By eliminating the cat, the hope is to improve the flow. I've been looking into the cp-e qkspl long dp. Question is, it will eliminate both cats. Though I want to use a high flow cat. As long as I have 1 cat, I should be good.
 
What I am trying to achieve the following.

I want to have a 1 piece dp. By eliminating the cat, the hope is to improve the flow. I've been looking into the cp-e qkspl long dp. Question is, it will eliminate both cats. Though I want to use a high flow cat. As long as I have 1 cat, I should be good.

whatever route you decide to go (full downpipe, short downpipe, test pipe) get one from eBay or similar.
 
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