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My oil cooler helped with coolant temps for sure. BUT I too have a koyo rad in coming. My coolant temps still creep up lap after lap so if the koyo can even help out a little then I’ll be in the clear. If you’ve never had coolant temp issues then maybe don’t bother with the koyoRight, looking for some opinions here. Way back in June-ish, after my first track day, I was worried about the car overheating. So I ordered a JBR oil cooler and upgraded Koyo radiator. I recieved both of these about a month ago, and plan on installing the oil cooler next spring. But I'm debating returning the Koyo radiator as I've never gone above 205*F on track. Additionally, JBR claims lower oil temps will lead to lower coolant temps, so that radiator really may be pointless; I've only got an intake and tune so It's probably not creating a ton of excess heat anyway. Any thoughts?
Alright, not an issue for me as I'm still on the stock top mount, but yeah I could see the koyo rad being more useful with another heat exchanger slapped in front of itJBRs claims make sense as our oil is cooled by our coolant.
The biggest coolant temperature drop gains I've seen are from those on FMIC that put some ducting in to seal off the Fmic to ensure air is passing through it not around it, the stock grille has some good baffles that get cutout for Fmic
I'm just doing HPDE's and casual track days at the moment. The stock tmic definitely sucks for autocross and stop-and go traffic, but once in motion, on track, it stays below 110°f. What kind of racing class are you referring to, SCCA time trials or something like that?for sure, the other thing is upgrading that TMIC will help keeps BATs done which will prob help a little with engine temps, although will that affect your racing class?
If you ever compete in any sanctioned event, time attack, scca, nasa, or any of that stuff they’ll put you in a class depending on the mods done to the car. Just ask me about what kinda trouble that can be lolI'm just doing HPDE's and casual track days at the moment. The stock tmic definitely sucks for autocross and stop-and go traffic, but once in motion, on track, it stays below 110°f. What kind of racing class are you referring to, SCCA time trials or something like that?
Huh, I might get into that a year or two down the road, but for now I just want to move up through NASA's HPDE system. I'm assuming you'd need a full fr race suit, harness, hans device and stuff like that? Do you need a racing license?If you ever compete in any sanctioned event, time attack, scca, nasa, or any of that stuff they’ll put you in a class depending on the mods done to the car. Just ask me about what kinda trouble that can be lol
Not sure on that. I’m in Canada so little different. But classing is classing. I built my car for “fun” before I got into racing. All my “fun” mods ended up doing was pushing me into a class I couldn’t even touch in terms of competition. if you plan to ever compete, keep this in mind. It ended up being ok for me since I “grew” into the car and can now compete and stand a chance but back in my early days forget itHuh, I might get into that a year or two down the road, but for now I just want to move up through NASA's HPDE system. I'm assuming you'd need a full fr race suit, harness, hans device and stuff like that? Do you need a racing license?
Is that a white line front end link? They have known issues. I’m on OEM. If that’s an OEM endlink issue then you have a very interesting problem lol. I wouldn’t even know where to begin with that.Recently I've been getting a rubbing noise from the front driver side wheel well while turning left (moving or stationary.) So I got the car up today and have found that the backside of the sway bar endlink is scraping the inside of the wheel well. I've got 2.5° of camber right now, I was planning on upping it to 3° soon but that would just bring the endlinks in even more. Any thoughts?Template public:_media_site_embed_imgur not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
Awesome!! Great choice of wheel and tire. I really loved mine.Also just got some new wheels in! Still have to get tires mounted and see if I run into any fitment issues, decided to get 17x8.5 and 245 width Hankook rs4's, that's the same width as the FoRS, CTR, and STI run so I figure if I can get the jump on any of those cars on track I'll know I don't have a significant grip advantage.Template public:_media_site_embed_imgur not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
This is a moog endlink from a (2007 ish?) Bmw m3, I've read of other people running KW v3's with them. But the moog design does have an area to grab onto the backside, so if I can find something like oem with the Allen key to keep it from spinning, that may free up space. I can't remember 100% but I believe oem was an inch or two too long.Is that a white line front end link? They have known issues. I’m on OEM. If that’s an OEM endlink issue then you have a very interesting problem lol. I wouldn’t even know where to begin with that.
Again, just wanted to be on equal footing with similar cars, and am hoping slightly skinnier tires will require less modification to fit. But I could be wrong, it's difficult searching through other people's wheel setups, everyone seems to have slightly different suspension setups and what rubs for some doesn't rub for others.Awesome!! Great choice of wheel and tire. I really loved mine.
Curious why you didn’t maximize and go with a 17x9 with a 255 wide?
interesting. there is another endlink that works and CLEARS properly. its a focus ST/RS part number i think its the white line endlink but for focus. It clears properly. i need to check with my shop to confirm but yes there is an endlink that works and doesnt come into contact like that. ill see if i can get the details from my buddy.This is a moog endlink from a (2007 ish?) Bmw m3, I've read of other people running KW v3's with them. But the moog design does have an area to grab onto the backside, so if I can find something like oem with the Allen key to keep it from spinning, that may free up space. I can't remember 100% but I believe oem was an inch or two too long.
all i can say is 255/40/17, 17x9 wheels are the only wheels/tires i have ever run on my car. as you know its a track setup basically. 0 rubbing. im the type that would rather less tire then deal with rubbing. 255 clears if you have the proper wheel setup ie. 17x9 +45. Roll the fenders, align correctly and good to go. none of that matters though.Again, just wanted to be on equal footing with similar cars, and am hoping slightly skinnier tires will require less modification to fit. But I could be wrong, it's difficult searching through other people's wheel setups, everyone seems to have slightly different suspension setups and what rubs for some doesn't rub for others.
Honestly most of the decision to run 245's come down to me hoping I can get away with not rolling the fenders. But if I do have to roll fenders to make these fit, then yeah, the 255's would be the better choice.all i can say is 255/40/17, 17x9 wheels are the only wheels/tires i have ever run on my car. as you know its a track setup basically. 0 rubbing. im the type that would rather less tire then deal with rubbing. 255 clears if you have the proper wheel setup ie. 17x9 +45. Roll the fenders, align correctly and good to go. none of that matters though.
the specs you picked should keep you free from rubbing forever. 10mm less tire also, im sure its not a crazy difference. You picked good rubber and good wheels so youll be happy.
i find it interesting you mention CTR and focus RS. the stock size being 245...i dont think in my life i have come across a CTR or focus RS on track, or even on the street for that matter running an OEM wheel setup lol. Those guys have fitment for 265s without even trying. Are you competing in a class with those cars where they need to stay on OEM wheels/fitment for some reason?