Honda Sidewinder on Mazdaspeed

[dinnerplate]

Originally I wasn't going to make a thread like this, I don't think there's all too much that makes my build special, but @Enki convinced me. This isn't a full build diary, most of my build is pretty much done, but I'm going be highlighting me going big turbo.

First and foremost, some context on the dinner wagon so far (just the highlights):

• 08 speed3, sitting on full whiteline suspension and full TB performance bracing and traction bars
• Built engine (Manley platinum extremes, H-Tuffs, Mountune crank, King bearings all around, studded, some other stuff) built by yours truly
• Mishimoto S-line intercooler, converted to gen 2 filter housing with Damond cooler, FoST intake manifold with port injection spacer
• Tuned by Damond

Of course, there's so much more. That's the highlights though (as of today I've sunk $30,000 into my speed), the speed is my time attack car. Now as cool as replacing my k04 multiple times has been from running them at 25psi consistently, it's time to upgrade. I got my speed completely stock after it was abandoned for 3 years. Rebuilt (and built) everything myself.

So why make a thread at all? Seems pretty cookie cutter, if you ask me. Though I suppose there's not a whole lot that can be done differently at this point, given the age of the Mazdaspeed platform.

First and foremost, this is a sidewinder setup, using a BullBoost sidewinder for a K20/K24. Secondly, I have a TurboSmart TS-1 5862. Now I've emailed a few companies, and as far as I have done my research, nobody has ran a TS-1 on a Mazdaspeed yet. The usual suspects are PT5862s, some Garretts, you get the idea.

So why a sidewinder? Well, I work on my car pretty much daily. When it's not on track it's on the street (save for daily driving, obviously). Turbo behind the engine sucks. Maybe if you put it in the car once and never touch it again, it's whatever, but that is definitely not me. Of course it looks cool, too. As for the TS-1? Well, I wanted to be different. The compressor maps don't look too crazy for a Mazdaspeed, and while I was at LS fest I was able to get hands on with a TS-1 and talk to some guys from TurboSmart. I was content with the conversations about the TS-1s enough to at least give them a chance. Worst comes to worst, I get a PT. So this is an experiment, and if you know me, you know I don't shy away from being experimental with my speed.

TS-1 5862 Compressor Map:

I'm currently waiting on my TS-1 to arrive in the mail (some shipping oopsies occurred). As for my exhaust manifold, here's some images. I bought an MZR flange off of Massive Speed Systems, and will be having a local fabrication shop install the flange in place of the K20/K24 flange (with backpurging, of course). Some supports will be put in the runners as well. Odd how closely K20/K24 flanges have the runners line up with MZRs. That being said, if you don't have the deepest pockets in the world to spend on completely custom fabrication for an exhaust manifold, you will be able to get away with Honda manifolds with replaced flanges. Again, for me this was all an experiment, and you'll be seeing how this goes as I update this thread.





As far as finishing this off things I need:

• Split Second Controller and injectors (already have everything else for port injection setup, these two things are the only items I have yet to purchase)
• Clutch
• Oil feed and return lines
• A new hot side intercooler pipe
• Downpipe
• Wire tuck harness

Alright that's all I've got for now. I'll update later when more work gets done or parts get received, as well as answer any questions you guys might have.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Interesting how few bolts there are on the Honda flange in comparison

 

[dinnerplate]

TS-1 was received today. Took some photos of it with and without the peel. Clocking was pretty simple, 6 13mm bolts for the compressor side, 5 13mm bolts on the turbine side. Not sure the length because I didn't think the measure them, but I could get the length if someone wants. Compressor housing comes with a speed sensor boss, so if anyone wants to use a speed sensor that has to be drilled out.

Specifically this is a TS-1 5862 0.82 A/R T4 inlet 3" V-band outlet.

Here's the core:



Compressor side of the core:



Turbine side:



Inside of the compressor housing:



Fully clocked:



Went to my local fab shop and got a quote for getting the MZR flange installed. $350 with back purging and some added support (due to the MZR flange being thinner than the Honda flange). That'll probably give a time gap between this post and when everything gets put on the speed, I'm collecting the other items I need to get this thing running.

I will be wrapping the exhaust and getting a blanket put on. Not sure if I want to powder coat my compressor housing yet.

 

[dinnerplate]

Got some work done today. Pulled the old k04 out, pulled the exhaust manifold, mocked up the position of the TS-1 going in.

"I'm tired, boss."

This unfortunate k04 lost the lottery when it got shipped from CW, because it's had some hard miles put on it. When I pulled the oil return, nothing but coolant came out. And there was definitely oil in the intercooler piping as well. It's time it retires.



Of note, I'm using the Massive Speed MZR flange here. From MS, it's impossible to get this flange in without pulling the alternator, or modifying the flange. I overlayed the stock manifold onto the MS one, and scribed in the outline of the stock manifold to be able to pull this flange off and put it on without pulling the alternator. Here's an image of the flange, scribed with what will be cut off:



And lastly, the glory shot. As it sits, it's a little far to the left, so once the fab shop finishes up with my manifold/flange combo, it'll be to the right by about an inch, maybe two, but more than likely between that. Anyways, plenty of space to run this setup it seems, and even with a down pipe.



I've been working to get this all setup here, been rerouting (and in some cases redoing) wires, pulling off lines, you get the idea. The only thing I need at this point to just "key on" this thing is oil feed and return lines, an additional pipe to mate up to my existing FMIC setup (just a pipe with 2 90*s), and then a small intermediate intake pipe to hold the MAF.

Everything fits phenomenally, and I'm very happy that everything has worked out thus far.

 

[jdab555]

Any plans to get heat shielding in place for the brake reservoir / around the turbo? Gonna get real toasty near a lot of sensitive components.

 

[dinnerplate]

Any plans to get heat shielding in place for the brake reservoir / around the turbo? Gonna get real toasty near a lot of sensitive components.

Absolutely. There's a Funk Motorsport blanket going on this (side note for anyone interested in running a FM blanket with a TS-1 5862 0.82 A/R, the exact blanket needed is their Mk3 blanket, optioned as a T3 size. I had to email them about this because it's not apparent which one to choose for the TurboSmart turbo. Link here: https://funkmotorsport.com/product/mk3-turbo-blanket/).

The brake master and heat shield are going to be reflective taped, as well as the exhaust manifold wrapped with exhaust wrap (same with the downpipe). Maybe even cerakoated in addition to all that.

 

[dinnerplate]

Gee, it’s been a while. I got the manifold back from fabrication today. Fabricator worked some real magic. Then I had to work some magic.

Today the manifold was actually bolted to the engine. Turbo as well. What was unexpected was the engine lift point slightly interfered with runner #3. This wasn’t seen when I mocked everything up because it was hard to get a perfect idea when I couldn’t seat the manifold fully. My solution to this was to remove that lift point, then use a metal file and shave down the casting on the head slightly. There wasn’t enough material removed for me to be concerned. If I was able to identify this before hand, I would’ve added about a quarter or half an inch in runner length immediately off of the flange to prevent this though.

It looks very close, and it is, but with a wrap and a turbo blanket in additional to even more heat management (sleeves over the vacuum line to the brake booster, reflective tape on the brake master, etc) I’m not concerned at all. There’s no other physical interference anywhere, even if it looks like it.

I’m now working on the intake setup, along with redoing all the lines on the car. My split second controller is sitting doing nothing right now, I’m going to send it off to @Harnessed Performance for some magic tricks to be done there.

 

[dinnerplate]

Another little update on the project. Engine is getting moved into a gen 2 body. I’ve been wanting to do this for a while, and finally acquired a silver 2013 like I’ve been wanting.

The only thing remaining on this setup for the engine is a new downpipe, oil lines, hot side intercooler pipe and a way to mount the MAF.

My gen 1 body is going to be turned into a different project, and the gen 2 had some carbon bits go on but after that only a lip and exterior is complete to my liking.

 

[dinnerplate]

Shotgun round of updates.

• Installed wastegate. I chose a gen v hypergate45 from turbosmart, setup for 14psi spring pressure. If you can't tell, it's a full turbosmart setup
• Got my injector controller back from @Harnessed Performance
• Painted the valve cover and turbo compressor housing. I don't think I like them, so I'll either redo them or have them powder coated. Maybe bronze instead of red, not sure.

For the more interesting things, I pulled a 1st gen Mazda3 tensioner, which goes where the gen 1 speed power steering pump/2nd gen idler would go. Reason why is I'm converting my accessory drive to that of a normal 2.3 Mazda3, as shown below.

And I'll be using an alternator for the front, as well. No A/C here, don't need it.

This is how the engine is sitting now. The last things I need before I can key this thing on (besides going into the other speed) is downpipe, intake, and then AN lines for new OCC setup, vacuum and fueling. Setup I'm going with going straight from the low pressure fuel line to the port injection rail, then to my regulator, from the regulator to my high pressure fuel pump.

Side note, if anyone knows of a prettier way to route my port injector connectors, please let me know. I'm not too happy with how they look right now.

 

[dinnerplate]

Engine was taken out this week. Split the head from the block.

Put in CA625+ head studs, checked on general engine health while I was in there. Decided I'm going to upgrade the valve train since the head is off. Crower 68195s, EcoTec retainers. Nothing crazy, just a good bump up from stock.

Got a little froggy, converted my accessory to a Mazda3/EcoBoost hybrid (vice just the Mazda3 setup from the last post). I'm now using the EcoBoost crank pulley (the one that has two 4-rib stages on the crank), and an EcoBoost tensioner on the Mazda3 accessory drive. There's a reason for this, but that's a project that will take place in the future. So the full engine is as such: keyed Mountune 2.3 crank with the keyed timing sprocket, Duratec 2.5 timing set, N/A Mazda3 accessory drive with EcoBoost belt configuration, Manley rods and pistons, ARP 2000 mains, CA625 heads, Crower springs, EcoBoost intake manifold, Honda K24 exhaust manifold. Very weird setup going on here.

Once everything goes back together (which should be by the end of this month), it goes into my 2013, and off to get some fabrication done, then tuning.

Also, unrelated, but in some testing, I've found that you can fully convert a DISI to an EcoBoost accessory drive. You just need the appropriate EcoBoost tensioner, crank pulley, and if someone wanted to run A/C and alternator for/from an EcoBoost, you'd need the mounting plate for an EcoBoost (and the oil pan to mount the A/C fully). I thought that EcoBoosts would have changed the casting a little bit more for the timing cover and front bottom part of the engine for that to not work, but Ford didn't change much at all, just added a bolt-on adapter plate to make it all work. Not that anyone would want to, but I had my Focus RS taken apart for a little bit anyways so I decided to test it all out.

 

[Enki]

How beef is the 2.5 timing set?

 

[dinnerplate]

How beef is the 2.5 timing set?

The teeth on them are much thicker compared to just DISI setup, so pretty beef. As for whether that increases longevity or not? Can't say. Surely someone has an idea, just not me. I use it mainly to use the keyed timing sprocket that I have. Long story with that one. It was a quick and unintentional way to throw my money away, but live and learn. I just further adapted.

 

[Mazdasloww3]

Following, I'm very interested in getting a twin scroll manifold somehow, but no one seems to make them for the speeds. This could change that.

 

[dinnerplate]

Following, I'm very interested in getting a twin scroll manifold somehow, but no one seems to make them for the speeds. This could change that.

As long as you can find a manifold that has exhaust ports with the same or larger diameter of the speed, and the same spacing, you can make it work. Some additional work may be needed to get the manifold to work in the engine bay though.

One of my lessons learned with the K24 manifold is that cylinder 3's runner needs to be pushed back ever so slightly, otherwise it will interfere with the engine hoist location in the back of the head. My solution, since this wasn't obvious until after I had everything done, was relocate that point and shave down the head. Not optimal, but if I ever suggest this to someone I let them know.

 

[dinnerplate]

Got my Crowers and EcoTec retainers in, as well as my 625 studs. Once headgasket gets in, engine goes back together for the foreseeable future. Then goes into my 13.

 

[dinnerplate]

Lot of updates, but wave tops here. Had to get a different timing sprocket. Originally I was using the ecoboost timing sprocket, with 2.5 cam sprocket and vvt.

I ended up having to specifically buy a 2.5 timing sprocket and took it to the machine shop by me to get my keyway transposed onto my duratec sprocket.

The ecoboost and duratec sprockets are deceptively similar. It wasn’t until I timed the engine and tried turning it by hand that I found out my timing combination would not work. Every few rotations would skip a single tooth because the ecoboost sprocket has an ever so slightly wider tooth profile.



On the top right, ecoboost sprocket. Bottom left, duratec.

Next, I disassembled my dash. My speed3 is my track car, so I pulled my hvac stuff, and have no use for the screens up top. I turned the upper part of my dash into a gauge pod. I may write a thread on this, but here’s how it came out. Still waiting on the rest of my gauges to show up.



Lastly, finalized my belt system. I converted the tensioner to Ford’s BT114. This is what the FoST and FoRS use. Because I’m using the 4-rib crank from the ecoboost applications, I wanted to get a tensioner that was 4-rib. It needed a 54” belt to work out.



That’s all for now. Engine is going back in soon. Just need a new timing chain tensioner.

 

[dinnerplate]

Hmm

 

[Enki]

That ratchet almost fell into your belt lol

 

[dinnerplate]

That ratchet almost fell into your belt lol

Sshhhhh