How to change intermediate shaft/axle bearing Gen1 Mazdaspeed3

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picture please....or video...
here is my ~2mm bearing play . Also how far should the CV (driver side) be into the case? I can still pull mine out about 3mm before the CV locks. I've hammered these with blocks of wood and a 3lb sledge and cant get them in any farther. Passenger side inboard CV play is CV plus ~2mm shaft play.
 

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Another good vid on CV installs and removals. clip opening up! And to remove a stubborn one, push in and rotate it 90 and try again, then another 90. The clip may find its way back to 12:00 and allow it to come right out.
 
Check what mm clearance you have from dust shield of passenger CV to shaft. I have like 3-6mm and it seems excessive even if the shaft moves back and forth. I have aftermarket CV axles and am not 100% sure the passenger CV is fully seated in the shaft, even though I compressed it and hit the end with a block of wood and a 3lb hammer into the shaft.
 
here is my ~2mm bearing play . Also how far should the CV (driver side) be into the case? I can still pull mine out about 3mm before the CV locks. I've hammered these with blocks of wood and a 3lb sledge and cant get them in any farther. Passenger side inboard CV play is CV plus ~2mm shaft play.

I just saw these videos for the first time now. Not sure why I didn't get an email saying you posted. I will check mine this weekend and send a video.

Thing is I also have an aftermarket CV axle on that side. I suspected the OEM unit with 160k miles on it was making some noises on hard turns but that wasn't the case. Lord knows I'm not putting in back in but the aftermarket unit has a much thinner diameter shaft. And Initially I didnt think the aftermarket unit was the same length either...but it seems to have worked.

Cross shaft is still OEM so I will check that play as well.

Hang tight bruh.
 
Another good vid on CV installs and removals. clip opening up! And to remove a stubborn one, push in and rotate it 90 and try again, then another 90. The clip may find its way back to 12:00 and allow it to come right out.


I don't thinks his idea is a bad one but I doubt it makes much difference because the clip doesnt hang down that much and if the bevelled edge helps center it what difference does it make which way the clip is oriented?
 
Here is the video I promised eons ago.


Not sure why the video wont play in this post so go here (youtu.be/rrpgl8GSp5E?si=1zk19aIaVjedjEMN)
 
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Just came here to say that i just did this job myself and this guide is spot on, though there's a few workarounds if you want to. I pulled the caliper and rotor, removed the lower ball joint and the outer tie rod end and got the axle out with only that detached and the knuckle still attached to the strut (I hate removing/reinstalling the knuckle to the strut). I just pushed the axle through the knuckle and it comes out and goes in fine. I have a corksport downpipe so the exhaust isn't in the way and it's just the 3 bolts on the carrier housing. I totally cheated the bearing part in a couple ways. One, I only replaced the bearing, not the dust seals - they don't need to be perfect so if you can save them you can reuse them - and I took it to a local machine shop and paid them 50 bucks to do the pres part for me. I don't like dealing with press bearings if I can avoid it and any real machine shop can handle that kind of bearing press in about 10 minutes. I dropped it off for a couple hours but it took no time at all.

Great write up, still very valid in 2025.

And to add, as these cars get older and dealer parts start to get harder to get this is a 6206-C4-FAG bearing - https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/6206-c4-fag - 30mm ID, 62mm OD and 16mm thick
 
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Thanks. Not easy typing those instructions in with pics. Glad it helped you.
Ready to get flamed here however...is there a way to diagnose the failed bearing without tearing the axle out? I read the thread and didn't see how to diagnose it.

I ask because my Gen1 decided last summer to start making a nasty chattering sound seemingly out of nowhere. I thought it might be the Throwout Bearing as the sound was only present under load but would go away when the clutch was depressed. The sound was not replicated when the car is standing still at idle nor when reved up. Changed the throwout bearing a couple weeks ago and although the bearing was worn...the sound was still there.

Didn't think to check the axle shaft bearing when the axle was out as quite frankly...wasn't considering it as a potential culprit. Rather be able to pinpoint the issue before tearing it all apart again.

Installed a South Bend Upgraded Clutch with Lightweight Flywheel years ago. During that install I changed out the pivot fork, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder as well. Just want to get the car back on the road...I miss the zoom zooooooom.
 
Why flamed? Its a good question.

Honestly, not that could I find. Mine was very sloppy when I changed it and making some noises at highway speeds. I guessed it was in bad shape and it certainly was but I couldn't know that until I took the bearing out.
 
Why flamed? Its a good question.

Honestly, not that could I find. Mine was very sloppy when I changed it and making some noises at highway speeds. I guessed it was in bad shape and it certainly was but I couldn't know that until I took the bearing out.
Used to the MSF.Org days my dude lol. Been a loooooong time MS3 owner. Old username was BottleOfCola13 out of Nator WNY. Used to the "ask a question and get flamed because it was a seemingly basic question"

Mine was quiet until about 2.25hrs into a 2.5hr drive. Put the clutch in the slow down for traffic and when I released the clutch it started chattering real bad. Pulled over to check the suspension in case of failing tie rod or ball joint or loose coilovers...everything was solid so in typical MS3 fashion..I carried on, watched monster trucks and drove 2.5hrs home.

When I had the car apart a couple weekends ago I inspected the clutch (without removal as I didn't have new clutch bolts at the time) and everything looked perfect. No abnormal play in anything. Replaced the shift fork spring with parts from the forst replacement as it was a bit bent and changed out that throwout bearing. Just trying to rule out anything internally transmission wise and again...avoid tearing it down again to replace something that MIGHT be bad. Hours us old farts don't always have available lol.
 
Old Fart,

Well I considering I bought my car in 2008 and its now 18 years old, unless I was 16 at the time, I'm no spring chicken... and the flaming phenomenon is a sure sign of immaturity.

I only heard the noise associated with the bearing when I was on the highway cruising along and as per my video above, its not something you can feel for by moving the axle with your hand.

How many miles on your car/support bearing?
 
Old Fart,

Well I considering I bought my car in 2008 and its now 18 years old, unless I was 16 at the time, I'm no spring chicken... and the flaming phenomenon is a sure sign of immaturity.

I only heard the noise associated with the bearing when I was on the highway cruising along and as per my video above, its not something you can feel for by moving the axle with your hand.

How many miles on your car/support bearing?
Bought my 08.5 back in 2010 with 25k miles. Currently sitting with 80k on the odometer. It's seen some spirited driving and a burnout or two...or three...

I saw the video and the sound I hear is similar. The only difference is that mine is making that noise under acceleration/load. If it's cruising at say 65mph, flat road, cruise control on...it doesn't make any noise.

Likewise, after putting the new throwout bearing in...the car still chattered BUT...when I went WOT...it was silent. I have a couple videos of those instances as well
 
The many Youtubers say that 2000-2010 is peak car for feel and reliability. My speed3 is still engaging after all these years. Not the most refined but for what I paid used with 5k miles and 177k miles later i cant complain.

It might become a classic. Maybe.

We have very different symptoms so I dont think you have a carrier bearing failure. Especially with only 80k miles.
 
The many Youtubers say that 2000-2010 is peak car for feel and reliability. My speed3 is still engaging after all these years. Not the most refined but for what I paid used with 5k miles and 177k miles later i cant complain.

It might become a classic. Maybe.

We have very different symptoms so I dont think you have a carrier bearing failure. Especially with only 80k miles.
We have no choice at this point. We've kept ours around this long...might as well hold on to them and get that classic car insurance lmfao!

I love the feel of the car when driving it as intended. Would love to get it on track again for that feeling alone lol.

Really hoping it's not something transmission or differential related. Guess I'll just have to rip the axle out again and check that bearing for slop.
 
Maybe a bearing in the trans where the axle goes in?
Had checked the one in the trans when swapping the Throwout Bearing and it felt solid. Didn't have replacement clutch bolts on hand so wasn't able to pull the clutch and flywheel to check the bearing behind them. Did the job in a day with plans to have it driving the following day...

Here's the video of the noise it makes. Initial chattering is the LWFW and Clutch then as I accelerate the noise makes itself known.
 

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nope that's not similar to the bearing noise I heard. Your noise RPM dependent? CV joint? Does it change if you're turning the steering wheel?
 
nope that's not similar to the bearing noise I heard. Your noise RPM dependent? CV joint? Does it change if you're turning the steering wheel?
Didn't seem to change with RPM but it does seem to quiet under hard acceleration. Also didn't really notice if steering changed the sound...HOWEVER...I did also have a really funky shake in the steering wheel that would show up and go away.

Say I'm on the highway and turn the car around a left hand bend, after straightening the wheel, the steering wheel would shake left/right/left/etc. BUT...After taking a right hand bend and straightening out...the shake would disappear. I gave the the coilovers a hard shakedown thinking something might be loose but I wonder if it was a CV failing? Possible?

I'll have to get under there and double check the driver side CV. I thought it felt a little sloppy when popping the axle out but was persuaded that it was fine. 4 dude brains in one garage...everyone knows everything and nothing all at the same time.
 
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