How to change intermediate shaft/axle bearing Gen1 Mazdaspeed3

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lex2007
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Some things are so hard to diagnose. I use Chassis Ears sometimes which are super time consuming to set up, damage prone, and even then they dont offer you good answers. Sometimes you need to throw parts at stuff....

77k failing OEM CV? Doubt it. Likely something is loose...you're gonna have to check all the bolts...suspension, subframe, endlinks. Unless you already have.
 
Lex2007 said:
Some things are so hard to diagnose. I use Chassis Ears sometimes which are super time consuming to set up, damage prone, and even then they dont offer you good answers. Sometimes you need to throw parts at stuff....

77k failing OEM CV? Doubt it. Likely something is loose...you're gonna have to check all the bolts...suspension, subframe, endlinks. Unless you already have.
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Suspension (coilovers) are the only thing that I haven't completely removed recently. Subframe was removed to drop the trans and replace the throwout bearing. Upgraded the endings while down there with Massive Adjustable Endlinks to correct the suspension geometry due to lowering with the BC Coilovers. Had actually been planning to pull the entire Coilover system out to "reset" and re-torque the hardware the get it realigned and scaled at a buddy's race shop. Tierods, control arms, ball joints, swaybar bushings...everything is solid.

Throwing parts at it is pretty much where I'm at as well lol. Kinda half tempted to just drive it locally and if the noise goes away on its own then whatever...if it goes BANG and then goes quiet...I'll have something definitively broken to fix LMAO. So long as it's not the transmission/differential that's scattered all over the road...we should be fiiiiiiiiine. Ooof
 
SettleDownTeapot said:
Suspension (coilovers) are the only thing that I haven't completely removed recently. Subframe was removed to drop the trans and replace the throwout bearing. Upgraded the endings while down there with Massive Adjustable Endlinks to correct the suspension geometry due to lowering with the BC Coilovers. Had actually been planning to pull the entire Coilover system out to "reset" and re-torque the hardware the get it realigned and scaled at a buddy's race shop. Tierods, control arms, ball joints, swaybar bushings...everything is solid.

Throwing parts at it is pretty much where I'm at as well lol. Kinda half tempted to just drive it locally and if the noise goes away on its own then whatever...if it goes BANG and then goes quiet...I'll have something definitively broken to fix LMAO. So long as it's not the transmission/differential that's scattered all over the road...we should be fiiiiiiiiine. Ooof
Click to expand...

I dont think a broken or loose front McPherson strut would cause noise like that when turning. A bad strut bearing woudnt make that noise either.

I have another car wth an undiagnosable creak in the suspension...Im at my wits end with it.
 
Are you turning or driving straight in your video? Does the sound change depending on what gear it's in? I am assuming it's the knock knock knock sound and not the whining sound you are chasing. Also this would be good in a separate thread.
 
Crazycanadian said:
Are you turning or driving straight in your video? Does the sound change depending on what gear it's in? I am assuming it's the knock knock knock sound and not the whining sound you are chasing. Also this would be good in a separate thread.
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The video is driving straight. When on the throttle through the gears the sound is present. Doesn't matter the gear. When the clutch is depressed the sound goes away. If rolling in gear...no sound. If clutch in and revving...no sound. Sound is not present when the car is not in motion either.

It's only present when under load in gear. And if y'all think I need a new sub I'm for it. I'll try to summarize what Lex and I have discussed previously and lay down the conditions for the sounds and a couple videos.
 
Lex2007 said:
I dont think a broken or loose front McPherson strut would cause noise like that when turning. A bad strut bearing woudnt make that noise either.

I have another car wth an undiagnosable creak in the suspension...Im at my wits end with it.
Click to expand...
I know it's nothing in the coilovers themselves I was just using them as the only thing NOT removed as when dropping the transmission basically everything under the engine and trans was removed. Nothing was visibly broken or showing damage.
 
Crazycanadian said:
How much have you lowered the car? Got a picture of the drive shaft angles at ride height? Stock mounts?
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Haven't messed with ride height in 11yrs or so. I think it's dropped maybe 1.5" if that. The wheels aren't tucked but pretty flush with the fender well. Not running spacers. If by mounts you're referring to engine mounts. Damond TMM and PMM as well as a PedoBear RMM.

Lifted the car earlier this evening and shook down the axles and now am pretty certain it's either the Driver CV Joint that's gettin sloppy AND/OR the intermediate shaft bearing is going/gone.

Vid 1 - Driver Side
Vid 2 - Passenger Side
Pic - Because JACKED
View attachment 20260615_192126.mp4View attachment 20260615_191929.mp4
20260615_192221.jpg
 
Generally the CV joint side by the hub doesn't move in and out much. The axles moves in and out on transmission tirpod joint. I won't say it's bad, but it's not great. If it was my car, I'd pull the axle out cut the boot off clean out all the grease and inspect whats worn before tossing a new axle in it.

The passenger side is a problem. The steady bearing should be pressed in place. It shouldn't move in and out. You'll need a whole new intermediate shaft. The bore the bearing is pressed into will be worn out.

The noise reminds me of a chipped final drive tooth or diff noise, but that's reeeally unlikely. based on your videos I'd be looking at the axles.
 
Crazycanadian said:
Generally the CV joint side by the hub doesn't move in and out much. The axles moves in and out on transmission tirpod joint. I won't say it's bad, but it's not great. If it was my car, I'd pull the axle out cut the boot off clean out all the grease and inspect whats worn before tossing a new axle in it.

The passenger side is a problem. The steady bearing should be pressed in place. It shouldn't move in and out. You'll need a whole new intermediate shaft. The bore the bearing is pressed into will be worn out.

The noise reminds me of a chipped final drive tooth or diff noise, but that's reeeally unlikely. based on your videos I'd be looking at the axles.
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I had a similar thought about a chipped or broken tooth but not trans or diff...potentially in the CV Joint itself? Could make some sense as to why only under load its making noise.

Already sourcing boot replacement kits as again, same thoughts last night. Rather pull it apart and find out I have $40 in spare boots rather than have a $450 axle chillin and find out it's not the problem.

Now, when I have it all apart...again...is there a way you know off hand on how to check that final drive gear without completely disassembling the trans? I suppose if I drained it and it were damaged I'd be likely to find something in the drain pan.
 
my cars's support bearing was spinning in the carrier so the new OEM bearing just plopped in with no force. I used some bearing glue to make up the difference.
 
Lex2007 said:
my cars's support bearing was spinning in the carrier so the new OEM bearing just plopped in with no force. I used some bearing glue to make up the difference.
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I saw that in the instructional you wrote.

You see the vids? In your professional internet wisdom, does that bearing look shot? I very much value your (and that Crazy Canadian's) insight.
 
Yuppers I saw the vids. Your car has less than 1/2 the miles mine has. (If not for COVID Id be at 300k by now and she would be in a junkyard. But i digress...)

The tripod (inner) moves in and out by design. The Rzeppa/ball joint really should not move much laterally. Compared to the video I posted, youtu.be/rrpgl8GSp5E?si=1zk19aIaVjedjEMN, yours looks like it moves way more laterally. Could your support bearing be spun at 88k? I suppose but seems early.
 
Lex2007 said:
Yuppers I saw the vids. Your car has less than 1/2 the miles mine has. (If not for COVID Id be at 300k by now and she would be in a junkyard. But i digress...)

The tripod (inner) moves in and out by design. The Rzeppa/ball joint really should not move much laterally. Compared to the video I posted, youtu.be/rrpgl8GSp5E?si=1zk19aIaVjedjEMN, yours looks like it moves way more laterally. Could your support bearing be spun at 88k? I suppose but seems early.
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Could be early failure due to the coilovers I suppose. I mean, the thing has been on em for the last 11yrs.
 
Lex2007 said:
So whats your first step? Support bearing?
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Thinkin that might be the best bet. Buy a bearing for the intermediate shaft and a boot kit for the driver side just to have it in case its not the issue.

Assuming the inner boot for a Mazda3 is the same for the MS3? PartGeek has an outer for the MS3 but all the inners are Mazda3.
 
Id get an OEM bearing. Youre troubleshooting and dont want to add adversity.

I dont know if they use the same CV joints...the non turbos produce much less torque so maybe they are smaller?
 
Lex2007 said:
Id get an OEM bearing. Youre troubleshooting and dont want to add adversity.

I dont know if they use the same CV joints...the non turbos produce much less torque so maybe they are smaller?
Click to expand...
Found a kit on ebay for the boots. Ordering the bearing you listed. OEM unless upgraded...and I don't know how/why anyone would need to upgrade a support bearing.
 
Boots are kinda fun, but so messy....use gloves, Bruh. When I dont, I regret it.

Sometimes generic kits dont work out. I know I posted on boot kits for the speed3 at some point. I just got burned on a generic kit for a Grman car...Holy waste of time. Outer boot was just slightly too big in circumference at the band clamp kept slipping off. 4 band clams latter, I gave up. Also it was way longer than the OEM unit so it didn't clamp in the correct place along the CV shaft. . CACA!

Me mad.
 
Last edited:
Lex2007 said:
Boots are kinda fun, but so messy....use gloves, Bruh. When I dont, I regret it.

Sometimes generic kits dont work out. I know I posted on boot kits for the speed3 at some point. I just got burned on a generic kit for a Grman car...Holy waste of time. Outer boot was just slightly too big in circumference at the band clamp kept slipping off. 4 band clams latter, I gave up. it was also way longer than the OEM unit. CACA!

Me mad.
Click to expand...
Lmao. I've replaces a few dust boots in my day. Gloves on u til they rip...then embrace the mess lol.

Hopefully the boot kit isn't even necessary and it's the support bearing that's toasted.

Btw...that bearing glue hold well?
 
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