Idle issue/kr under 10+ psi boost

Enki said:
Just because corn made the knock go away doesn't mean there isn't still an issue. Still need to check the CPS and figure out what oil is being used, and potentially change it if it's garbage because it WILL cost you your engine (not if but when), especially on a fat AFR factory tune.
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It was done at a dealer so imagine decent oil? I’ve owned it for a month lol so I’ll do my best to get some good oil. What’s considered ideal oil? My gto ran royals purple
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I already posted about timing and linked you to what I did to check it. It is the 20th tooth.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/idle-issue-kr-under-10-psi-boost.13804/#post-98209

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-18#post-81233

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/installing-vvt-and-timing-components.8723/

I would check all those things again.
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I checked what I have the ability to check currently. The e85 mix which I’m not tuned for (an I know I need to be) has resolved almost all very issue. The idle us cleaned up so maybe bad gas idk. But I can’t really afford to rip my valve cover timing cover an buy more washers to 100% retime the speed. I used all required tools. Including the pin that goes through the balancer into the front cover, the rear rank hold for tdc, an the plate to hold cam timing. I used a 24m to hold the cams an torqued to 55 on the new vvt. Didn’t touch the exhaust cam. Put all tensioners on an released the tensioner before torquing the final vvt. An everything tdc as far as the rear crank pin upon torquing balancer.
 
You don't need new washers to check the timing. And if the timing is off you need to find the money for washers or you will be looking for money for a motor
 
Easter Bunny said:
You don't need new washers to check the timing. And if the timing is off you need to find the money for washers or you will be looking for money for a motor
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I’ve already verified timing via removing intercooler. Cyl1 plug inserting the rear crank pin an matching to the sensor. It’s all good. I might through a new crank sensor at it just for peace of mind.

My bigger question is can using E mix somehow mask the issue???

not trying to get snarky just general concern an confusion. These things seem like such a PITA compared to my 04 GTO

There’s been a devolpment !? The car threw a U0100 an u0101 it says throttle body cleaning. So ima do that. An I have verified my timing with the pin an manual crank. It’s happy ! It’s where it should be !

L337TurboZ said:
All I'm saying is that if you think there are any issues then you need to try and resolve them before getting tuned.

A few posts back you talked about running another tank or two of 93/91 through it to see how it does. It could be you got a batch of bad gas, I've seen that happen at my shop from time to time.

A good rule of thumb is there is no fix in a bottle. So if you put E85 in your tank and your knock went down then something might have been wrong with the gas and the E85 masked it or there could be something else going on. Either way any tuner or anyone running a car on a Dyno will tell you to have everything 100 percent ready to go before the process starts.
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I wanted to reply to this as I did a few things all at once which has fucked me as far narrowing the cure. I updated the AP. I filled with some E an I verified the cps the pop has all but vanished an if it comes back after I fill with 91 I’ll get back to finding it why. But with it throwing a TB code or at least a clean the TB code im going to do that asap at work.
 
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Effective octane of E100 in direct injected engines is about 160. You only need about E33 to become knock proof and capable of increasing timing to the point that you start *losing* power, and without any knock present.
 
I used about 3 gallons E an about 9 91 so I should be under that 33. It was just something I’ve seen a dozen times to verify legitimate knock. After this tank I’ll do 100% 91 an see if it comes back. I plan on tuning through Greek asap for both 91 an E. This whole thread as given me a ton of knowledge so the more info I get the better I am later down the road. I plan on turning it into a built 400ish car with a thread so if it blows it’ll get a built block!

Enki said:
Effective octane of E100 in direct injected engines is about 160. You only need about E33 to become knock proof and capable of increasing timing to the point that you start *losing* power, and without any knock present.
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I've read a few of your other posts places, what's sticky black death????
 
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King Crow said:
I used about 3 gallons E an about 9 91 so I should be under that 33. It was just something I’ve seen a dozen times to verify legitimate knock. After this tank I’ll do 100% 91 an see if it comes back. I plan on tuning through Greek asap for both 91 an E. This whole thread as given me a ton of knowledge so the more info I get the better I am later down the road. I plan on turning it into a built 400ish car with a thread so if it blows it’ll get a built block!


I've read a few of your other posts places, what's sticky black death????
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Build up of black goop ie black death in the hpfp from running higher ethanol mixes, gums up the hpfp and it no workie anymore.

It can be combated by regular cleaning and running ethanol safe o-rings in the hpfp such as the Rey's Mazda parts kit or corksport kit. You can also get your own o-rings see https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/hpfp-o-rings.1001/

When you're looking at tunas I recommend freektune or purple drank, e-tuning is a wonderful thing.
 
Awafrican said:
Build up of black goop ie black death in the hpfp from running higher ethanol mixes, gums up the hpfp and it no workie anymore.

It can be combated by regular cleaning and running ethanol safe o-rings in the hpfp such as the Rey's Mazda parts kit or corksport kit.

When you're looking at tunas I recommend freektune or purple drank, e-tuning is a wonderful thing.
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Yea I’m going Freek in a week or two. Moneys tight at the moment! Should I leave my car as is with my issues until I get an e tune or will the e tune just mask issues? Make it more if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
 
King Crow said:
Yea I’m going Freek in a week or two. Moneys tight at the moment! Should I leave my car as is with my issues until I get an e tune or will the e tune just mask issues? Make it more if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
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You need to fix any issues before getting any tune. Otherwise if he see's random problems it's gonna take longer to tune or he will want more money.

You could always ask him for an OTS map or two initially to see if that helps your issues before continuing further.
 
L337TurboZ said:
You need to fix any issues before getting any tune. Otherwise if he see's random problems it's gonna take longer to tune or he will want more money.

You could always ask him for an OTS map or two initially to see if that helps your issues before continuing further.
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How do I know it’s still an issue if the e fixed it? There’s only an issue because I’m a mechanic who Knows something’s wrong if I was just some guy who owned this car you’d assume it was running great!

an this next question is out of left field but I figure no better place to ask. Do any of you ever hear of a pcm comm issues? Specifically u0100 ? Just curious
 
All I'm saying is that if you think there are any issues then you need to try and resolve them before getting tuned.

A few posts back you talked about running another tank or two of 93/91 through it to see how it does. It could be you got a batch of bad gas, I've seen that happen at my shop from time to time.

A good rule of thumb is there is no fix in a bottle. So if you put E85 in your tank and your knock went down then something might have been wrong with the gas and the E85 masked it or there could be something else going on. Either way any tuner or anyone running a car on a Dyno will tell you to have everything 100 percent ready to go before the process starts.
 
The E didn't fix any issues, it just works around them (because it doesn't give a fuck).

Your options are as follows:
1. Get the car running *properly* (on pump gas)
2. Always run a corn mix to hide the issues

Note: Choosing option two will get you a kick to the throat.
 
Enki said:
The E didn't fix any issues, it just works around them (because it doesn't give a fuck).

Your options are as follows:
1. Get the car running *properly* (on pump gas)
2. Always run a corn mix to hide the issues

Note: Choosing option two will get you a kick to the throat.
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Maybe I’m into throat kicks I’ll do option 1 I’m anal about issues. When I have time I’ll tear the fucker down an make dam sure it’s perfect timing maybe even get more washers an just reset the chains. They’re all new so it’s just a matter of pulling accessories and buying a few washers. Moneys just tight when you’ve been out of work for 3 months with a shattered leg
 
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