Idle issue/kr under 10+ psi boost

[King Crow]

Is that a lot of timing ?

 

[Easter Bunny]

The location of the sensor is adjustable if I'm understanding the problem correctly

 

[King Crow]

The location of the sensor is adjustable if I'm understanding the problem correctly

You’re not. The issue is the heads tdc. Plate in. Bolt in bottom side. There’s a hole in the timing cover an the balancer. They’re supposed to (according to ford) line up when timed properly.

Can you redo the timing without having the upper cams loose? Do I have to loosen them so they spin free or can I leave them an lay the chain

 

[Easter Bunny]

I got you now. Your saying that with the chain on the cam sprockets you can't line up the balancer where it should be. In that case you're will almost certainly need to loosen the cam sprockets so that you can get everything lined up

 

[L337TurboZ]

Wait a second the crank isn't keyed. The crank and cams could be on time but the crank pulley could be out of time. When you set timing with the pulley the tool needs to be in the block for the crank, the came are locked what the their tool and ideally you would have a pin or something lined up in place for the alignment hole for timing to make sure the pulley doesn't slip.

You sure you can't just line up the cams with the tool, and then try to reinstall the crank pulley in it's correct orientation, set the CPS and see what happens? Would be a lot better than a whole year down of the timing cover.

If you can install the timing tool into the block, rotate till it contacts, and the cams are lined up with their tool you know that the actual chain timing is correct and that the pulley was off. Then you're only removing the valve cover/HPFP and the blind plug.

 

[King Crow]

Wait a second the crank isn't keyed. The crank and cams could be on time but the crank pulley could be out of time. When you set timing with the pulley the tool needs to be in the block for the crank, the came are locked what the their tool and ideally you would have a pin or something lined up in place for the alignment hole for timing to make sure the pulley doesn't slip.

You sure you can't just line up the cams with the tool, and then try to reinstall the crank pulley in it's correct orientation, set the CPS and see what happens? Would be a lot better than a whole year down of the timing cover.

If you can install the timing tool into the block, rotate till it contacts, and the cams are lined up with their tool you know that the actual chain timing is correct and that the pulley was off. Then you're only removing the valve cover/HPFP and the blind plug.

Then you play the game of. Did I get oil on the diamond washers. I spent 40 bucks bought new washers took all the gears off. An the cams are aligned. Back on the timing cover goes an then I’m just going to use the 20th tooth fucked the alignment hole on the cover. I’m not doing this shit a third time.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Then you play the game of. Did I get oil on the diamond washers. I spent 40 bucks bought new washers took all the gears off. An the cams are aligned. Back on the timing cover goes an then I’m just going to use the 20th tooth fucked the alignment hole on the cover. I’m not doing this shit a third time.

It is possible for the tooth to not match up with the pulley because the tooth wheel is pressed on to the pulley and at high RPM rev limiter banging it can slip "ask me how I know" I am not sure why yours is off but if it was off on install you should have been able to catch it the first time. People generally will weld that plate to the pulley so it does not slip. That is generally a thing for people revving out over 7600 and making 500+ whp but I suppose it could happen on less. If the engine is mechanically in time and just the timing wheel is off a little you could try and ghetto rig it like I did instead of taking it all apart again. I used JBWELD to secure my wheel.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-20#post-86039
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-18#post-81233



I did it to all 3 sections

 

[King Crow]

It is possible for the tooth to not match up with the pulley because the tooth wheel is pressed on to the pulley and at high RPM rev limiter banging it can slip "ask me how I know" I am not sure why yours is off but if it was off on install you should have been able to catch it the first time. People generally will weld that plate to the pulley so it does not slip. That is generally a thing for people revving out over 7600 and making 500+ whp but I suppose it could happen on less. If the engine is mechanically in time and just the timing wheel is off a little you could try and ghetto rig it like I did instead of taking it all apart again. I used JBWELD to secure my wheel.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-20#post-86039
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-18#post-81233

View attachment 21183

I did it to all 3 sections

I love the redneckery but I took mine down to gears. Took it all off spin it over 360 it lined up the issue is it’s not possible with the engine in the car to get the torque they want on that bolt on the balancer. An I could’ve just loosened an retightened but I’ve heard or read about those washers an id rather spend time than money piston to valve cuz oil hit a washer ! It seems better but it’s impossible to tell cuz the god juice of E is going to mask it still lol

 

[Awafrican]

Well get that fresh 91 in there and hopefully it's fixed.

Hey did you get those U codes fixed?

 

[King Crow]

Well get that fresh 91 in there and hopefully it's fixed.

Hey did you get those U codes fixed?

They come an go. I can drive check codes nonissue. Check again at random an theyre there. They don’t cause any issues I can see so
Idk wtf to do about them

 

[King Crow]

Is 17.28 over boosting? I’m in Peoria AZ stage 0 tune. AFR still dips into the 9s during any wot but no other really concern that I can see. Will update post after I refill with 91

 

[jdab555]

Is 17.28 over boosting? I’m in Peoria AZ stage 0 tune. AFR still dips into the 9s during any wot but no other really concern that I can see. Will update post after I refill with 91

15psi is target boost on a stock tune, +/- 1, that looks like a slight overboost. Have you done boost leak tests / checked your ebcs to make sure it isn't cracked?

 

[King Crow]

15psi is target boost on a stock tune, +/- 1, that looks like a slight overboost. Have you done boost leak tests / checked your ebcs to make sure it isn't cracked?

Nah I found my turbo inlet was a little loose. Tightened it. The bpv might have a crack in the return hose but not all the way through it. I can’t really find any leaks. Seems to sound better engine wise since the realigning of the crank. The stage 0 is probably why it’s hitting 17. It doesn’t spike it holds 17 an it’s not having any issues. I’d assume a boost leak would show up as spikes? Or not reaching target boost

I believe I remember reading the stage 0 targets 16psi +/- 1 when you read the tune on ap manager

 

[jdab555]

Nah I found my turbo inlet was a little loose. Tightened it. The bpv might have a crack in the return hose but not all the way through it. I can’t really find any leaks. Seems to sound better engine wise since the realigning of the crank. The stage 0 is probably why it’s hitting 17. It doesn’t spike it holds 17 an it’s not having any issues. I’d assume a boost leak would show up as spikes? Or not reaching target boost

I believe I remember reading the stage 0 targets 16psi +/- 1 when you read the tune on ap manager

That's probably not incorrect

 

[Easter Bunny]

The stock tune is load bases not boost based if you are at altitude you will have higher boost to hit the same load target

 

[King Crow]

Well i

The stock tune is load bases not boost based if you are at altitude you will have higher boost to hit the same load target

now only hit around 13 or 14 an lemme tell you. The car feels gutless compared to the 4.5* of timing I had lol. Sob flew before an feels slower now for sure

 

[Enki]

Thats...stock timing. You probably had a good 20-30% bump from the timing adjustment, easily.

 

[King Crow]

God it felt so fast though! But I guess a tuner can do that with some simple e tuning

 

[Enki]

It's the DI. Unlike other cars, we get minimal gains from AFR but massive ones from timing.
Pump gas is maxed out around 14 deg @ 6k (depending on engine, every one is different) but you can get another 6 on top of that with enough corn.

 

[King Crow]

It's the DI. Unlike other cars, we get minimal gains from AFR but massive ones from timing.
Pump gas is maxed out around 14 deg @ 6k (depending on engine, every one is different) but you can get another 6 on top of that with enough corn.

So should I have left it there an just told my tuner.