Ok thanks man I just was curious. I wonder if ms6 and ms3 are interchangeable axles? We use same trans but are probably mounted in different locations
JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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They are not interchangeable
Didn’t figure they were.. thanks man
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I was cleaning up my exhaust tunnel as the OEM stuff is falling apart and makes an itchy fiberglass mess. While down there @Sho advised me to make a shield for the power steering lines. This is close to where the dump pipe will be and I am waiting on block stuff so might as well keep trucking.
I have a bunch of scrap license plates and wanted to use my rivnut tool so here we go.
I think it turned out pretty well and does not really flop around or anything.
I also got my order of OEM parts from Tasca, took forever to arrive and one of the diamond crank washers is bent "sad face" will have to get them to send another.
I decided to "flush" the heater core while I had easy access. I used some radiator flush stuff from walmart and am letting it soak in there for a few hours. I will then flush with distilled water.
My Rockauto injector kits arrived so I decided to clean up and put the new goodies on them. Thanks @KiwiFlavor for the cleaned injectors , love you long time. Here is a quick guide on how all the seals sit.
This is the order they go onto the injector , these are old bits but you get the idea.
The concave part of the rings go down toward the injector bottom you can see how the injector is concave and they sit nicely in the groove.
Here is a finished injector with CS Seal.
That's all for now, just have to keep plugging away at little things.
I was cleaning up my exhaust tunnel as the OEM stuff is falling apart and makes an itchy fiberglass mess. While down there @Sho advised me to make a shield for the power steering lines. This is close to where the dump pipe will be and I am waiting on block stuff so might as well keep trucking.
I have a bunch of scrap license plates and wanted to use my rivnut tool so here we go.
I think it turned out pretty well and does not really flop around or anything.
I also got my order of OEM parts from Tasca, took forever to arrive and one of the diamond crank washers is bent "sad face" will have to get them to send another.
I decided to "flush" the heater core while I had easy access. I used some radiator flush stuff from walmart and am letting it soak in there for a few hours. I will then flush with distilled water.
My Rockauto injector kits arrived so I decided to clean up and put the new goodies on them. Thanks @KiwiFlavor for the cleaned injectors , love you long time. Here is a quick guide on how all the seals sit.
This is the order they go onto the injector , these are old bits but you get the idea.
The concave part of the rings go down toward the injector bottom you can see how the injector is concave and they sit nicely in the groove.
Here is a finished injector with CS Seal.
That's all for now, just have to keep plugging away at little things.
KiwiFlavor
Greenie N00B Member
@JohnnyTightlips rove you rong time.
This also makes me want to make that heat shield and sleeve my power steering hoses.
This also makes me want to make that heat shield and sleeve my power steering hoses.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Mini Update:
The machine shop turned my stuff around in a week, which was pretty wild as they said 3-4 weeks. They did a great job from what I can tell and I am optimistically confident in their work. The guy gave me a tour of their shop and they were working on some really cool stuff. Was neat to see it all and he gave some tips for getting the parts prepped and for first start up. If anyone else is near here I recommend these guys. It cost me $615 to get the block bored,honed, cleaned crank cleaned polished, rotating assembly balanced, Pistons and Rods put together, head cleaned and decked. http://www.abrahamsmachine.com/
Last night I got it on the stand.
As the parts are all in spec I ended up order standard size bearings. Kevin at Oddball performance recommended Clevite AL Mains and H Rod Bearings. Rock auto had the best price.
1 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE MS2245A Crankshaft Main Bearing
4 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1925H Connecting Rod Bearing
It won't be until next week that those arrive so I plan to start getting the head back together. I will be cleaning it some more and then lapping the valves. This video is perfect and I will be following his steps. He is the same guy that made an excellent video on Cylinder Head Porting & Polishing
A lot of the upcoming task will be tedious and require some focus so it will be slow going for me with the kids being wild all the time and working late I don't want to mess something up.
The machine shop turned my stuff around in a week, which was pretty wild as they said 3-4 weeks. They did a great job from what I can tell and I am optimistically confident in their work. The guy gave me a tour of their shop and they were working on some really cool stuff. Was neat to see it all and he gave some tips for getting the parts prepped and for first start up. If anyone else is near here I recommend these guys. It cost me $615 to get the block bored,honed, cleaned crank cleaned polished, rotating assembly balanced, Pistons and Rods put together, head cleaned and decked. http://www.abrahamsmachine.com/
Last night I got it on the stand.
As the parts are all in spec I ended up order standard size bearings. Kevin at Oddball performance recommended Clevite AL Mains and H Rod Bearings. Rock auto had the best price.
1 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE MS2245A Crankshaft Main Bearing
4 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1925H Connecting Rod Bearing
It won't be until next week that those arrive so I plan to start getting the head back together. I will be cleaning it some more and then lapping the valves. This video is perfect and I will be following his steps. He is the same guy that made an excellent video on Cylinder Head Porting & Polishing
A lot of the upcoming task will be tedious and require some focus so it will be slow going for me with the kids being wild all the time and working late I don't want to mess something up.
I bought the same bearings yesterday off Rock Auto. Great minds think alike man! Everything is looking awesome keep it up!Mini Update:
The machine shop turned my stuff around in a week, which was pretty wild as they said 3-4 weeks. They did a great job from what I can tell and I am optimistically confident in their work. The guy gave me a tour of their shop and they were working on some really cool stuff. Was neat to see it all and he gave some tips for getting the parts prepped and for first start up. If anyone else is near here I recommend these guys. It cost me $615 to get the block bored,honed, cleaned crank cleaned polished, rotating assembly balanced, Pistons and Rods put together, head cleaned and decked. http://www.abrahamsmachine.com/
Last night I got it on the stand.
As the parts are all in spec I ended up order standard size bearings. Kevin at Oddball performance recommended Clevite AL Mains and H Rod Bearings. Rock auto had the best price.
1 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE MS2245A Crankshaft Main Bearing
4 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1925H Connecting Rod Bearing
It won't be until next week that those arrive so I plan to start getting the head back together. I will be cleaning it some more and then lapping the valves. This video is perfect and I will be following his steps. He is the same guy that made an excellent video on Cylinder Head Porting & Polishing
A lot of the upcoming task will be tedious and require some focus so it will be slow going for me with the kids being wild all the time and working late I don't want to mess something up.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I believe it was a Fisher spider. Sorry that reply took so long lol.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Spent like 4+ hours lapping the valves. It took forever but I wanted this to be done right and I did not want to mess with it ever again "fingers crossed" I followed the video I posted before. Here are the steps I did.
Left side is complete here too.
All done, kill me now. Still need to clean and assemble but glad to be past that. If you are thinking of doing this yourself it is really just a giant time suck, not difficult at all. Take breaks so you don't fuck it up or miss something.
Spent like 4+ hours lapping the valves. It took forever but I wanted this to be done right and I did not want to mess with it ever again "fingers crossed" I followed the video I posted before. Here are the steps I did.
- Clean Valve and head valve part
- Apply coarse grit valve compound , Lube valve stem with oil and few drops in head
- Grind until sound changes and starts to smooth, like 2-4 min "follow video"
- Clean Valve and head, Repeat the above process 3 times for Coarse and the 3 times for Fine, then clean and lube and check to squeaks "watch the video" PRO TIP if you put a tiny bit of oil on the suction for the lapping tool it will help it stick better, clean both surfaces before sticking it to the valve and press it down until it bottoms out on it.
- Before putting the head back together clean it all again with brake clean and make sure the valves go back to the spots they were mated with on the head, otherwise you did it all in vain. "check for leaks too" if leaking then do more work SON
Left side is complete here too.
All done, kill me now. Still need to clean and assemble but glad to be past that. If you are thinking of doing this yourself it is really just a giant time suck, not difficult at all. Take breaks so you don't fuck it up or miss something.
They are lapping my valves in the shop as we speak/post lol Looks good man it will all be worth it!
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I got all the valve springs seated and detents in place. The "Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer" worked amazing. I actually would suggest getting the dual Lisle 36050 kit if the smaller one is smaller then the 36200 as the removal tool is almost too big and can score the bucket walls if you are not careful. So if anyone buys the Lisle 36050 let me know.
Step 5 Pic
Step 6 Pic "not in pic but make sure you press it down flat against the retainer" youtube has some vids too
Step 6 Pic
Now it is time to start building the short block. Not sure when I will be able to start on that.
I got all the valve springs seated and detents in place. The "Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer" worked amazing. I actually would suggest getting the dual Lisle 36050 kit if the smaller one is smaller then the 36200 as the removal tool is almost too big and can score the bucket walls if you are not careful. So if anyone buys the Lisle 36050 let me know.
- Put a rag under the valve so it can't move.
- Oil and install spring.
- Oil and Install retainer.
- Put keepers into retainer and then press down with your thumb to seat them they won't go all the way but will grab the stem a bit and get in place.
- Now Use the Lisle tool and line it up with the middle of the valve at this time you also want to line up the spring so it is centered. Push the tool down so it sits flat against the retainer.
- Hit the Lisle tool with one good wack of the rubber mallot, it may take a few tries but a solid hit should do it.
- Profit and rev to 8k
Step 5 Pic
Step 6 Pic "not in pic but make sure you press it down flat against the retainer" youtube has some vids too
Step 6 Pic
Now it is time to start building the short block. Not sure when I will be able to start on that.
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Maisonvi
Grass-Roots Vendor
I have to say, this is all pretty impressive work, and your documentation is the kinda stuff that this forum needs. Good work.
Now I want to go see if I can save/rebuild my fire motor just to do it from the ground up by hand like this.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Thanks for the awesome feedback. I am trying to make this build as helpful as I can without it being too much. I could probably break it into mini how to's at some point.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
My dump pipe came in and this thing is BEAUTIFUL. Instant Boner, probably the nicest looking thing on my car. DTP Fab on facebook is the shit, thanks Jim!
Cranking it - Fun times with my Crank @alexwlwsn
I got some time last night to get the crank installed. This was not very difficult but you need to be a little methodical and take your time. The machine shop had checked clearances so I did not do any plasti gauge "JUST GONNA SEND IT"
Here is the procedure I followed. This video was a HUGE help. The bearings I used are Clevite MS-2245A
My dump pipe came in and this thing is BEAUTIFUL. Instant Boner, probably the nicest looking thing on my car. DTP Fab on facebook is the shit, thanks Jim!
Cranking it - Fun times with my Crank @alexwlwsn
I got some time last night to get the crank installed. This was not very difficult but you need to be a little methodical and take your time. The machine shop had checked clearances so I did not do any plasti gauge "JUST GONNA SEND IT"
Here is the procedure I followed. This video was a HUGE help. The bearings I used are Clevite MS-2245A
- While you have the bare block there make sure you install the oil squirters and the BSD kit plug. I used red loctite on the bsd plug and some blue on the squirters. I do not know if that is needed but it makes me feel better. I did have to buy 1 new squirter from the previous engine exploding. I cleaned out the other squirters with brake clean. I did not use tq specs just nice and tight, don't go wild they are not very big bolts.
- Now it is time to clean shit and clean it REAL GOOD. I used Naptha to clean everything. I also used break clean to spray out the oil passages on the crank. Clean all bearings and Clean all Bearing surfaces. Clean the crank Main Bearing surfaces, you can leave the rod ones as those should remain oiled until you are ready for the rods to go in. Use multiple rags and take your time. Clean motor = happy motor. The machine shop recommended I use Scotts Pro-Grade shop towels as they are cheaper and low/no lint. Do this, do not use shitty paper towels. I found them cheap in the paint aisle at Farm and Fleet
- Now that all the surfaces are clean you can start installing the bearings on the cradle and into the block. Watch that video and other videos to get a good idea on how to do this. Clean them again before install just to be sure. You want them to go in dry "that's not what she said" The ends will be flush and the bottoms centered. The Bearings that have the groove in them go into the block, the ones that are just flat go into the cradle. Another clue is that the block bearings have holes for the oil too. The thrust washer main bearing goes in the middle you can't really mess it up if you pay attention.
- Now that the bearings are in place and everything is clean. Lube them up with a decent coat of assembly lube. Don't go wild but a nice coat will do. I forgot to take a pic but watch the video I linked. I used the Red Line assembly lube and it is NICE. Crazy smooth and the crank spins with ease. It also had great reviews. You only need to lube the bearings the crank will get lubed when it ins set in there.
- Now triple check that the main journals are clean on the crank and set it in the block. Be gentle and it is heavy so be aware. Once it is in there you can install your studs. OEM uses bolts but I do not like messing with torque to yield so I just got the ARP MAIN Stud Kit the instructions are on their site as well. The video also covers this very well. You will want to thread all the studs in so that they bottom out. Use a wrench and tighten to like 2 ft lbs, you are really just making sure they are bottomed out. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN and DO NOT LUBE. Now loosen each on and then tighten again by hand , double check they are all hand tight.
- You can now lube up the bearings on the cradle and slowly drop the cradle down onto the crank. Make sure it is in the right direction I forgot to take a pic but you can figure it out same with the the crank. Now get that ARP lube and generously lube up the washers, put all the washers in place. Now put lube inside the threads of the nuts and tighten all nuts down by hand until they bottom out. You will want to start in the middle and tighten in 20 ft lb increments in a circular pattern "check video" until you reach 60 ft lbs then double check that each is at 60ft lbs. So tighten all to 20ft lb, then to 40 ft lb then 60 ft lb. Clean off excessive ARP lube.
- You should be able to spin the crank by hand now and breathe a sigh of relief that it is in the block and you no longer have to worry about it sitting on a shelf.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update
I got all my engine parts out and on a table so I can start putting things together. Last night I started doing ring gaps with the filer. @alexwlwsn was a good buddy pal and answered a few questions. I will break it down for anyone else looking to do it. No, it is not hard, YES it is boring and long and YOU HAVE TO REMAIN FOCUSED. Once I got into the swing of things I put the new mummy movie on as it is perfect for this task and terrible.
These are the items I used.
These videos were very helpful. Video1 Video2 Video3 Video4 watch them, then watch them each 5 more times
I got all my engine parts out and on a table so I can start putting things together. Last night I started doing ring gaps with the filer. @alexwlwsn was a good buddy pal and answered a few questions. I will break it down for anyone else looking to do it. No, it is not hard, YES it is boring and long and YOU HAVE TO REMAIN FOCUSED. Once I got into the swing of things I put the new mummy movie on as it is perfect for this task and terrible.
These are the items I used.
- WD-40 - Cleaning Cylinder Walls and Bearing Crank Journals
- Naptha - Cleaning Bearings, Rings and Various Other Parts
- SuperTech 5w30 - Oiling Rings and Pistons and various other bits
- Proform 66785 Piston Ring Filer Manual
- Lisle 33500 Piston Ring Installer
- Feeler Gauges
- ProForm 67652 Piston Ring Squaring Tool - This is not "necessary" but it works really well and is one less thing to mess with
- Scott Pro Grade Rags In A Box
These videos were very helpful. Video1 Video2 Video3 Video4 watch them, then watch them each 5 more times
- Lay out all your rings and label them per cylinder. Keep track of this. READ THE SHEET that came with your pistons. My pistons were balanced to the rotating assembly so they were all numbered. #1 hole is closest to the timing side. Make sure to file the rings and keep track of what hole they go in. KNOW YOUR HOLES and KEEP SHIT CLEAN YO
- Now clean the cylinder walls real good with wd40 until rags stay white then lube with oil.
- Start with cylinder 1, grab your silver top ring and put it into the cylinder writing side up. Check the gap , it will be tight and not at spec. Your spec depends on your goals. I went .020 Top Ring and .024 Bottom Ring. This will be good for 30+ psi and others have run it with good results. Too big of a gap and you eat oil. Too tight and you can bind the rings and have a real bad time.
- Now start grinding, I ground one side as a few videos said that was fine but if you want to take a little off both go ahead. I did it as one side is factory straight and I could compare easily. When using the grinder face the ring up the same as it would be on the piston. Grind forward "clockwise if you are facing the grinder in this pic" Watch the videos on good techniques and shiz it takes a bit to get comfy. Count your turns , grind 5 , check in cylinder, grind more check etc etc until you are at your spec.
- Once your top ring is at spec now do the 2nd compression black ring to spec and set aside, keep track of what cylinder they go in as you have now sized them to that specific cylinder. Pay attention and keep them in the proper position when grinding and checking. Take your time as you can always grind a little more but can not add material.
- Put a shitty movie on and do this for all of your top and 2nd rings, you do not need to do this for the bottom 3 oil rings. Only grind the Top and 2nd ring to spec. This took me about 2 hours going nice and slow and triple checking things. YOU DO NOT WANT TO FUCK THIS UP
- You will need to debur the rings a bit, if you do no debur them they will catch and not slide around the piston smoothly. When you go to put them on the piston you will want to slide them in and out and around a few times "giggity" to make sure they are not catching and it is free to move. DO NOT go wild with the filing you want to take off just enough to clean up burs so that it can move freely.
- Top Compression Ring is the silver ring, writing on the ring goes toward top of piston, 2nd Compression Ring is the Black Ring and there is a dot on it, that dot goes to the top of the piston. Other 3 rings go on the bottom as you can see in the pic and videos. Lube these bad boys up before install. I used a small pick to move the rings to their proper position.
- Double check that the rings are all in the right position. Next we will install them in the block. This is also tedious , listen to some turbo sounds on youtube to get your mojo back.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Forgot to add this to the previous post but this will help break it up.
I got the valve cover and timing cover back from powder. I went with PMB5027 Kingsport Grey as they had it in stock so it was cheaper and it gives a clean look. Not really going for flash just didn't like how gross it was before. 150$ for both parts wasn't too bad. I had them blast the knuckles too as they were super gross and I wanted to por15 the. That was an extra 55$.
I followed the steps to prep the knuckles and then I did por15 on them. Process was a little tedious but this stuff is rock solid.
I wire wheeled this part with my dremel so I could get the sensor in the right spot.
I bought new goodies so that I could replace the broke gross shit that was in the knuckles before.
Timken RET166 Wheel Bearing Retaining Clip
Timken WB000028 Wheel Bearing
SKP SK930003 Wheel Hub
There is already a good write up on doing this and I did watch a few videos online to help. Main thing is to get the magnet side on the bearing bu where the sensor will go. It makes more sense when you are looking at it.
Lube the hole
Press in new bearing, get creative this thing sucks to move around I have a fwd bearing kit that had some nice spacers to use.
Oring in place
Now press the hub in while supporting the center of the other bearing as you don't want to mess up the bearing that is already in there and VIOLA!
I DID HOWEVER have a shit my pants moment when I realized that the tabs for the brakes to attach to were bent from when I originally pressed out the bearing months ago. I thought I was going to have to get a new knuckle after all this time and work but @CMajor said he had the same issue and took a small sledge hammer and was able to tap them back into place. I tried this and after 4 solid hits they were right back where they needed to be. The por15 also stayed on which was impressive.
Before
After
I also got all my parts placed on the table for the build to begin.
Forgot to add this to the previous post but this will help break it up.
I got the valve cover and timing cover back from powder. I went with PMB5027 Kingsport Grey as they had it in stock so it was cheaper and it gives a clean look. Not really going for flash just didn't like how gross it was before. 150$ for both parts wasn't too bad. I had them blast the knuckles too as they were super gross and I wanted to por15 the. That was an extra 55$.
I followed the steps to prep the knuckles and then I did por15 on them. Process was a little tedious but this stuff is rock solid.
I wire wheeled this part with my dremel so I could get the sensor in the right spot.
I bought new goodies so that I could replace the broke gross shit that was in the knuckles before.
Timken RET166 Wheel Bearing Retaining Clip
Timken WB000028 Wheel Bearing
SKP SK930003 Wheel Hub
There is already a good write up on doing this and I did watch a few videos online to help. Main thing is to get the magnet side on the bearing bu where the sensor will go. It makes more sense when you are looking at it.
Lube the hole
Press in new bearing, get creative this thing sucks to move around I have a fwd bearing kit that had some nice spacers to use.
Oring in place
Now press the hub in while supporting the center of the other bearing as you don't want to mess up the bearing that is already in there and VIOLA!
I DID HOWEVER have a shit my pants moment when I realized that the tabs for the brakes to attach to were bent from when I originally pressed out the bearing months ago. I thought I was going to have to get a new knuckle after all this time and work but @CMajor said he had the same issue and took a small sledge hammer and was able to tap them back into place. I tried this and after 4 solid hits they were right back where they needed to be. The por15 also stayed on which was impressive.
Before
After
I also got all my parts placed on the table for the build to begin.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Pistons going in.
I am falling behind on my posting because I have been very busy. Wife was out of the country for two weeks and I am trying to keep my children alive, they are 3 and 4. It has been a challenge. I got the pistons installed the night after I did the filing and here is how I did it. I had the machine shop connect the pistons to the rods as I hear that is a nightmare and it cost 40$.
Once again I watched this video which was a big help.
Video 1 - Assembling pistons and rods for a Mazdaspeed
Video 2 - Installing pistons and rods into a Mazdaspeed Block
Video 3 - Installing the Cylinder Head on a Mazdaspeed Block
I do not have as many picture as before as I just kept working and forgot about it but there is no much to see and the videos explain a lot.
Bonus Material:
Oil Feed for the turbski on block - blue fitting - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 670440
Oil Feed for PTE Turbo on Turbo - Summit Racing® AN to NPT Adapter Fittings SUM-220446B
Oil Feed Line - Route behind heat shield 90 goes on turbo - Allstar Performance Braided Steel Brake Lines ALL46402-36
I was also told that I should use a crush washer for this instead of ptfe dope. I happened to have one laying around that fit perfect but if you need one just go to amazon or a parts store. Should be neat the oil drain plugs and is 12mm.
If you are still here, which I am not sure why you are still here. Something you may have noticed. This shit takes a while. It is a lot of repetitive stuff that is not crazy hard but you HAVE TO pay attention and double check everything. That is all, thanks for reading. Call your mom.
Pistons going in.
I am falling behind on my posting because I have been very busy. Wife was out of the country for two weeks and I am trying to keep my children alive, they are 3 and 4. It has been a challenge. I got the pistons installed the night after I did the filing and here is how I did it. I had the machine shop connect the pistons to the rods as I hear that is a nightmare and it cost 40$.
Once again I watched this video which was a big help.
Video 1 - Assembling pistons and rods for a Mazdaspeed
Video 2 - Installing pistons and rods into a Mazdaspeed Block
Video 3 - Installing the Cylinder Head on a Mazdaspeed Block
I do not have as many picture as before as I just kept working and forgot about it but there is no much to see and the videos explain a lot.
- Check that each pistons rings and in alignment and right side up before you start putting them in the cylinder.
- Clean each cylinder with wd40 or ATF really well until the rag no longer changes color. I liked WD as it also keeps it from rusting. Then lightly oil it with some fresh 5w30 or similar. Clean them until the rag no longer turns colors and stays white.
- Clean the crank and moderately lube with assembly lube. You will go through A TON of gloves and shop towels just keep grabbing fresh ones. Clean motor is happy motor.
- Now clean all the bearings I did each set before I put them on the rods , follow the video for that. I used naptha for that. You want the back of the bearings to be dry and lube free plus super clean. You can add assembly lube once they are in their homes. Keep your gloves clean and be clean!
- Now that you have the bearings on the rod and that looks all good you can pop the pistons into the block.
- I did one at a time for the process vs doing batch of cleaning all and lubing all , do whatever works for you.
- Don't forget to oil the rings and the cylinder walls.
- I used the 88mm Wiesco compressor after reading stories of people killing themselves and their families trying to use the old school ones.
- Double check that your rings are aligned per the previous post and the spec sheet.
- Spin the crank so that it is at the bottom of the stroke so you don't nick it when putting the piston in.
- Check the above pic for alignment. Intake side has the deep dish and the arrow points towards the timing side of the motor. make sure you match your pistons to where they shop marked them if you paid for a rotating assembly balance. If not , google it and weigh shit and figure it out yo. I can't tell you how to do it all.
- Now you slide the rod in there , get it aligned and give it a quick tap with a rubber hammer handle. Might take a few tries but don't get frustrated and don't beat the shit out of it. Should just take 1 or 2 solid taps. If if feels wrong pull out bro and try again.
- Once it is in the cylinder about 1" you can push it the rest of the way by hand to get it to seat on the crank.
- You can do 2 pistons at a time as two will be up and two will be down "watch the video"
- Now he is in his new home forever and ever.
- Get your rod bolts out and hand tighten then two you just did then repeat the process for the next two.
- Now follow the tq sequence on the spec sheet. I used ARP lube and not 5w30 on accident. I asked a few builders and they say it was all good and not to worry about it. Pretty sure the manley lube that some kits come with is just ARP anyways.
- Double check that all parts are nice and lubed then turn it over a few times to make sure it sounds smooth unlike @KiwiFlavor j/k you #1
- You now have a short block and so do I , USA USA USA
Bonus Material:
Oil Feed for the turbski on block - blue fitting - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 670440
Oil Feed for PTE Turbo on Turbo - Summit Racing® AN to NPT Adapter Fittings SUM-220446B
Oil Feed Line - Route behind heat shield 90 goes on turbo - Allstar Performance Braided Steel Brake Lines ALL46402-36
I was also told that I should use a crush washer for this instead of ptfe dope. I happened to have one laying around that fit perfect but if you need one just go to amazon or a parts store. Should be neat the oil drain plugs and is 12mm.
If you are still here, which I am not sure why you are still here. Something you may have noticed. This shit takes a while. It is a lot of repetitive stuff that is not crazy hard but you HAVE TO pay attention and double check everything. That is all, thanks for reading. Call your mom.
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I heard @KiwiFlavor has a lubed rod for your block gnome sayin'
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