JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"

[JohnnyTightlips]

Tiny Update:

As many of you know I love ebay parts and am willing to try them out. Well I have been running the eBay HKS SSQV for a while now and it seemed to work well. The only issue I was having was part throttle boost. If I would get into boost a little and let off a bit "such as merging onto the highway" it would flutter and open and the car would not like it. It was not smooth at all and annoying to drive around. This made me sad as I LOVED the bird call noises it makes otherwise. I talked to @alexwlwsn about it as he had previously had a real HKS valve and it did the same thing. It must just be the design of the valve. SO like many before me I decided to get a tried and true tial 50mm. WELL.... the ebay version.

Before I bought the valve I checked my idle vac. It was between 21 and 23 so I ordered a -12 Psi spring "yellow" from ebay and I ordered an adapter. I could have probably gone with brown as well but the rating is the same.

I went with this vendor as the this was the newest knock off version and based on the Q series valve. I ordered a red one but they were out so purple it is.




I took it apart and it was already lubed with silicone but I still cleaned it all up as it had some shavings and stuff that was not cleaned. I then re-lubed it and put the new spring in.

It fits but my FPR was in the way as it is YUGE. I will need to re-think the placement of that. Not a huge deal right now as I am not running PI but that will be soon so I need to thing about that. For now I just hooked up the silicone line but I will be running a bigger line to the BOV as I have read it is important to use a larger line for the TIAL.

SO... the difference is night and day. The car idles smoother and pulls smoother. It does not have any hesitation or strange feelings at half throttle. I can barely hear the BOV on low boost which is sad but makes sense as it is a YUGE diaphragm. I am happy with the switch and feel like the spring I picked is the right one. I will update it more when have put some miles on it. The quality of the ebay valve seems to be solid as far as function goes but it is def not as nice as a genuine one in terms of feel and looks. The edges are rough and sharp and the coating already had a few scratches in it.

 

[_Mazdarati]

I'm going to be getting a Tial one so I can be boujee af and get some scene points. I will be welding the vband farther down the cold pipe, so I can then block the OEM BPV flange off. Will free up some space and give a cleaner look IMO.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I'm going to be getting a Tial one so I can be boujee af and get some scene points. I will be welding the vband farther down the cold pipe, so I can then block the OEM BPV flange off. Will free up some space and give a cleaner look IMO.

Yeah I plan to move it eventually but where it is now works so that is what I am doing. I have an under route pipe ready to go I just need time to mess with all that and it is hard to want to mess with it while the car is working well.

 

[aaronc7]

If you want space, get the Turbosmart raceport, it's 50mm but way more compact. That's what I run. It's also not very loud, but louder than the tial by a smidge apparently.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

Wife was out of town this weekend with the kids so I spent A LOT of time in the garage. First of all FUCK silicone intakes 6an line. I don't know if it's a manufacturing defect or what but the sleeve is fully bonded to the stainless and takes forever to clean off. The 8an lines it just peeled right off, wtf. end rant

@Maisonvi and his YUGE DIQ hooked me up with a baller fuel setup. I sent him the hell cat pump and other goodies and he did the rest.
WALBRO HELLCAT 525LPH F90000285 FUEL PUMP (UNIVERSAL E85) ULTRA HIGH-PERF

This is how he sent it but we decided to modify it a little more so that the pump basket could still move.


I ordered new lines to replace the solid line connecting the pump to the AN fitting.
HFP-FH99-300 [QTY 2] 9mm x 9mm x 300mm Corrugated Fuel Resistant Flexible Hose Line for Fuel Pump Assembly - E85 Compatible
These ended up being a little long but they work fine and have the desired affect of letting the basket still have movement while keeping the pump and filter at he bottom the the basket.
You have to warm them in boiling water for 3+ min to get the flexible enough to slide onto the pump.


All done


Install time
I bought some metal shears to do the job and for the most part they did fine but they broke after doing the bulk of the work so I will be returning them. I finished up with an air saw and was extra careful not to hit or cut anything important.



I had a tool to remove the fuel basket ring but it was just breaking the tabs. I ended up using a flat head and hammer to break it loose I then used the too to finish it up and then tighten down the new pump.
If I was to do this again I would get a lower profile bend but I was able to make it work and get the seat back on. 8an feed is overkill for sure but why not.


Now that the pump is installed I started doing all the lines. This is where all the head scratching begins.
I pretty much tried to run the 8an feed following the stock line. I was not able to do it exactly but it is in a way that I am not worried about heat and rubbing.

Once I got it planned out and figured out spacing I actually ended up keeping it behind the batter area as there is room there and I can see leaks pretty easy.


Getting pretty busy but it all laid out fairly nice, this like is not very flexible so I had to get creative.


After plumbing the rest of the lines and triple checking all connections I fired it up. AND my battery was dead. I must have left a light on the day before when I was messing with it. After a quick jump from my jumper I was able to get the car running. I adjusted the fuel pressure to 55psi with a vac line on it. This seems like a good place to be from what I have read and from what others are doing with a similar setup. My FPR is rising rate with boost so if anything I might need to drop it down a little.

SUCCESS!!!! SO VERY HAPPY

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

WHOOPS, accidentally posted and was not done, so Part 2 of update.

Now that the fuel system is working I did some pulls and it all looks GREAT. Car feels better then ever. I have a feeling my 155k tired old pump and filter was not doing the best for my car. I did not do any official logs just had the tq app up and watched it.


It crept to 21lbs but AFR was solid and g/s started to boogy.

So , now it is time to wire in the SS controller. As is tradition I don't generally half ass wiring. My maf wires were already kind stretched so I decided to lengthen them and tap it for maf signal, +12v and ground.

Wired into the car all nice and pretty. This takes care of 3 of the SS wires, Maf signal , Power 12v+ and Ground

I then had 4 wires left that get the signals from the coil plugs. I had previously made my own wire tuck harness and had 4 pins ready on a plug that also has the wotbox pins. I made added the SS controllers 4 wires to it and BOOM connected.

I decided to also test my injectors to make sure they were spraying. I had a tool I bought to clean them and it made it easy to test them. beler Car Vehicle Fuel Injector Nozzle Flush Cleaner Adapter Tool DIY Kit Set All I had to do was plug it into one and tap the positive terminal suepr quick, car would bog and then I knew the injector was working. I did it for all 4. This worked great and re-assured me that the injectors have fuel and will fire.



I then ran the lines for the injectors and mounted the SS controller. It is all ready to go now as soon as I want to start tuning and it warms up a bit. I need some new front tires as well.

 

[Sho]

Time to turn it up to 35!

 

[Maisonvi]

Im pretty happy with out the fuel pump set up turned out. Big fan of the fact that we ended up going with a way for it to move with the basket and hopefully alleviate starvation issues. Thanks for the development work help. Now send me your old basket so I can make some more. Haha.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Tiny update:

My car was making some strange noises at idle. Didn't quite figure out what it was. It sounded kinda like a rattling, at first I thought it was the throw out bearing but it did not change with clutch pedal. It was only at idle any blip of the throttle and it was gone. It turned out to be the hellcat fuel pump. My pressure with vac line was set to 60psi and this must be too high as the pump did not like it. @Sho recommend I set it to 43psi and I did. This immediately fixed the noise and everything seems good.

Now as far as the tune goes I'm not really in a giant hurry to mess up the car while we are still under self quarantine at home. If love to get it going but family and work is a priority and it would be wise to keep some cash in my pocket and a working car for the time being.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

First PI test was a big ole fail. I got the car into boost and just as PI kicked in the car bogged HARD and afr went to 8. I parked it and could not get it started again. It smelled like gas very strong.



Had my wife come and get me and then I came back with the van and some tools.

I took the plugs out and two of the four were cracked "cyl 2 and 3". I am not sure if these are knockoffs or just lately been garbage but I have been having an issue with the ceramics cracking on the last two sets.


Cylinder 2 was swimming in fuel. I suspected that the PI injector got stuck open. I thought this was odd as I bench tested it and had not had issues and also tested with the PI controller and it seemed fine. I help the clutch and gas down and let the car cycle to clear out the Gas. It would not clear out, so that pretty much told me that cyl 2 Port Injector was open and whenever the fuel pump turned on it just filled the cylinder.



I would like to say this was on my mind when I built this but it was not. I was able to move the PI feed line to the FPR and bypass the PI rail. This meant no more fuel for that open injector and back to DI only.
Once the rail no longer got fuel to it I was able to clear the gas out of cyl 2. I was then able to put it back together and get it started.

It did not want to idle but I was able to drive it home and afr's started to look normal. It did idle when I got to my house 10 min away. I did test getting into boost and it is now stumbling as soon as boost kicks in. I believe it was some sort of spark cut out. I don't think the two cracked plugs were helping and I realized later that with the rail open the stuck injector was a pretty decent vac leak so I am sure that was not helping.

The next day I was able pull the rail and test all the injectors. I had a kit from amazon and some cans to use so I could see what was going on. Well... Cyl 2 I could blow through the injector so yeah it was a fire hydrant of fuel. I still decided to check the flow and when I hooked it to the battery it clicked like it was working. Well it did flow for a second then got stuck closed. Now the click is very faint like it is not actually opening but trying when I give it power. The other injectors have a defined click and seem to flow fine. The plan now is to get the car back to running well on DI then get some new injectors and try again.

 

[aaronc7]

F

and last 2 pics are not loading

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Did you buy those spark plugs and injectors on eBay as well?

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Did you buy those spark plugs and injectors on eBay as well?

Pics fixed

Injectors were eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-210lb-2...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@Sho has had good luck with them and multiple other people so I went with them. Guess I was not as lucky.
I am looking at a similar set from another company but they label them as new and actually flow test them all before sending them. They said they would setup an auction for a set of 4 for $200. OTHER SET
The spark plugs were from amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B00ITXAREY
I ordered a set from rock auto so hopefully those are better. These last plugs had like 4k miles. I will be changing my oil too as I am sure it is full of fuel.

 

[aaronc7]

I'm paranoid about fake spark plugs, I've been getting mine from rock auto.

 

[anthony]

Had a friend try those 2200s last week they were leaking also didn't turn on the PI yet either

 

[Easter Bunny]

you are going to want to change that oil pretty soon if you had that much gas being dumped

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

you are going to want to change that oil pretty soon if you had that much gas being dumped

I plan on changing before I drive again.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Had a friend try those 2200s last week they were leaking also didn't turn on the PI yet either

Yeah they worked in ghetto bench testing but then not on the road so that kinda sucked. I'm feeling better about the next set as they thoroughly test them before sending them.

 

[Easter Bunny]

How much cheaper are spark plugs that you guys are buying them on eBay?

 

[Enki]

A better question is why would you cheap out on something so important? Y'all gettin your tires, brakes, and airbags off ebay too?