JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"

[alexwlwsn]

Tiny Update:

I have heard from multiple people that the timing wheel is pressed onto the crank pulley and it can slip out of time. I believe this was my issue earlier. Sounds like the only way to fix it is to take it off the car and put it back into time, then get it tack welded so it does not move again. I am not sure when I will be doing this but I would rather it not move anymore and me not be aware of it. Sounds like it might be a winter project. I will post a thread on it if/when I go about fixing it.

At Hail Mary Derby, Justin's welded timing wheel came loose and undid his timing and it had quite a few MIG beads all around. So see if you can get it TIG'd by someone! I believe they often adjust themselves when you're revvving higher than stock redline.

 

[drew10101010]

Tiny Update:

I have heard from multiple people that the timing wheel is pressed onto the crank pulley and it can slip out of time. I believe this was my issue earlier. Sounds like the only way to fix it is to take it off the car and put it back into time, then get it tack welded so it does not move again. I am not sure when I will be doing this but I would rather it not move anymore and me not be aware of it. Sounds like it might be a winter project. I will post a thread on it if/when I go about fixing it.

Your crank gears slipped??

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Your crank gears slipped??

The timing wheel on the crank pulley must have slipped at some point as my timing was off. I was way down on power and could never figure it out and that seemed to be why. Running 6 degrees less timing in all cells.... "each tooth is 3 degrees I believe" I documented it here earlier in the build but I did not know it was such a common issue I thought it was only for dudes running wild 800+ hp builds but I guess not.



This is the timing wheel and it is pressed to the rest of the pulley.

 

[drew10101010]

Damn. So I guess it is true that keying is necessary for 500whp+. I just might key mine at SP63. Would only cost about 250. But wait, Overspeed's stage 1 is rated at 600hp and is not keyed. SP63 700hp rated stage 2 is keyed.
What did you torque your ARP crank bolt to? 140? I wonder if you can torque it higher. I heard somewhere in other applications ppl were torqueing non keyed cranks very high like over 200-250 ft-lb.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Damn. So I guess it is true that keying is necessary for 500whp+. I just might key mine at SP63. Would only cost about 250. But wait, Overspeed's stage 1 is rated at 600hp and is not keyed. SP63 700hp rated stage 2 is keyed.
What did you torque your ARP crank bolt to? 140? I wonder if you can torque it higher. I heard somewhere in other applications ppl were torqueing non keyed cranks very high like over 200-250 ft-lb.

I think the actual pulley messed up not that the friction washer failed. JT is your motor keyed I can't remember?.. Nonetheless this could happen even with a keyed motor since the pulley could still technically have spun and thrown the timing off right?

 

[Easter Bunny]

I dont see how the gear could slip on the pulley, there is nothing restricting it from spinning. I would bet that the whole crank pulley spun

 

[Eroler1]

Just to clarifiy, the timing wheel "teeth plate" is snapped on to the pulley, you can take a flat head screw driver and pry it off, it is not glued or welded in place, rather pushed on, you can remove and move it manually but if its installed youll have to remove the pulley which means chaing the washers for the non keyed guy, spinning above 7500 RPM and BSD is enough to make it "lose"
why do I know? my pulley this past week end is 4 teeth away when installed it, got frustrated and pry the plate off the pulley to my surprise it just popped off then installed it with rubber mallet.

 

[Eroler1]

Damn. So I guess it is true that keying is necessary for 500whp+. I just might key mine at SP63. Would only cost about 250. But wait, Overspeed's stage 1 is rated at 600hp and is not keyed. SP63 700hp rated stage 2 is keyed.
What did you torque your ARP crank bolt to? 140? I wonder if you can torque it higher. I heard somewhere in other applications ppl were torqueing non keyed cranks very high like over 200-250 ft-lb.

Factory spec for original crank bolt wheter youre keyed or not if its factory bolt you are using its 76 ft/lbs + 93 degrees= around 280ish when my TQ wrench beep at me by the ed of 93 degree

 

[drew10101010]

Holy hell 280lb ft? Then the ARP spec of 140 would be way too low. Most harmonic balancers are two piece with rubber in between. But looks like ours is a 3 piece?? Can you show a pic of your separated teeth? JT is not keyed.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Shit I stand corrected. Shocking that it's not attached better.

If its thin enough it might actually be expanding a touch at high rpms regardless of power.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I'll take pics when I get into mine but it won't be any time soon. I have a bunch of other projects going on. It will be nice to have the timing for sure correct. To be clear this is not the physical timing of the internals so if the teeth move it didn't change anything inside the motor is just changes where the ecu thinks the motor is for timing "crank position". With the teeth moving it's not going to cause valves to hit pistons or anything like that.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Your ignition timing slipped not your cam timing

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Small Update:

Car ran pretty much solid all winter without any real issues. I do still have a clunk in the passenger side which I am pretty sure is either the lower control arm or sway bar "it was inner and outer tie rod" but I don't know if I care enough at this point to try and address it for the 100th time. I already tried to figure it out and have failed multiple times. I need to deal with rust on the car as it is getting worse at a rapid pace.

This last weekend I took out all my plugs and installed the AP Basic Valve Cover kit. had the Racethetix version which pretty much turned to trash and leaked after a year. The rubber in it was hardened and stuck to the valve cover.

I went with the red kit because it looked good. Install was a nightmare. I needed a new valve cover gasket and they only one sold locally is felpro. I figured it would work fine and normally it would for the OEM kit but for this it was a giant pain. It took me about an hour to get he spacers in place and the valve cover gasket in place. This is due to the felpro gasket being thicker in the bolt areas so I had to get creative in fitting the spacer in there and fitting the gasket into its channels. I really hope it does not leak. If you decide to get this kit just order the Mahle gasket off rock auto as it is just like OEM.


I also spent some time and tried to get my intake in a nicer spot so it was not rubbing my battery. Pretty sure I failed at that as my LTFT is now +20 so I will need to spend some time on that.

I was happy to see that all the plugs looked really good from last summer and they were still in spec for gap so I put them back in.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update

I went to rebuild my PTE turbo and only found sadness. It still ran 1+ years this way and made 600 ish whp so it done good. I believe when my plugs melted due to the the timing wheel getting off and messing up timing it was running HIGH egt's and that caused this issue. Thanks mazda for your lazy engineering and not welding it to the wheel.


And now time for new hotness, the goal is more power under the curve and not too worried about crazy peak power as 600 is too much for the street already. Pulsar GTX3071R




Check my other thread for more details.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...old-install-and-impressions.12662/#post-92188

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I wanna see 500tq and hp across the board from 3500- redline baby!!

 

[Easter Bunny]

To be fair the timing wheel bulshit isn't lazy engineering it's cheap accountants

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

To be fair the timing wheel bulshit isn't lazy engineering it's cheap accountants

Truth

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

After mixing fuels and being over it I decided to go with a fuel cell.
I installed a CS Fuel Cell https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/corksport-fuel-cell-jmf-pi.13218/ and so far I am very happy with it. I put the OEM pump setup back in the tank so I will have a hellcat setup to sell soon. I wired up the hobbs plus an in cabin bypass so I can turn the pump on manually as well. I have just started from scratch with my tune and am working on my mafcal without an PI. Once that is good I will start to get PI going again.

I decided to get a honeycomb for my intake as I have always had trouble getting smooth fueling at idle and low load. This seemed to help a lot and now instead of + or - 8 I generally see swings of + or - 2 "yes with the same mafcal" I also noticed it is a bit more responsive with the pedal and feels smoother. "maybe I am crazy" Either way it was cheap to do.

I did not trim it, just squish the edges a little to get it to fit.


It is about 1 inch off the maf sensor which seems to be where most OEM's put them. Once I had it where I liked it I used some JBWLED to secure it. Make sure you sand and clean spots you want it to stick to so you don't suck it into your turbo.

As you can see I tried to get the jbweld to fill a hole and also stick to the intake. I did it in about 5 spots which should be more than enough. I had tested without any and the honeycomb did not move so this was just a little extra insurance.


I also checked my timing again as I was worried that the wheel might have slipped with some redline tapping. It was still in the same spot as it was before. Instead of taking it all apart and re-positioning it and re-timing the entire motor due to stupid friction washers I decided to JBWeld it as well.
There is a channel which I added jbweld too, I did not go crazy just enough to bond the two parts. I cleaned it really well with degreaser and a wire brush before + compressed air.

I have not noticed and sort of balance issues I tried to use the same amount on all the sections. If I ever have to go back in there I will just replace with a new one and get it welded.

I also changed my spark plugs which looked fine.

I think I have figure out my clunking, when I was down there I checked suspension bits and the driver tie rod end is pretty loose and can be moved by had. I ordered some new bits on rock auto. If this fixes the clunk that would be amazing.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Small Update:

If you are looking for an in basket pressure regulator or a filter here are some links to what I found and work great plus not too spendy.
https://www.highflowfuel.com/quantum-fuel-pump-strainers-qty-3-for-mazda-speed-3-all-2007-2012/
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...n-pressure-regulator/sti0/pr344?q=PR344&pos=0


When you put the pump back in you want to lube the o-rings and use both of them on top of the pump. It will be hard to get it back in the basket I ended up using a clamp to help.




I am pretty sure this is the genuine part. PR344 was the correct pressure I needed. A TON of other cars use our same basket design.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...n-pressure-regulator/sti0/pr344?q=PR344&pos=0




https://www.highflowfuel.com/quantum-fuel-pump-strainers-qty-3-for-mazda-speed-3-all-2007-2012/

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Updated first post with index.