KW V3 Installed

[Herzloglover]

So I recently just installed my KW v3 coming from BC Racing Coils. It was a complete pain in the neck to install. Installation Instructions lack so much. Nothing online and the guide that came with the Coils, majority was written in German. However, the parts in English was lacking and very generic. Took roughly 10 hours and 5 guys to figure it out by trial and error. LOL

Initial Ride Feel was great! You feel the response of the KW v3s go to work right away. I see why many people love these coils. Ride is crazy smooth. Night and day compared to the BC Coils.

I'll post updates after 1k.

 

[Finch204]

Looking forward to the updates at 1k miles.

 

[Herzloglover]

Update:
note to future buyers. DO NOT BUY COCKSPORT PLATES for the KW Coils... The Pillow Nut provided DOES NOT seat right/ All the way down. I've tried 4 different Pillow Nuts... Same result. Will be attempting something new. Hopefully.

 

[neganox]

@Mauro_Penguin uh ohhhhh

 

[djohns]

I love my v3 coilovers! What are you talking about though with regards to "corksport plates"?

 

[monkey.bones.007]

I love my v3 coilovers! What are you talking about though with regards to "corksport plates"?

Camber plates.

crapatalk it sucks for free

 

[SharksInSpace]

I love my v3 coilovers! What are you talking about though with regards to "corksport plates"?

no, no, he said COCKsport.

 

[monkey.bones.007]

no, no, he said COCKspirt.

View attachment 6481

Fixed.

crapatalk it sucks for free

 

[Herzloglover]

Yes the Cocksport Camber Plates.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Update:
note to future buyers. DO NOT BUY COCKSPORT PLATES for the KW Coils... The Pillow Nut provided DOES NOT seat right/ All the way down. I've tried 4 different Pillow Nuts... Same result. Will be attempting something new. Hopefully.

The pillow nuts need to have the top half bored out so you can get a decent socket in there.

Also, you do not need the top purple Teflon thrust washer. The plastic bearing KW supplies sits better on the plates without it, and also gives you a little more thread engagement on the pillow nut.

They fit. Many have done it. @neganox helped me install mine this weekend. If you have any questions or want pictures let me know.

I will post up a thread on Adjusting the V3's soon.

 

[Herzloglover]

Please do! Pics is great help!

 

[djohns]

Why not just use the stockers over CS? That's what I did.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

Why not just use the stockers over CS? That's what I did.

OEM top hats are fine for some folks. I can't speak for everyone, but in my case I wanted to raise the front end a bit to get more clearance. Raising it killed my camber settings, too positive, hence camber plates to allow for proper Negative Nancy settings.

 

[EvilMS3]

Bumping this thread. I've got a set of KW V3's sitting in my garage and plan on using CS camber plates. Can ya'll post pics of how they should be put together correctly?

Also, I want to keep my stock suspension intact (meaning I don't want to take it apart). Any clue which part I need to order form mazda? Is it just the bushing?

 

[djohns]

Bumping this thread. I've got a set of KW V3's sitting in my garage and plan on using CS camber plates. Can ya'll post pics of how they should be put together correctly?

Also, I want to keep my stock suspension intact (meaning I don't want to take it apart). Any clue which part I need to order form mazda? Is it just the bushing?

You're kinda confusing me with the whole stock suspension part.... you just said you were installing the coilovers correct?

 

[EvilMS3]

You're kinda confusing me with the whole stock suspension part.... you just said you were installing the coilovers correct?

Coilovers and the Corksport Camber plates, and from what I can tell I need to use the stock bushing, right? Or is there more that gets used from the stock parts?
[doublepost=1498593440][/doublepost]From the attached, what are parts 1 & 2? If I don't want to pull my stock stuff apart, can I just order them?

 

[Redline]

If I went OTS, I would've gone KWv3. Instead I went GC with custom spring rates and will have a local pro with an excellent rep in revalving Koni Yellows get me perfectly dialed-in on the damper side of the equation once I get some solid seat time.

We also have a national champion competitive driver here locally. I'm going to see if I can get him to ride along, or especially to drive the Speed himself to offer his legit-racecar driver opinion on how to dial it in for my goals, especially if he'd have me adjust my springrate selection 375F/430R and valving.

 

[Jonb]

If I went OTS, I would've gone KWv3. Instead I went GC with custom spring rates and will have a local pro with an excellent rep in revalving Koni Yellows get me perfectly dialed-in on the damper side of the equation once I get some solid seat time.

We also have a national champion competitive driver here locally. I'm going to see if I can get him to ride along, or especially to drive the Speed himself to offer his legit-racecar driver opinion on how to dial it in for my goals, especially if he'd have me adjust my springrate selection 375F/430R and valving.

The GC's are coilovers sleeves correct? Mind sharing driving impressions?


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[Redline]

The GC's are coilovers sleeves correct? Mind sharing driving impressions?


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Yeah, you can see them here: http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=958
And I chose to not cut off the strut mounting perches on the front, so I can only drop ~1.25" lower than stock up there. But we have so little suspension travel in the first place, I basically have them adjusted to stock ride height. The suspension needs articulation distance to do its job, and since for me performance>>>looks, I made that choice.

I chose 7" springs in the rear because I'm not running tender springs and didn't want a pop-out if I caught air. Realistically, this isn't an issue unless you're literally flying through the air for like 3 or 4 solid seconds, and they have conical spring locators to make sure that the springs stay where they're supposed to (don't unseat/pop-out). I'm at full low on the adjustment and it's just a tad under stock ride height. If I get new rear springs, I may switch to 6" ones and use spring straps, just for added peace of mind.

In terms of handling, I LOVE the combination. Most kits have much stiffer springs in the front than the rear (like the KWs). But when you look at things like wheel motion ratios/etc., you find that ~50-60lbs/in stiffer rear springs are ideal if your goal is a good motion frequency and dialing out understeer. Then you can fine-tune the setup with the setting you use on your RSB. I have a JBR 125 in the middle position and it's fabulous. I can tear up some mountain roads like a beast. My car is like glue to the road with 245 Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

The ride is a little harsh. Running OTS Konis, this was to be expected. Like I said, I'll get seat time and a pro opinion to dial everything in one day, but overall, since performance is my #1 priority, I love the setup. Many folks are running 500/600 or even 600/700, and I can only imagine how harsh that feels. Great feel is ALL about the dampers being well-valved for your application, even if you have very stiff springs, you can have an excellent ride quality - it's all in the dampers. But since I still DD, I stuck with FWIH, the softest GC setup I've ever seen on a forum: 375F/430R.

Sorry for the long post, but I figured you'd appreciate a thorough answer.

 

[Jonb]

Absolutely. Thank you


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