Lets talk Virtual Dyno

StreetSpeed6 said:
Yeeah it’s just a flash tune so I definitely don’t blame it on Jason. He did a great job working with me and helped me with everything I had a question with. My car is still burning a good bit of oil but if I don’t boost much when I drive around and just moderate boost then it doesn’t burn oil really.
I bought a new Greddy Knockoff last night to see if it helps. It looks really nice and came with a new gasket so hopefully I can dial it in quick. It will be here on Friday so ill give an update on that and ill do another boost leak test. I have felt like I heard a very very faint sound in lower rpms that I guess I would call piston or rod noise (if its internal) but it is so hard to hear it enough to tell. Im wondering if my timing chain isn’t another issue.
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You try any upper engine cleaner @HawkeyeGeoff had good success with it, if it is a stuck ring causing oil consumption. My car eats oil too but I am making good power. What is your 40-100 ?

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SharksInSpace said:
I'm in the late stages of a custom pump/ethanol tune with Jason right now and I know that for the 93 iteration, AFR target is 11.1. He told me he targets slightly richer on pump gas for cylinder cooling purposes.
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Daggg; I actually wondered yesterday if it would be possible to just chain a standard mazda-to-greddy adapter to the ic piping and convert it back to take a mazda flanged valve, but I didn't think it'd actually work....wasn't sure the upside-down adapter would properly mate up to the ic flange. That's kinda neat to know.
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Mine was for 93 as well and yeah he targeted 11:1 for me as well. I told him once I get my car figured out ill be back to get another tune from him. And yeah that’s nice to know we can do that!
[doublepost=1532453851][/doublepost]Yeah im pretty sure my car was running almost 12:1 at wot with the Cobb map. What could cause oil burning other than bad rings? I have already changed the pcv, no oil in ic piping going out of turbo, and unless I did it wrong my motor tests don’t seem to show bad results? I think whatever is causing my oil issue is the cause of my power loss.
 
It doesn't look like your turbo is flowing very well after reviewing logs. 100% wgdc for ~16 psi at 5.5-6k seems low. Granted, it's super hot in your logs which could be part of that.

For reference, my car with a stock 1st cat was making ~18 lbs at 75% wgdc at 5.5k. So I have more exhaust restriction, but it's still making more boost at a lesser wgdc.

But even if you added 2 psi in figuring 1 psi = 10 whp (probably optimistic) your hp number is further off than that. Cobb maps make 250+ whp.The reason the cobb map is making more power than jasons is because it has more timing and is leaner. Jason's map may very well target more boost up top, but it isn't happening.

Also, I watched with my eyes that top end cleaner geoff was talking about, AC Delco X66P, raise compression in cyl 3 of Johannas old car and it wasn't a temp fix.
 
mangosmoothie said:
It doesn't look like your turbo is flowing very well after reviewing logs. 100% wgdc for ~16 psi at 5.5-6k seems low. Granted, it's super hot in your logs which could be part of that.

For reference, my car with a stock 1st cat was making ~18 lbs at 75% wgdc at 5.5k. So I have more exhaust restriction, but it's still making more boost at a lesser wgdc.

But even if you added 2 psi in figuring 1 psi = 10 whp (probably optimistic) your hp number is further off than that. Cobb maps make 250+ whp.The reason the cobb map is making more power than jasons is because it has more timing and is leaner. Jason's map may very well target more boost up top, but it isn't happening.

Also, I watched with my eyes that top end cleaner geoff was talking about, AC Delco X66P, raise compression in cyl 3 of Johannas old car and it wasn't a temp fix.
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Yeah I think the only thing left to do is to try out jmiths turbo I got and see if it helps some before my build next year. How do you use that cleaner?
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Yeah I think the only thing left to do is to try out jmiths turbo I got and see if it helps some before my build next year. How do you use that cleaner?
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You take the plugs out and add equal amount to each cylinder, let it soak for a few hours recommend over night, longer is better. Then suck out as much as you can. Take it for a long drive like 45 min and let it rev decently high to get it nice and hot, hoon on it a little here and there letting it warm and cool. Then change the oil and recheck compression if you want to. That is what I did and it did help a little with oil consumption.
 
Thanks for the link Sho. I may try that too if the turbo replacement doesn’t help
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5doorsoffury said:
Im not big into tuning and by NO means any good at it so im not going to step on a tuners toes but fom what i see as a observation from the logs are the dizzy map runs richer and with less timing. This is just a flash tune correct? It dosent flow more the maf cal is just diffrent. There is a big differance in g/s but for the same maf v. The car injects fuel for the extra air that isnt really there and you have negitive trims once the car sees all the extra fuel in the exhaust stream. He is probably targeting richer afrs. That one maf cal log needs more learning time. You are + on the ltft but - across the board in stft.

You can buy a adapter from greddy to mazda flange and so on for bpv. I dont have a mazda flange on my intercooler pipeing i used a adapter flipped upsidown.

My take on this car is you need to get a quality BPV on the car. Do another boost leak test and then get a full etune. I think a lot of overlooked half assing is the culprit here.

If the car has good cylinder comp/leakdown and you are not burning up oil then i would leave the motor be and get a quality tune with meth/e85 for power/protection.
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So I took your advice and ordered a new bov that I will be recirculating not VTA (my current set up is already). It’s a Greddy FV Knockoff rated for around 30psi so it should be all good. About to go install and get it set up so hopefully I don’t have to take the spring out and cut it or anything!image.jpg
 
Wanted to let all who read this know the outcome or answer to what began this thread. Lets just say a piston ring is apparently worth 100hp when fully bolted.
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Honestly can’t believe my car held together all this time and I had no idea it was even broken at first. Car never had a sudden loss of power so I feel strongly that it was sold to me in this condition but just wasn’t burning as much oil yet.
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StreetSpeed6 said:
Wanted to let all who read this know the outcome or answer to what began this thread. Lets just say a piston ring is apparently worth 100hp when fully bolted.
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Honestly can’t believe my car held together all this time and I had no idea it was even broken at first. Car never had a sudden loss of power so I feel strongly that it was sold to me in this condition but just wasn’t burning as much oil yet.
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I just filed my piston rings last night, I think you might be a little aggressive on your ring gaps LMAO
 
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