[SOLVED] More fuel issues!

chris' speed 3

chris' speed 3

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
So I’ll make this short, 2013 speed 3, 144k km. Just got a new ecu for an injector problem now I’m getting 0 fuel pressure

EDIT: for anyone diagnosing fps issues, brown wire is ground, white w/ green stripe is the output signal and yellow is the input signal (5v)

p0089 and p0192

engine starts sometimes then dies minutes or seconds later. Or doesn’t start at all and jsut turns over also tries to start when I have my gas pedal to the floor which is weird

I checked wiring I have 2ohm on 2 wires at the connector to the fp sensor and the peachy wire has closer to 5ohm. There’s a weird blue liquid in the connector I’ll post pics

I hear the ITFP prime and I disconnected the fuel line going into the HPFP and put a water bottle and fuel was in it when I primed so ITFP is good

here are the pics

appreciate the help guys
 

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The wire with 5 ohms. Are you testing that with the key on? Power going to a wire will throw off resistance readings.

Test the wire end to end and do a load test on that wire with a headlamp bulb. If the bulb lights brightly it's good.

Another thing to check is the fuel pressure sensor itself and swap a know good one if possible.

Or it could be you have water/moisture in there as the second picture it looks wet.
 
L337TurboZ said:
The wire with 5 ohms. Are you testing that with the key on? Power going to a wire will throw off resistance readings.

Test the wire end to end and do a load test on that wire with a headlamp bulb. If the bulb lights brightly it's good.

Another thing to check is the fuel pressure sensor itself and swap a know good one if possible.

Or it could be you have water/moisture in there as the second picture it looks wet.
Click to expand...
I tested with no power so no key in ignition, the connector was soaked with something not sure what. I didnt check end to end I had to find which wire it was going into the ECU. Will the headlamp connect directly into the connector for the FP sensor?
Thanks for your help
 
So my mechanic(uncle) that fixed my car came over today with his family and we checked out my car quickly. The fuel pump resistor seems like there’s a problem there when he shakes the connector and moves it around the car acts differently but it still reads 0 psi fp so I’m going to get myself a test light and test all the wiring

is the fuel pump resistor connected to fuel pressure in any way maybe that’s causing the sensor to read 0 psi? It was running and didn’t stall for a couple minutes when he played with the resistor but still 0 psi but it was for sure getting fuel pressure
 
If the resistor was bad, the fuel pump will shut off and the car will as well. The sensor that reads fuel pressure is on the fuel rail itself on the cylinder 1 side. Closest to the power steering pulley
 
Sho said:
If the resistor was bad, the fuel pump will shut off and the car will as well. The sensor that reads fuel pressure is on the fuel rail itself on the cylinder 1 side. Closest to the power steering pulley
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Yeah I know all of that, the engine does shutoff. I think it might be 2 separate problems unless the fuel pump resistor would affect the reading for fuel pressure but I doubt it
 
so i tested my fuel pump resistor with a test light and while cranking had the clamp on a ground and put the test light on each wire and it lit up so Im assuming the resistor isn't the problem. Fuel pressure is still 0 so where would i buy a new sensor, I was reading that its a discontinued part
 
You can disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector, then jump the 5V reference wire to the signal wire and see what the scan tool says. That will tell you if the circuit is ok and if the sensor is at fault
 
L337TurboZ said:
You can disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector, then jump the 5V reference wire to the signal wire and see what the scan tool says. That will tell you if the circuit is ok and if the sensor is at fault
Click to expand...

the signal wire is which one, i tested the circuit from the connector to the ecm connector for 2 of the wires and less then 2 ohms. I will do the last one tmr i needed to find which pin corresponded to it. I also tested from the connector to ground and my test light lit up.
So is the signal wire a wire at the pcm or a wire at the connector next to the reference wire. And to test this i set my multimeter to V and have the key on or no?
Could it also be an issue with the fuel pump resistor?

Im currently charging my battery as well as it was at 11V most likely due to cranking it over without start
 
So I went through a diagnostic procedure for p0192 for speeds and I found that 2 wires are shorted to each other because I get resistance between B and A when they shouldn't be connected anywhere. So I guess this means I need to take out the harness and take a look for corrosion or tears

EDIT: cleaned out the connector with a compressor and MAF cleaner and now there's no short
 
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Im getting p0192 and p0192, fuel pressure is still 0 at all times but it runs, wants to die if I try and spike the throttle. I think I should check the V reference but im not really sure how and could use some help, thanks guys

Edit: Checked the yellow signal wire on KOEO and i had 1.8-1.9 volts, isn't it supposed to be closer to 0.5v?
 
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new fuel pressure sensor solved my 0psi issue, here's the part number i used 0261545038. Now i just have this rattle/whistle when accelerating but at least it drives properly now

EDIT: DONT GET THAT SENSOR
its garbage doesn't read past 1420 psi and caused some whistle noise to happen, i just swapped for an oem used sensor and now all is good
 
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So new issue now, hpfp is making a squeal/ metal on metal noise under load. So cold started the car and went under the hood and it’s coming from the hpfp area. I’ll attach a video.
 

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Here’s a better video away from the bov for you guys, when I was checking w the screw driver it seems way louder when I check at the fprv then at the fuel pump
 

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So I was hoping that id make one last post on this thread saying the issues solved but nope

Heres what i did, took apart the fuel pump internal everything looked good no scratching or scuffing. re lubed everything and put it back in the car with 3 new bolts. I got a known good PRV from chris ward along with the hpfp rebuild kit i bought (didnt end up changing the o rings everything looked good). So I put it all back together today hoping not to hear that stupid noise and its still there. I installed my AP and my tune, HPFP seems wonky, so I didnt see over 1400psi at 11psi pretty much wot but AFR didnt seem to be lean when i was looking at the ap (ill attach logs just need to find a cable). Idle was like 400-415, and decel was 300-320, I used to see 430 at idle and 230 on decel.

At this point Im thinking maybe there's a problem with the spill valve? What do you guys think

EDIT: Just went out to check fuel pressure koeo and im getting 36-39psi...
here are the logs
 

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What oil are you using, what fuel are you using and what did you clean and/or lube the HPFP with?
Were any parts sticky when you had it apart? Did you clean the spill valve, button and all that too?
 
Enki said:
What oil are you using, what fuel are you using and what did you clean and/or lube the HPFP with?
Were any parts sticky when you had it apart? Did you clean the spill valve, button and all that too?
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5w-40 pennzoil euro, 91 octane (never used anything else and there's no E anywhere near me that a PO might have used), non chlorinated break cleaner to clean, oil to lube it, nothing was sticky, and for the spill valve im waiting to get my hands on a 32mm wrench but I plan on doing that this weekend
Im reading some other similar threads and it seems like there's a couple other that have had issues like this after replacing their fuel pressure sensor
 
Unless that 5w-40 is a dexos oil (or similar) I wouldn't use it. Clean the HPFP using naphtha (lighter fluid) and lubricate with Redline Injector Cleaner if you can get it. When you put the pump back together, bolt it back to the car with the spill valve still loose, remove the spill valve and fill the pump with Redline to the bottom thread, then reinstall the spill valve.

If you think that your oil is fine, prove it by getting a UOA at the time of oil change and post it to the thread.
 
Enki said:
Unless that 5w-40 is a dexos oil (or similar) I wouldn't use it. Clean the HPFP using naphtha (lighter fluid) and lubricate with Redline Injector Cleaner if you can get it. When you put the pump back together, bolt it back to the car with the spill valve still loose, remove the spill valve and fill the pump with Redline to the bottom thread, then reinstall the spill valve.

If you think that your oil is fine, prove it by getting a UOA at the time of oil change and post it to the thread.
Click to expand...

Its not dexos oil, as for the pump I just cleaned it and re lubed, what would be the point in doing it again?
 
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