Ms3 slave cylinder over extending

[josh121]

Last week I had my slave cylinder fail on me. The rod overextended, pushed the black plastic ring off of the housing and into the boot, which then filled with fluid and I lost all clutch pedal pressure. The oring/seal on the rod was ripped, so I went ahead and purchased a new one from edge.

Installed that last night, manually bled the slave via the old 2 person method, with them pumping the pedal and holding it to the floor, then myself cracking the bleeder open, closing the valve, then them pulling up on the pedal.

Pedal now has fantastic pressure, however I'm running into an issue. I Can drive around fine, however if I push the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor, you can hear and feel in the pedal, a pop/click, and if I immediately Let off the pedal, get out if the car, and go reach down and grab the boot on the slave, and the ring is slightly popped out. Luckily no fluid escaping.

This leads me to believe that theres a bit too much travel in the pedal or something is off with the clutch fork and allowing the rod in the slave cylinder to over extend.

Any ideas other than fashioning a spacer between the end of the rod on the slave and the fork? Or does it just need to be bled more?

I did notice that I do have about 1.5 inch of loose pedal travel at the top of the pedal if I just lay my foot on the pedal. Got in a friend's gen 1 and his has a tiny dead spot, but maybe only for a half inch at the top of the pedal.

Any ideas are appreciated!

Ring circled in attached pic. The part where it is seperated, is the part that pops out of the slave housing right now. Not the whole thing, just a little portion where the circle is split

Maybe you got a batch of bad ACT pressure plates or something out of spec?

Im surprised OEM slave didn't work for you L337.

hello, so I was having this same issue and I’ve gone through 2 slave cylinders trying to figure it out. I think I have a fix. I know this thread is pretty old, but hopefully this can help somebody.

What I ended up doing was using a bolt to extend the clutch pedal stopper under the master cylinder, inside the footwell.

there’s a bracket that the original rubber stopper is attached to. I took the rubber piece out and I drilled a larger hole in that spot. I then used a nut on each side of the bracket to hold the bolt in place. This should stop the slave cylinder from overextending. However, this prevented the clutch pedal from reaching the ignition switch. so I slid a little rubber cup with a rolled up piece of electric tape inside, over the end of the plunger on the switch, to give it a bit more length. I started the length of the bolt at 1.25” and pushed the pedal till it stopped on the head of the bolt. I tried to start the car and make sure The clutch pedal stopped past the engagement point. every time the car didn’t start I tightened the bolt by the head to shorten it. I continued to do this until the clutch pedal stopped at the right distance. Once I had the bolt in the right spot I tightened the nuts around the bracket again to make sure the bolt wouldn’t come loose. Also this is optional, but just so that there’s not metal on metal contact, I put a felt pad (the kind you put under your table so it doesn’t scratch the floor) on the end of the bolt.

It’s pretty cheap and easy. although I’m sure there may be a less “hacked” way to do it. But it works, for me at least. I hope this helps.

 

[Rageev Maharaj]

Last week I had my slave cylinder fail on me. The rod overextended, pushed the black plastic ring off of the housing and into the boot, which then filled with fluid and I lost all clutch pedal pressure. The oring/seal on the rod was ripped, so I went ahead and purchased a new one from edge.

Installed that last night, manually bled the slave via the old 2 person method, with them pumping the pedal and holding it to the floor, then myself cracking the bleeder open, closing the valve, then them pulling up on the pedal.

Pedal now has fantastic pressure, however I'm running into an issue. I Can drive around fine, however if I push the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor, you can hear and feel in the pedal, a pop/click, and if I immediately Let off the pedal, get out if the car, and go reach down and grab the boot on the slave, and the ring is slightly popped out. Luckily no fluid escaping.

This leads me to believe that theres a bit too much travel in the pedal or something is off with the clutch fork and allowing the rod in the slave cylinder to over extend.

Any ideas other than fashioning a spacer between the end of the rod on the slave and the fork? Or does it just need to be bled more?

I did notice that I do have about 1.5 inch of loose pedal travel at the top of the pedal if I just lay my foot on the pedal. Got in a friend's gen 1 and his has a tiny dead spot, but maybe only for a half inch at the top of the pedal.

Any ideas are appreciated!

Ring circled in attached pic. The part where it is seperated, is the part that pops out of the slave housing right now. Not the whole thing, just a little portion where the circle is split

Good day, what clutch kit setup you are using?

 

[Kain Toaspern]

IIRC, that's for ms6 only. And not possible for ms3. I'll look into it, though

Hello all! kinda beating a dead horse it seems(sorry!)
Anyway just got doing almost a full suspension and upgraded clutch and clutch system rebuild,new oem fork,new oem slave,new TOB,PILOT bearing all that stuff and all greased properly on a 09 speed3..
I had my slave cylinder mounted initially as far away from the fork as it would go until doing another bleed after a long drive I noticed the circle plastic clip on the slave that keeps the rod and seal in was slightly popping out/trying to over extend the slave,I un tightened the slave cylinder bolts and slid it more towards fork as far as possible and now it’s not doing it but has me weary.
My question is would it be okay since this a known thing to create a permanent thin shim on the clutch fork where the slave rod pushes it(will take measurements and make sure the slave rod end still seats nicely and doesn’t slip or have a bad angle). Have seen a slave cylinder relocation bracket online for these but it moves it a whole half inch and I definitely dont need that much..
I still have to press the slave cylinder plunger in all the way that the clutch fork allows it too with the bleeder open as I did not read or learn anything about “bench bleeding” until afterwards of course..
But any help is greatly appreciated and I can also garuntee an update if I do end up needing/doing a fix..no complaints otherwise and I hope everyone and their speeds are doing well!

 

[Zoomin13bt]

Josh121 method seems to be my only fix. Blew out 2 slave cylinders from over extending. My pedal engages first 1/3 of the way down. W the bolt n nut stopper method it will now engage almost halfway of pedal travel. Removing almost a quarter of total pedal travel. To which I assume would be the over extension part. Will update in a few weeks.