My Auction Mazdaspeed

Easter Bunny said:
I would also fix all the things away noted before fooling with a tune or log since they clearly leak
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One of the unlisted issues is that I don't have plates for it currently (waiting on title), so most everything that can be fixed without too much moving will be done first. So I'll be doing all of this, fluids, and plugs before moving it again. Once those are done I can justify the risk to get logs.

Thankfully I live on the edge of town so plenty of backroad access to test on, just no sense pushing my luck until there's a good chance for progress. I do appreciate the insight, though. Thank you all for your help.
 
Awafrican said:
I'd bet you have an air leak time for a boost leak test what's your ltft (long term fuel trim) at idle and cruise ? should be less than +/-7 ideally +/-5

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-build-and-perform-boost-leak-tester.8853/

also looks like your valve cover breather hose onto the intake isn't actually fully connected, circled for youView attachment 30926

also looking at your bov it looks ike that flange onto IC isn't fully aligned I wonder if that's leaking too. no zip tie on the small hose coming off bov another potential leak under boost man that T for the boost gauge is a hodge podge job
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Got a chance to mess with it again briefly tonight.

The breather hose is definitely as seated as it can be. The tube from the intake is seated deeply near the joint on the piece it clips to. It definitely does look weird, though.

The BOV was misaligned, and held on with two different bolts no less. I loosened it a hair and was able to line it up much more cleanly.

I added some coolant and started it up to make sure that was still a thing it did. It did indeed, and ran pretty much as it was. Now that I was able to listen to it run from inside the bay, she sure doesn't sound super healthy. A little ticking noise can be heard from the intake side, and a bit of a rattle from the belt side. Going to do a compression test soon and see how it reads. If it's somehow good, I'll do oil and track down the rattle. If it's not good, I can acquire a JDM engine about an hour from here for $1700 with just under 60k on it. Maybe that's a route to consider before tearing too far into it. As always, I'm open to suggestions and feedback. Hopefully will have more updates soon.
 
Easter Bunny said:
The ticking is normal. It's the direct injection injectors firing

@Raider hates jdm motors
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Oh good. Hopefully the rattle is just something trivial that worked itself loose and we're good.

Why the hate for JDM engines? From what I've seen they are generally better maintained and pretty reasonably priced. Granted, I'm woefully unfamiliar with Mazdas in general, so maybe there's some good reasons to hate there.

Thanks for the heads up on the injector noises. That had me a bit worried there for a sec.

Raider said:
Everyone knows JDM motors are a 75k mile 1 oil change motor in worse shape than whatever it is to replace.
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Ah. I guess I've just seen people get fairly lucky on their JDM pulls. Most notably with Hondas, but Nissans as well.
 
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Was feeling well enough today that I decided to go mess with it a bit.

I cleared the codes and checked some more of the settings in the AP and figured I'd see if it could idle on it's own for a few while I checked to see if I could log with the current tune on. And even though I cannot log without installing the device and getting a new tune, it actually did idle for about 10 minutes without interruption. I killed the AC and stereo and it idled at around 600 or so.

After that I gave it a little gas to see how it handled coming back down, and it did not like that. It didn't die, but it did drop low and struggle each time. No CELs during any of this.

I also checked the intake for cracking or any areas that could be leaking, and I did not find anywhere that looked to be an issue. I'll have to dig more when I have more time, because it's not easily accessible at the very back for a solid inspection.

I wasn't able to isolate where the rattle is coming from on the passenger side of the bay, so that's still a concern.

Need to get under and see if the downpipe has been done as well as check the HPFP upgrade. New plugs should be here today, so we'll see what kind of change that makes soon also.
 
jsmith said:
Rattling from the passenger side might be concerning. Could that be a loose timing chain?
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That was, unfortunately, my concern as well. I'm hoping to get to spend some time this weekend really getting into it, so hopefully we'll know soon.
 
You can check chain stretch at TDC, or pull valve cover and look for metal on metal contact signs on the valve cover.

edit: I think TDC. Probably wrong on that.
 
What condition is the battery in now that you have charged it? The idle dropping after a rev can be a bad battery
 
Easter Bunny said:
What condition is the battery in now that you have charged it? The idle dropping after a rev can be a bad battery
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I'm glad you asked, because I had forgotten to mention I checked it. I tested the battery at 12.34 off and 14.32 at idle. I believe those numbers fall pretty close to correct give or take. Not an electronics expert, though, so I could absolutely be wrong.
 
Mazdspeed jdm motors are usually cx-7 motors without maintenance and have shit compression, timing chains about to yeet themselves, etc. Not worth it.

That said it almost sounds like your speed needs timing and vvt work.
 
Raider said:
Mazdspeed jdm motors are usually cx-7 motors without maintenance and have shit compression, timing chains about to yeet themselves, etc. Not worth it.

That said it almost sounds like your speed needs timing and vvt work.
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Indeed. So it sounds like I'm likely in the same boat either way. So it seems my options may be to pull this and do the work or acquire a second and do the work while I limp this one around. I only have to drive like 50 miles a month, so if this makes it 100 I get 2 months to work on the other engine and my daily lol.
 
Doog said:
Hey I had some similar issues you described (misfire codes, lean at idle, etc) and ended up replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor. Technically, Mazda says to replace the whole rail, but I just replaced the pressure sensor and it's been fine almost 20k miles later. See this thread for the fix and PN.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/solved-p0192-code-and-p0300-misfires.15964/
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Thank you so much for this! I hadn't seen or considered that yet, so I will absolutely give that a shot.
 
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