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Hello Everyone! Newbie member here with a pretty much stock 2008 MS3. Trying to troubleshoot an issue where the car dies after it gets warm and won’t run (I did see a thread on my particular issue). What is the best location to get the Service/shop manual online? I seen a few options for ~$20 for instant download, but I didn’t know how quality it is (didn’t look like factory manual to me). Thank you for your help!!
It's in our Metal Member section
 
Hello Everyone! Newbie member here with a pretty much stock 2008 MS3. Trying to troubleshoot an issue where the car dies after it gets warm and won’t run (I did see a thread on my particular issue). What is the best location to get the Service/shop manual online? I seen a few options for ~$20 for instant download, but I didn’t know how quality it is (didn’t look like factory manual to me). Thank you for your help!!
Shop manual is actually hosted on the forums, you can get access to them by becoming a metal member (donation button $10 gets you access).

Edit: apparently boss man beat me to it.
 
If you become a metal member here you can download the manual
 
There’s no way to donate via the Tapatalk app on iOS, right?


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I thank you sir!
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Has anyone had an issue where ap reads 40 pounds of boost after going to a 3 port boost controller
 
Hello all! Okay I can’t figure out how to post a new thread, maybe because I’m a new member, I dunno. Hopefully someone still monitors this thread lol.
Here is my issue. New to me 2007 Mazdaspeed 3. 128,000 miles. Mods were done by a previous owner. 3.5” down pipe, Cobb intake and TIP, MishiMoto FMIC (not sure of the model), CPE hpfp, and a Cobb V3 AP. The issue is I am getting a p02178 and p02188 code. I’ve gone through and tightened all my connections on the IC piping and Intake. Cleaned my MAF. I’m just running a Stage 2 93 OTS map. My ltft’s are way negative. -20.44 and -18.88. They fluctuate between those two numbers and when I hit the gas it jumps to -0.16 (which I realize it’s in closed loop at that point). My AFR doesn’t go above 14.88 unless I’m coasting in gear but it will dip down into the 8s when I am on the throttle. Also my fuel pressure is great. Stays in the 1600-1800 range when I’m on the gas. No dips. I’ve researched the crap out of this and have come up with a hundred different answers, and no one seems to have my exact problem. I know that my turbo is going out but I’m trying to figure out if I have an additional problem causing the rich codes or if it’s just the turbo. Any help is welcome and appreciated!!
 
Hello all! Okay I can’t figure out how to post a new thread, maybe because I’m a new member, I dunno. Hopefully someone still monitors this thread lol.
Here is my issue. New to me 2007 Mazdaspeed 3. 128,000 miles. Mods were done by a previous owner. 3.5” down pipe, Cobb intake and TIP, MishiMoto FMIC (not sure of the model), CPE hpfp, and a Cobb V3 AP. The issue is I am getting a p02178 and p02188 code. I’ve gone through and tightened all my connections on the IC piping and Intake. Cleaned my MAF. I’m just running a Stage 2 93 OTS map. My ltft’s are way negative. -20.44 and -18.88. They fluctuate between those two numbers and when I hit the gas it jumps to -0.16 (which I realize it’s in closed loop at that point). My AFR doesn’t go above 14.88 unless I’m coasting in gear but it will dip down into the 8s when I am on the throttle. Also my fuel pressure is great. Stays in the 1600-1800 range when I’m on the gas. No dips. I’ve researched the crap out of this and have come up with a hundred different answers, and no one seems to have my exact problem. I know that my turbo is going out but I’m trying to figure out if I have an additional problem causing the rich codes or if it’s just the turbo. Any help is welcome and appreciated!!

The rich code is from being greater than -17% ltft.

If you do a boost leak test and have no leaks, you need a professional tune from one of the trusted Mazdaspeed e-tuners. Those Cobb ots maps are designed to work with strictly all Cobb parts.
 
The rich code is from being greater than -17% ltft.

If you do a boost leak test and have no leaks, you need a professional tune from one of the trusted Mazdaspeed e-tuners. Those Cobb ots maps are designed to work with strictly all Cobb parts.
How exactly do I do a boost leak test?
 
Oops sorry! Thanks! So don’t think it’s the turbo leaking causing the rich codes? Prolly between the turbo and tp?
No worries search function can be iffy I actually use Google to search to site "boost leak site:mazdaspeed.org" will bring up all threads related, swap boost leak with whatever words you're after.

Yes leak is probably between turbo and throttle body* PCV leaking can cause issues to and that's between intake manifold and crank case post TB, intake manifold to head could be leaking but that's highly unlikely if it's never been off.

Chance that there's a leak between maf sensor and turbo as well, I've had two maf sensor o-rngs fail on me...pesky CS intake eating them even when I lube them up.
 
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