[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

Sounds like excessive blow by aka bad ringlands. Did you regulate the pressure at 40ish psi during this test? I think @L337TurboZ said something about that being the correct psi to test at and not 120 lol
 
I was testing at 100 psi but my compressor was set to 120 I read it was supposed to be more then 100 at the compressor, and yes I was at TDC

Anyways this is shitty, would this be the reason my plugs look like they're running cold?

Also how hard is it to install a new engine myself? I can have one built for 3600
 
chris' speed 3 said:
I was testing at 100 psi but my compressor was set to 120 I read it was supposed to be more then 100 at the compressor, and yes I was at TDC

Anyways this is shitty, would this be the reason my plugs look like they're running cold?

Also how hard is it to install a new engine myself? I can have one built for 3600
Click to expand...
Honestly depends what patience you have more than anything but it honestly isn't that bad. For me it personally just takes a while. ZIPLOCK BAGS lol Use them to label bolts and stuff off the motor and put any bolts back into the threads once said part is removed if it is on the frame or whatever.

I have now done it twice successfully to my speed 6 so you can definitely do it with your 3.

Drain EVERYTHING, pull the front clip (radiator etc) off, pull the front tires and then the cv axles out, undo the wiring harness and pull the motor lol Just be careful with the freon for the AC system as it is nasty stuff you don't want spraying in your eyes or something bad like that.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Honestly depends what patience you have more than anything but it honestly isn't that bad. For me it personally just takes a while. ZIPLOCK BAGS lol Use them to label bolts and stuff off the motor and put any bolts back into the threads once said part is removed if it is on the frame or whatever.

I have now done it twice successfully to my speed 6 so you can definitely do it with your 3.

Drain EVERYTHING, pull the front clip (radiator etc) off, pull the front tires and then the cv axles out, undo the wiring harness and pull the motor lol Just be careful with the freon for the AC system as it is nasty stuff you don't want spraying in your eyes or something bad like that.
Click to expand...

Alright thats motivating at least, I just want my car back to hitting boost and being what a speeds supposed to be
 
If you thought it was fast before just wait lol A built motor if done right and all is a blast. Plus pushing boost down lower and running it harder is always more fun when you know it is built to handle it too!
 
chris' speed 3 said:
I was testing at 100 psi but my compressor was set to 120 I read it was supposed to be more then 100 at the compressor, and yes I was at TDC

Anyways this is shitty, would this be the reason my plugs look like they're running cold?

Also how hard is it to install a new engine myself? I can have one built for 3600
Click to expand...

The question is what you're saying by "built."

If you're talking about a fully built engine that can handle anything it should include

Forged rods/pistons with pistons being coated.

Crankshaft balanced, lightened, or replaced with a lighter unit such as Focus ST crank

Upgraded bearings

Balance shafts eliminated (this can vary engine to engine but you get increased oil capacity without them)

Oil pan baffles to keep oil in the pan and reduce splashing/windage

ARP hardware (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs)

Upgraded valve springs (preferably dual valve springs)

Upgraded valve guides to dissipate heat better

Upgraded valves and valve seats(larger diameter, better materials)

Performance camshafts (this is kind of optional but a lot of power is on the table by upgrading them)

Porting and head work (there is always room for improvement on cylinder heads as casting leaves marks, imperfections that mess up flow. Combustion bowls can be worked to allow more flow past valves)

Take all these into consideration. If I was in your position I would find a cheap 2.5L engine and swap that in. The small bump in displacement will give you some extra power/torque and they're fairly cheap. Most of your stuff will bolt up with only a few mods needed to make the turbo work.

Then take your stock engine and tear it down to inspect for the rebuild/build. If it hasn't thrown a rod through the block or scored the cylinder walls that bad it's probably salvageable. If the cylinder head is what's messed up you'll need to fix that before doing a 2.5 swap as you'll have to use the 2.3 head on a 2.5 bottom end.

An easy way to check if all the valves are sealing properly is to remove the head, then remove the camshafts so all the valves are closed. Flip the head upside down and fill the combustion bowls with transmission fluid. Let it sit for a while and come back to check. If the fluid doesn't leak out into the ports your valves are probably sealing just fine.

It wouldn't be a bad idea though to get a valve spring compressor tool and remove each valve to re-lap them with compound. It cleans up the seats and ensured a proper seal. You'd also have the opportunity to replace valve stem seals at the same time during that process.
 
L337TurboZ said:
The question is what you're saying by "built."

If you're talking about a fully built engine that can handle anything it should include

Forged rods/pistons with pistons being coated.

Crankshaft balanced, lightened, or replaced with a lighter unit such as Focus ST crank

Upgraded bearings

Balance shafts eliminated (this can vary engine to engine but you get increased oil capacity without them)

Oil pan baffles to keep oil in the pan and reduce splashing/windage

ARP hardware (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs)

Upgraded valve springs (preferably dual valve springs)

Upgraded valve guides to dissipate heat better

Upgraded valves and valve seats(larger diameter, better materials)

Performance camshafts (this is kind of optional but a lot of power is on the table by upgrading them)

Porting and head work (there is always room for improvement on cylinder heads as casting leaves marks, imperfections that mess up flow. Combustion bowls can be worked to allow more flow past valves)

Take all these into consideration. If I was in your position I would find a cheap 2.5L engine and swap that in. The small bump in displacement will give you some extra power/torque and they're fairly cheap. Most of your stuff will bolt up with only a few mods needed to make the turbo work.

Then take your stock engine and tear it down to inspect for the rebuild/build. If it hasn't thrown a rod through the block or scored the cylinder walls that bad it's probably salvageable. If the cylinder head is what's messed up you'll need to fix that before doing a 2.5 swap as you'll have to use the 2.3 head on a 2.5 bottom end.

An easy way to check if all the valves are sealing properly is to remove the head, then remove the camshafts so all the valves are closed. Flip the head upside down and fill the combustion bowls with transmission fluid. Let it sit for a while and come back to check. If the fluid doesn't leak out into the ports your valves are probably sealing just fine.

It wouldn't be a bad idea though to get a valve spring compressor tool and remove each valve to re-lap them with compound. It cleans up the seats and ensured a proper seal. You'd also have the opportunity to replace valve stem seals at the same time during that process.
Click to expand...

I think i could of worded that better, I mean I could have my engine rebuilt for me for 3600$, it would be oem spec. He built a spare engine, head included then gives it to me and when im done I give him my old one.
I have read about the 2.5 swap but how long will that last?
 
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Honestly depends what patience you have more than anything but it honestly isn't that bad. For me it personally just takes a while. ZIPLOCK BAGS lol Use them to label bolts and stuff off the motor and put any bolts back into the threads once said part is removed if it is on the frame or whatever.

I have now done it twice successfully to my speed 6 so you can definitely do it with your 3.

Drain EVERYTHING, pull the front clip (radiator etc) off, pull the front tires and then the cv axles out, undo the wiring harness and pull the motor lol Just be careful with the freon for the AC system as it is nasty stuff you don't want spraying in your eyes or something bad like that.
Click to expand...
This is why I had my body guy pull my AC down and recover the refrigerant before I yanked my motor!

Also I 100% agree it's not that bad just very time consuming. As you mentioned zip lock bags and label EVERYTHING! I took tons of pictures and put blue tape labels on every plug on the wiring harness as well as pictures.
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
This is why I had my body guy pull my AC down and recover the refrigerant before I yanked my motor!

Also I 100% agree it's not that bad just very time consuming. As you mentioned zip lock bags and label EVERYTHING! I took tons of pictures and put blue tape labels on every plug on the wiring harness as well as pictures.
Click to expand...

How long did it take you?
 
chris' speed 3 said:
How long did it take you?
Click to expand...
I started on a Friday after work and by Sunday evening I had it stripped to a long block and in a crate I built to take it to my engine builder.

I was down for 6 weeks and when I got the long block back it took me about 9 days to get it all back together the way I wanted. Some of that time was spent adding wiring for my oil temp and pressure gauges and figuring out how to route and build my turbo oil feed with inline filter. I wasn't in a rush and just took my time.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/well-its-out.13831/
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
I started on a Friday after work and by Sunday evening I had it stripped to a long block and in a crate I built to take it to my engine builder.

I was down for 6 weeks and when I got the long block back it took me about 9 days to get it all back together the way I wanted. Some of that time was spent adding wiring for my oil temp and pressure gauges and figuring out how to route and build my turbo oil feed with inline filter. I wasn't in a rush and just took my time.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/well-its-out.13831/
Click to expand...
Props for the inline turbo oil feed filter. That's meticulous work there lol I definitely haven't seen anyone doing that but a good secondary protection from oil debris.

Sounds like your turnaround time was fast for the engine. It took me about 12 weeks (3 months) to get my engine back from my builder.

I would honestly suggest doing an oem rebuild with manley h beam rods and forged pistons which that is a proven combo.

You being in Canada may make it too expensive I suppose. Just depends if you want something to turn up or just another car to drive around. Oem is great but if you want more than 350-400 this is the time to spend a little more and know it won't blow up unless you're over 600. Just my opinion about it
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Props for the inline turbo oil feed filter. That's meticulous work there lol I definitely haven't seen anyone doing that but a good secondary protection from oil debris.

Sounds like your turnaround time was fast for the engine. It took me about 12 weeks (3 months) to get my engine back from my builder.

I would honestly suggest doing an oem rebuild with manley h beam rods and forged pistons which that is a proven combo.

You being in Canada may make it too expensive I suppose. Just depends if you want something to turn up or just another car to drive around. Oem is great but if you want more than 350-400 this is the time to spend a little more and know it won't blow up unless you're over 600. Just my opinion about it
Click to expand...

I know most of you guys are adults with full time jobs making money, im in school and im 18 as much as id love to 'turn up' unfortunately I can't. i can't do more then oem rebuild and I'd have to install it myself. I know I know, i should sell my car and buy a civic or some economy car but I'll lose a shit ton of money by selling it in its current state. Ill figure out what my options are and when this thing is finally fixed ill be so happy.
 
chris' speed 3 said:
I know most of you guys are adults with full time jobs making money, im in school and im 18 as much as id love to 'turn up' unfortunately I can't. i can't do more then oem rebuild and I'd have to install it myself. I know I know, i should sell my car and buy a civic or some economy car but I'll lose a shit ton of money by selling it in its current state. Ill figure out what my options are and when this thing is finally fixed ill be so happy.
Click to expand...
Actually man I have been laid off 6 months out of this year and barely made it by tbh lol I am 27 and an apprentice pipefitter and our union has sucked this year. No jobs hardly and everything is crazy slow. I would honestly just try to find a used engine with as low of miles as possible and throw that baby in there.

I got my car when I was younger and haven't had money except tax times but have loved it and it has treated me well. I would look for a good condition donor engine and do your best installing it carefully.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Props for the inline turbo oil feed filter. That's meticulous work there lol I definitely haven't seen anyone doing that but a good secondary protection from oil debris.

Sounds like your turnaround time was fast for the engine. It took me about 12 weeks (3 months) to get my engine back from my builder.

I would honestly suggest doing an oem rebuild with manley h beam rods and forged pistons which that is a proven combo.

You being in Canada may make it too expensive I suppose. Just depends if you want something to turn up or just another car to drive around. Oem is great but if you want more than 350-400 this is the time to spend a little more and know it won't blow up unless you're over 600. Just my opinion about it
Click to expand...
Thanks, it took some figuring out with some of the fittings but it wasn't too bad. Bryan at BNR has it mentioned on his website that it's required. They had seen turbos come in for warranty with scored journal bearings due to break in debris on built motors

I had a local shop that is very Speed friendly put my motor together and it supposed to only take 2-3 weeks but the machine shop caused some delays. I've got 10 k on the motor now and so far so good. I'm hoping to have a DD by spring time so I can stop driving this thing so much. Also going to retune on a 3.5 intake and a Cobb DP with E30 and see what this S2 will do!

chris' speed 3 said:
I know most of you guys are adults with full time jobs making money, im in school and im 18 as much as id love to 'turn up' unfortunately I can't. i can't do more then oem rebuild and I'd have to install it myself. I know I know, i should sell my car and buy a civic or some economy car but I'll lose a shit ton of money by selling it in its current state. Ill figure out what my options are and when this thing is finally fixed ill be so happy.
Click to expand...
I've said it before and I'll say it again there is NOTHING financially responsible about building a motor in one of these cars! No shame in not being able to afford to put a built motor in this is a hobby and an expensive one. I've wanted to yank a motor and do something like this for a really long time I just had other priorities. Last year this time was kind of the perfect storm for it to happen. Like you mentioned if the used car market wasn't so F-ed up I'm pretty sure I wouldn't still have my Speed. I most likely would have found a one year old Golf R with 10k or less on the clock just like I found my Speed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
StreetSpeed6 said:
Actually man I have been laid off 6 months out of this year and barely made it by tbh lol I am 27 and an apprentice pipefitter and our union has sucked this year. No jobs hardly and everything is crazy slow. I would honestly just try to find a used engine with as low of miles as possible and throw that baby in there.

I got my car when I was younger and haven't had money except tax times but have loved it and it has treated me well. I would look for a good condition donor engine and do your best installing it carefully.
Click to expand...

Sorry for assuming, hope things start picking up for you

As for finding a donor engine, I looked at most of them are 3k+, and I can get a fresh rebuild for 3600, so I'll go that route
 
chris' speed 3 said:
Sorry for assuming, hope things start picking up for you

As for finding a donor engine, I looked at most of them are 3k+, and I can get a fresh rebuild for 3600, so I'll go that route
Click to expand...

As long as the Time & Money equation works out for you, do what works. If you have a fully ready-to-go longblock you should be able to hotswap it in no time.

The 2.5 block is suggested because it is hilariously cheap, but won't be as sturdy as a 2.3 or a 2.3 built in the long run. It will also take some more time in the form of research, head swapping, and all that associated work which will affect your equation one way or the other, but if Money is the more important part of the equation than time it could be the way to go. Sounds like though you could find a good motor (just make sure it isn't a reman!) for a price that works for you, so the equation works out that way instead and time becomes more important, which you will save with a fully ready longblock.
 
jdab555 said:
As long as the Time & Money equation works out for you, do what works. If you have a fully ready-to-go longblock you should be able to hotswap it in no time.

The 2.5 block is suggested because it is hilariously cheap, but won't be as sturdy as a 2.3 or a 2.3 built in the long run. It will also take some more time in the form of research, head swapping, and all that associated work which will affect your equation one way or the other, but if Money is the more important part of the equation than time it could be the way to go. Sounds like though you could find a good motor (just make sure it isn't a reman!) for a price that works for you, so the equation works out that way instead and time becomes more important, which you will save with a fully ready longblock.
Click to expand...

Money and Time are both important but the more time I can't drive my car the more money I lose, so Ill ask my guy to build me an OE engine with rebuilt block and head. Then ill see where funds are he can install it for 1400 in a weekend or I take 2 weeks and figure it out
 
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