[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

So I went to see my mechanic today, he called over someone that seemed to no a lot about speeds and DI turbo engines. He scanned is with some insane snap on scanner and he and my mechanic both agreed that the first step is could because the cylinder with low compression isn't misfiring only 2 and 3 are. So i ordered 2 oem coils from mazda and i hope they fix it but im not convinced. we checked over waste gate, exhaust restriction and vacuum leaks and came up short so there's not much else to check besides injector but I had them serviced recently so I doubt its that. Anyways ill let you guys know when i pick up the new coils wednesday if it fixes the problem.
 
Easter Bunny said:
Did they try swapping the coils around to see if the misfire followed the coils?
Click to expand...

idk what was going on but he said wed have to drive the car for 20km after and since it doesn't miss at idle it would be hard to see, definitely could of swapped them around but ik and they know that non oem coils are crap, the last shop put a non oem coil
 
guys I need help, So my mechanic has my car he's been working on it with another mechanic that knows a lot about DI turbo cars all day friday and today. They've looked at everything, they swapped injectors, checked wiring, checked burn time with a scope, etc etc checked leak down again and 1-8% 2-25% 3-10% 4-60%, he told me 4 ironically is running the best out of all 4. the misfire is on cylinder 2 and 3 not 4, he noticed that at the tip of the spark plugs on cylinder 2-3 there's a small white spot like on the end of the electrode. What would cause this? You guys are experienced I need some help, thank you
@Enki @L337TurboZ @StreetSpeed6
 
chris' speed 3 said:
guys I need help, So my mechanic has my car he's been working on it with another mechanic that knows a lot about DI turbo cars all day friday and today. They've looked at everything, they swapped injectors, checked wiring, checked burn time with a scope, etc etc checked leak down again and 1-8% 2-25% 3-10% 4-60%, he told me 4 ironically is running the best out of all 4. the misfire is on cylinder 2 and 3 not 4, he noticed that at the tip of the spark plugs on cylinder 2-3 there's a small white spot like on the end of the electrode. What would cause this? You guys are experienced I need some help, thank you
@Enki @L337TurboZ @StreetSpeed6
Click to expand...
Have you tried flashing a different map onto the car? Sometimes weird things can happen when a tune messes up. Obviously you're way beyond that at this point in the mechanics of it but just curious. Honestly seems like an electrical issue more than a mechanical one to me.

Why else would it not let the turbo build boost? I would assume if it was mechanical the turbo would still build boost but the car wouldn't like it or something.
 
L337TurboZ said:
You should probably have them pull the cylinder head. Check the surface for warpage or cracks.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't that affect leak down? if they run out of things to check im sure they'll do that
StreetSpeed6 said:
Have you tried flashing a different map onto the car? Sometimes weird things can happen when a tune messes up. Obviously you're way beyond that at this point in the mechanics of it but just curious. Honestly seems like an electrical issue more than a mechanical one to me.

Why else would it not let the turbo build boost? I would assume if it was mechanical the turbo would still build boost but the car wouldn't like it or something.
Click to expand...
It can build boost if i force it just chokes and misfire before i can get to boost
 
I've given all the advice I can give online. Unfortunately it seems like either your "mechanics" are inept and unable to figure it out or there is something internal to the engine that's causing this issue.

Without you pulling the engine, doing a full tear down and inspection of the components there is little else I can say to help.

The following things need to be checked during tear down:

Cylinder head warpage with a KNOWN GOOD tool. Preferably laser cut straight edge for minimal deviation readings.

The cylinder deck surface needs to be checked for warpage as well.

Check all the valve seats for cracks or damage

Check the block and head for cracks or damage

Check the pistons for cracks at ring lands, check rings for cracks or damage

Check the crankshaft for OOR (out of round) journals, check crankshaft end play with a good micrometer to determine if that's in spec

Check your cam lobes for wear, check all valve lash settings before tear down to determine if the caps are worn

The list goes on. I want to help you get your car figured out but there is only so much we can tell you on here and are unable to verify in person.

My suggestion is just to sell it and go to a different, more affordable platform for someone your age. This isn't meant to be an insult. Just know if you really do want your car fixed that badly it may cost you a LOT of money and time. It's up to you how much that's worth.
 
L337TurboZ said:
I've given all the advice I can give online. Unfortunately it seems like either your "mechanics" are inept and unable to figure it out or there is something internal to the engine that's causing this issue.

Without you pulling the engine, doing a full tear down and inspection of the components there is little else I can say to help.

The following things need to be checked during tear down:

Cylinder head warpage with a KNOWN GOOD tool. Preferably laser cut straight edge for minimal deviation readings.

The cylinder deck surface needs to be checked for warpage as well.

Check all the valve seats for cracks or damage

Check the block and head for cracks or damage

Check the pistons for cracks at ring lands, check rings for cracks or damage

Check the crankshaft for OOR (out of round) journals, check crankshaft end play with a good micrometer to determine if that's in spec

Check your cam lobes for wear, check all valve lash settings before tear down to determine if the caps are worn

The list goes on. I want to help you get your car figured out but there is only so much we can tell you on here and are unable to verify in person.

My suggestion is just to sell it and go to a different, more affordable platform for someone your age. This isn't meant to be an insult. Just know if you really do want your car fixed that badly it may cost you a LOT of money and time. It's up to you how much that's worth.
Click to expand...

Im going to keep it im ready to pay for whatever it is to get it fixed. My mechanics are certified and have their own shop im not asking some friends to look at it, but im confident they'll figure it out soon. Anyways thanks for the feedback, your right there's only so much you guys can do without actually seeing the car. Ill keep u guys updated should know by the end of this week what's going on
 
chris' speed 3 said:
Im going to keep it im ready to pay for whatever it is to get it fixed. My mechanics are certified and have their own shop im not asking some friends to look at it, but im confident they'll figure it out soon. Anyways thanks for the feedback, your right there's only so much you guys can do without actually seeing the car. Ill keep u guys updated should know by the end of this week what's going on
Click to expand...
I am stumped as well. Hopefully it it is figured out but I will tell you now that pulling the head on this platform requires you to re-time the engine and buy lots of new vvt stuff so might as well pull the motor at that point. Just my opinion but all that stuff is easier to do out of the car and will probably not cost much different (just my .02¢ from pulling my engine twice and doing a timing job once in the car which took me over 10hrs total). You'll get it fixed but definitely could check the timing and tightness of the vvt chain at TDC.

Maybe it has lost timing partially which is making it run terrible when it tries to adjust the cam vvt for boost? I am out of things to think of hardly. Let us know :)
 
So guys they've checked timing, checked wiring, moved injectors, checked fuel pressure, checked burn time, checked the waveforms and that fancy stuff with a zeus snap on scanner everything is good. I have a question he told me that this morning when he started it there was no misfire and he was able to boost, last night was like -25c. what would cause the misfire to go away when its really cold?
 
chris' speed 3 said:
So guys they've checked timing, checked wiring, moved injectors, checked fuel pressure, checked burn time, checked the waveforms and that fancy stuff with a zeus snap on scanner everything is good. I have a question he told me that this morning when he started it there was no misfire and he was able to boost, last night was like -25c. what would cause the misfire to go away when its really cold?
Click to expand...

A sealed crack in the block or head that expands and is only an issue when warm.
 
chris' speed 3 said:
So guys they've checked timing, checked wiring, moved injectors, checked fuel pressure, checked burn time, checked the waveforms and that fancy stuff with a zeus snap on scanner everything is good. I have a question he told me that this morning when he started it there was no misfire and he was able to boost, last night was like -25c. what would cause the misfire to go away when its really cold?
Click to expand...
I still think it must be ecu related. Hopefully you don't spend so much screwing with the current problem that you can't replace the motor if it turns out to be the issue.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Have you actually removed the turbo to check for issues with it? When trying to boost did your AFRs go stupid rich or anything of this nature?
Click to expand...

Haven't removed turbo but they checked the waste gate and the boost solenoid its all working properly. AFR went to 16+/- when it misses also when under boost
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

INVALID
  • 0.00 star(s)
Power Train Skid Plate
Replies
17
Views
879
INVALID
INVALID
  • 0.00 star(s)
Intermittent loss of power steering
Replies
3
Views
538
kgyawa26
kgyawa26
kgyawa26
  • 0.00 star(s)
[SOLVED] Intermittent Power Cycling of Cabin Electronics + More
Replies
4
Views
509
kgyawa26
kgyawa26
  • 0.00 star(s)
No speedometer, abs light on , traction light on, power steering light on
Replies
9
Views
1K
Enki
Enki
MPSowner
  • 0.00 star(s)
HELP! no power when hitting 3k rpm
Replies
3
Views
568
jsmith
jsmith
Back
Top