OEM parts list for clutch replacement.

neganox

neganox

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So it appears my stock clutch no longer enjoys WOT pulls without making my engine rev and make smelly smells.

Does anyone have a list of OEM parts and part numbers that should be replaced during a clutch replacement?

I know of rear main seal, flywheel bolts?, driveshaft seal, drive shaft c ring?, slave cylinder. Anything else?
 
How many miles?

Don't forget Trans fluid


If you'll be dropping the sub frame, which I personally don't, think about an aftermarket front sway bar or at least the bushings while you're there depending on mileage.
 
Do you have any specific power goals in mind later on?

I sold my car to a friend and popped out the act 6 puck, in went the spec stg3 disc and pressure plate that works with oem flywheel. Another friend has a South Bend with no complaints. Both have decent amount of bolt ons and tuned. Pedal stiffness is reasonable as well on both.

The trick is, trying to find a shop to turn a dual mass flywheel if keeping the oem.
 
I'm around 360-380 now. That's probably where I'll stay. Maybe I'll switch meth kits and put on a CS manifold when it comes out, but those would be my only changes.
 
neganox said:
I'm around 360-380 now. That's probably where I'll stay. Maybe I'll switch meth kits and put on a CS manifold when it comes out, but those would be my only changes.
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I think the spec or southbend upgrade would be right up your alley. I've heard more positive things about the southbend. Doing it yourself?
 
Have you tried to unfuck it? I glazed mine twice and it still held nearly 400 WTQ.

While driving, when you go to slow down, slip the clutch while engine braking to get the clutch to spin in reverse direction in relation to the pressure plate and flywheel. This will help rough up the surface a bit and get you some grip back.
 
Spec said:
I think the spec or southbend upgrade would be right up your alley. I've heard more positive things about the southbend. Doing it yourself?
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Most likely no. I have no experience in clutches. Maybe if I can get some knowledgeable FL gays to show me the ropes

Enki said:
Have you tried to unfuck it? I glazed mine twice and it still held nearly 400 WTQ.

While driving, when you go to slow down, slip the clutch while engine braking to get the clutch to spin in reverse direction in relation to the pressure plate and flywheel. This will help rough up the surface a bit and get you some grip back.
Click to expand...

I'll give this a shot.
 
Neil... Dude... Why didn't you ask questions about this at @Raider s while I was there??? I would have totally walked you through it considering the trans was out and you would have been able to see the clutch and what not.

Super easy and simple man. As far as parts list.

Get an aftermarket clutch/flywheel.
Throw out bearing.
Pilot bearing
6 new flywheel bolts

I'm pretty sure that most full kits come with the pressure plate bolts as well since those will need to be replaced.

Maybe we can get @Matt@DM to bring his old clutch swap thread over to MSO for references.

I'll get part numbers up later if nobody beats me to it.
 
Haha I didn't feel any issues until after the mini install meet. It might not even be the clutch.. still have to do some logs.
 
neganox said:
Haha I didn't feel any issues until after the mini install meet. It might not even be the clutch.. still have to do some logs.
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By what you said in OP, I'd say it's clutch.

And bummer you didn't catch it before hand.
 
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