Oil Leak - Built Motor

Do you think it's a head gasket leak?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • No

    Votes: 4 100.0%
  • Total voters
    4
Chemmedic

Chemmedic

Greenie N00B Member
Hello all,

Long time member, but I've been inactive for the last while. I came into the hobby not knowing anything, still don't know much.

With the help of friends (@Awafrican) and this forum, I rescued (a shop rebuilt the engine) a 07 MS3 with blown o rings and a gouge in cylinder 3, and lovingly put the whole thing back together. It took me way longer to tune (Freak) it then I should have, but eventually got it done. This was back in 2016. Bear in mind, this car sits in storage pretty often, as I'm either away or just don't have time for it.

Full list of mods I won't get into, but the main ones are a GTX 2970 turbo, CS HPFP, Cobb FIMIC, Southbend clutch, CNT DP, plus some more supporting mods.

Fast forward to this past year, and I have noticed oil leaking now. Initially about 1 litre /oil change, and now more like 2. I can't find the source. I think it is the longblock, as it seems to come, not quite from everywhere, but several places certainly. At first I noticed some seeping from the valve cover, and I tightened that down and it was better. Pulled spark plugs and they were rich but tolerable. I've checked the compression, which I've been doing as soon as I noticed this issue, and I did find something. Compression is stable at 180 in cylinder 1 and 175 in 2, 155 in 3, and 170 in 4. I've had the chance to check this over several months wet and dry, and these numbers haven't budged at all. I has the idea to install a Kosmic Oil Catch Can, as I had foolishly neglected to properly vent, I had been running a JBR stage 1 can up to that point. I thought maybe block pressure might be causing the leak. Obviously it hasn't improved, the catch can does seem to be drawing off some fuel, but that's kind of hard to tell from the crap that comes out of there.

Overall, the car is running great. Cobb tuner gets me to an estimate of about 350 to the wheels, though I've never done a real dyno. I know the setup is probably capable of more, but I'm happy where it is power wise. I'm holding 24 psi, WOTs pull like a sun of a bitch, I'm actually scared to drive the car full tilt... I don't notice clouds of smoke, no rough idle, I would guess that I am burning some oil, but the spark plugs aren't fouled, and the tail pipe is not spewing carbon. I'm not seeing coolant in the oil or anything like that. I did see a residue of oil in my intercooler piping, but not quantities that had me worried.
So if anyone has any ideas, I'm open to listening. My main problem these days is I just have no where to work like I used to after moving to a bigger city. I'd love to pull the valve cover and start poking around, but I just can't do that where I live now. So I'll likely have to take it to a shop regardless. But I'd at least like to know what I'm likely dealing with so I know who I should take it to. I'm thinking it's head gasket. Hoping someone can confirm that.
 
There's a chance that the oil burns into the cylinders and it's just a few drops that pour on the block. 2 litres of oil sipping down the block can't go unnoticed... they leave a pretty consistent trail of gunky crap on the sides of the engine...
 
Chemmedic said:
Fast forward to this past year, and I have noticed oil leaking now. Initially about 1 litre /oil change, and now more like 2. I can't find the source. I think it is the longblock, as it seems to come, not quite from everywhere, but several places certainly.
Click to expand...

@mituc he has noticed oil leaking from around the engine, see part I just quoted, I'm not sure what's causing it, I've seen it as well.
 
Awafrican said:
@mituc he has noticed oil leaking from around the engine, see part I just quoted, I'm not sure what's causing it, I've seen it as well.
Click to expand...
Only suggestion I've heard that is plausible, turbo return line could be leaking and I can't really check that. The leak seems to be more close to the front left however (over the transmission and I notice some on the front right too).

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
Over the transmission the only place to leak would be the hpfp housing bolted to the head, there is a gasket there that could be leaking.

Could also just be fuel dilution and bigger ring gaps burning some of the oil. My built motor would use about a quart of royal purple in 1000 miles, switched to rotella and that dropped to less than 1qt in 3k miles.
 
Ssinstaller said:
Over the transmission the only place to leak would be the hpfp housing bolted to the head, there is a gasket there that could be leaking.

Could also just be fuel dilution and bigger ring gaps burning some of the oil. My built motor would use about a quart of royal purple in 1000 miles, switched to rotella and that dropped to less than 1qt in 3k miles.
Click to expand...

The HPFP, that's a possibility actually. I have noticed some more around there, and if I'm not mistaken I didn't replace that O ring when I did the HPFP. @Awafrican was with me, he probably remembers better though. Maybe it's time to pull the HPFP and give it some love. Not sure when I'll have the chance to do it, but it's an idea.

I was on Rotella T6. Same issue. Now I'm trying RP.
Even if it is the HPFP, I think there is leaking else where though. As you say, could some sneaking past the rings.
 
Chemmedic said:
The HPFP, that's a possibility actually. I have noticed some more around there, and if I'm not mistaken I didn't replace that O ring when I did the HPFP. @Awafrican was with me, he probably remembers better though. Maybe it's time to pull the HPFP and give it some love. Not sure when I'll have the chance to do it, but it's an idea.

I was on Rotella T6. Same issue. Now I'm trying RP.
Even if it is the HPFP, I think there is leaking else where though. As you say, could some sneaking past the rings.
Click to expand...
I honestly don’t think it sounds like a head gasket but cylinder #3 sounds like it’s not doing so hot lol I built my motor recently and had my hpfp leak at the block. It barely still is but apparently some people say it takes a dab of BLACK rtv at the 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions.

It is supposed to go on the side of the gasket that goes against the block. I feel you are experiencing several things at once which makes it seem worse than it is. I would suggest looking under the car at the oil filter/oil cooler area (which is known to leak). Remove the hpfp from block and clean it up, then check the oil drain line for leaks. Also, the oil pan could have a loose bolt or two or the washer could have been left off the oil drain plug.

All things I have come to realize are minor things that I have addressed to fix my oil leak issues.
 
Most doable way of detecting leak is buying the oil dye from local autoparts and renting their a/c UV leak detector.

-the last cap for the cam caps near the hpfp, needed a dab of RTV in there
-HPFP gasket (metal gasket)
-valve cover gasket. (sometimes doesnt sit properly nomattery how hard you try)
-VVT solenoid gasket in valve cover also prone to leaking.
-hopfully not rear main seal.
-oil pan RTV sometimes this thing is painful to align or not enough or not properly installed. need to follow instruction on the brand of rtv used.
-oil cooler gasket. (the o ring where the oil cooler and oil filter housing, mazda did revise this, older version FORD made always leak)
-oil filter housing gasket (when it leaks it goes straight to the oil pan, theres a "pocket" underneath the oil cooler/oilpan meet, the pocket is used to pry the oil pan off, most of the time the oil accumulate there and it leaks all over and its hard to trace it.)
-oil filter o ring can also leak.
-front main seal or crank seal, when it leaks it goes to the belt and the belt splatter everything everywhere.
-PCV plate gasket can also cause leak, since oil also accumulate inside it, some people reused the gasket or even the fitting if you have aftermarket pcv can leak.

hopefully you find your leak man.
 
an engine that sits and is used for short trips will have higher oil use than an engine which sees frequent longer (30 min+) trips

a forged engine with opened up tolerances will use more oil than a stock motor

obviously you have some leaks but you could be burning a bunch of oil without it actually being an issue
 
Easter Bunny said:
an engine that sits and is used for short trips will have higher oil use than an engine which sees frequent longer (30 min+) trips

a forged engine with opened up tolerances will use more oil than a stock motor

obviously you have some leaks but you could be burning a bunch of oil without it actually being an issue
Click to expand...
that's somewhat reassuring, thanks. I suspected that to a certain extent but it's nice to hear from someone else.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
Eroler1 said:
Most doable way of detecting leak is buying the oil dye from local autoparts and renting their a/c UV leak detector.

-the last cap for the cam caps near the hpfp, needed a dab of RTV in there
-HPFP gasket (metal gasket)
-valve cover gasket. (sometimes doesnt sit properly nomattery how hard you try)
-VVT solenoid gasket in valve cover also prone to leaking.
-hopfully not rear main seal.
-oil pan RTV sometimes this thing is painful to align or not enough or not properly installed. need to follow instruction on the brand of rtv used.
-oil cooler gasket. (the o ring where the oil cooler and oil filter housing, mazda did revise this, older version FORD made always leak)
-oil filter housing gasket (when it leaks it goes straight to the oil pan, theres a "pocket" underneath the oil cooler/oilpan meet, the pocket is used to pry the oil pan off, most of the time the oil accumulate there and it leaks all over and its hard to trace it.)
-oil filter o ring can also leak.
-front main seal or crank seal, when it leaks it goes to the belt and the belt splatter everything everywhere.
-PCV plate gasket can also cause leak, since oil also accumulate inside it, some people reused the gasket or even the fitting if you have aftermarket pcv can leak.

hopefully you find your leak man.
Click to expand...
From that list I think hpfp, oil cooler gasket and pcv plate seem most likely culprits. I've got a spin on conversion so I think I'm safe from some of those oil filter issues.
I should definitely try the dye though.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
do you have the black oil cooler? Have issue at top with leak
Mazdaspeed_3_Stock_Oil_Cooler.jpg

or the raw metal one? revised and rarely leak at top
hqdefault.jpg


both actually works with spin oil.
if it leaks from the top then the oil goes behind the oil filter housing which then distributes it in random place,

sometimes it can even go between the transmission and oil pan and making you think its RMS
 
Eroler1 said:
do you have the black oil cooler? Have issue at top with leak
Mazdaspeed_3_Stock_Oil_Cooler.jpg

or the raw metal one? revised and rarely leak at top
hqdefault.jpg


both actually works with spin oil.
if it leaks from the top then the oil goes behind the oil filter housing which then distributes it in random place,

sometimes it can even go between the transmission and oil pan and making you think its RMS
Click to expand...
Mind blown. I have the black one. it eas looking rough last I saw it. So that's definitely a candidate. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
Eroler1 said:
do you have the black oil cooler? Have issue at top with leak

or the raw metal one? revised and rarely leak at top


both actually works with spin oil.
if it leaks from the top then the oil goes behind the oil filter housing which then distributes it in random place,

sometimes it can even go between the transmission and oil pan and making you think its RMS
Click to expand...

I also have this, https://edgeautosport.com/prosport-...006-2007-ford-focus-st-2013-2018-more-models/ Anyone know if there are fitment issues? As for the oil cooler, I found the one on edge, it's $392, but Rock Auto has one as well for $76, any opinions?


https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem...7-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007-cx-7-2007-2012/
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8715080&cc=1434570&jsn=927
 
If you could get a used revised (silver) oil cooler it would be great, for some unknown reason the rockauto looks like its the black one just with elbow in it, lol, the revised oil cooler have different gasket, just pure black rubber, doesnt have any blue plastic in it, like the rockauto one and the black cooler,

anything from 08-13
2.3 mazda or even the 2.0/2.5 they all have the same cooler. so maybe in your auto recycling center its available

theres shouldnt be a fitment issue with the sandwhich plate if you have the spin on style.
 
Update:
Ended up replacing the oil cooler, however I can say the leak wasn't coming from there.
So next I'm going to try the HPFP gasket, valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket. Those should all be relatively easy jobs, but does anyone have any pointers for the valve cover and oil pan? I'm going to try and do them all this month if all goes well.
 
It’s been years since I did a bsd on my car and dropped the pan. Just make sure the oil pan is clean and follow the rtv instructions. The oil pan didn’t go back in smoothly. Maybe the timing cover was in the way a bit. I remember popping the oil pan into place.
 
Use this for the oil pan:
1.jpg
I did for my BSD and not only did it never leak, when I went to take it off I found I probably could have removed all the bolts from the pan, run over a rock with the pan, and still not had a leak (it was on there good).
 
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