Post ZZB Diaries CWP Gen1

alexwlwsn said:
Baby got a new pair of shoes! I put the 17x9 RPF1s on today with a nice sticky Hoosier DR on the front. Haven't driven in the warm yet with them but I've heard they hook mighty well. These actually sit slightly further in compared to the Evo X wheels and I haven't had any rubbing on my rear yet which is refreshing.
View attachment 4497

And took a little 4th gear pull video since I think some people were curious. To be fair, you aren't in much of a power band on a straight 4th gear pull (a 3-4 with higher rpm throughout would be better) but it's still interesting to see.



Also, I'm trying to figure out a little issue I've been having. Super rich condition when coming to a stop. Basically I clutch in and I'll dip to ~10 afr, then chill at ~11.5 afr for about 7 seconds before it starts equalizing. At this time the STFT shoots to -25.X and stays there until the AFRs start to equalize. Under normal driving and WOT- AFR, LTFT, and STFT are all excellent.
I'm wondering if the line to my BOV is causing issues with the BOV sealing since it's T'd off to go to my boost gauge sensor and RRFPR. I am really not sure if that could quite cause the problem I'm running into though. If anybody still comes to this thread, feel free to toss ideas into the bucket!
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Some AFR "hunting" is totally normal when coming to a stop, at least with Genpus. As I understand it, it's part of how the ECU tests the functionality of the O2 sensor and keeps everything in check. Can anyone speak to this on a Won? Also, did you specifically notice the same conditions before with different results? I'm not sure about you, but I know that I personally sometimes watch things like a hawk when I change my setup and am sometimes so hypervigilant that I make a "thing" out of something I find to be quite normal, but was oblivious to before I started watching extra carefully.
 
Redline said:
Some AFR "hunting" is totally normal when coming to a stop, at least with Genpus. As I understand it, it's part of how the ECU tests the functionality of the O2 sensor and keeps everything in check. Can anyone speak to this on a Won? Also, did you specifically notice the same conditions before with different results? I'm not sure about you, but I know that I personally sometimes watch things like a hawk when I change my setup and am sometimes so hypervigilant that I make a "thing" out of something I find to be quite normal, but was oblivious to before I started watching extra carefully.
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I honestly can't report if it was exactly the same before my build, but I can say I don't remember my STFT hitting-2X.XX every time I come to a stop. My main thing is that I don't want a rich condition fowling my plugs or anything. Just trying to keep on top of things really. Will isn't terribly worried though, it's just something I am curious that if it's a real issue or not (however minor).
 
Had a SUPER rich idle after warming up my car yesterday (10-11afr constant) but in cruising things were normal. STFTs were hard negative and LTFTs seem to be shifting south too. So, either this solenoid is sticking hard open or something else is up. It seems strange that when my issue started there was a distinct length of time where STFTs were negative, AFRs were rich, and then click - everything went to normal. This makes me feel something physical is causing this issue.

I'm not yet convinced I can rule out the purge solenoid. I gave it a little lube job after my rich idle incident and it seemed to improve things slightly. I might be picking up a Dorman OEM replacement one this evening though and tossing that on to see if anything improves more. I'll also clean up my MAF and then reflash my tune. Maybe a little reset will clean things up.
 
alexwlwsn said:
Had a SUPER rich idle after warming up my car yesterday (10-11afr constant) but in cruising things were normal. STFTs were hard negative and LTFTs seem to be shifting south too. So, either this solenoid is sticking hard open or something else is up. It seems strange that when my issue started there was a distinct length of time where STFTs were negative, AFRs were rich, and then click - everything went to normal. This makes me feel something physical is causing this issue.

I'm not yet convinced I can rule out the purge solenoid. I gave it a little lube job after my rich idle incident and it seemed to improve things slightly. I might be picking up a Dorman OEM replacement one this evening though and tossing that on to see if anything improves more. I'll also clean up my MAF and then reflash my tune. Maybe a little reset will clean things up.
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Rich @ idle could be a DP flange or other pre-O2 exhaust leak too, perhaps?
 
My car did the same exact thing, I did some searching and asked around but didn't find much other than thinking it was a vacuum leak. I fixed all my vacuum/boost leaks and still had my AFRs dipping rich when coming to a stop. It drove me nuts for awhile and I think it was Sean Strout that told me it could be the JMF because the plenum is so large. I just stopped worrying about it because it wasn't causing any driveability issues, at least after I fixed the leaks.
 
So, I must admit I was dumb. Filled up from almost empty with 5 gal e85 and 5 gal 93 octane like always and all my problems magically disappeared. I've been good so far at keeping my mix consistent but who knows. I guess it's time to get an ethanol content analyzer.
 
Track day bro!
IMG_20161203_105913026.jpg
Took a little trip to the track today to see if Will aka @Captain KR could crack a 9s pass. He got a real nice 20' and then PTO said "goodnight and good luck".
IMG_20161203_112816128.jpg

Having Nishan and WIll both in the same place at the same time today was fun because I could pick Nishan's brain a little and got some advice on which oil to run and they both recommended 15W50 Mobil One. I made that change today since my car's been tuned for almost 3000 miles now so it was that time. I had a minor ticking in the head which I was told not to worry about since the valve springs I have are pretty intense but that actually seems to be gone. Nishan said he almost guaranteed it to go away with thicker oil and it looks like he's right.

IMG_20161203_163330682.jpg

Other than that, tomorrow I'll be cracking open my HPFP spill valve. I got some nice cleaning directions from everybody's favorite mad scientist @Enki. I'm not sure if 3000 miles on E45ish blend will cause things to get gunked up but it can't hurt to take a look in there.
 
alexwlwsn said:
Track day bro!
View attachment 4560
Took a little trip to the track today to see if Will aka @Captain KR could crack a 9s pass. He got a real nice 20' and then PTO said "goodnight and good luck".
View attachment 4561

Having Nishan and WIll both in the same place at the same time today was fun because I could pick Nishan's brain a little and got some advice on which oil to run and they both recommended 15W50 Mobil One. I made that change today since my car's been tuned for almost 3000 miles now so it was that time. I had a minor ticking in the head which I was told not to worry about since the valve springs I have are pretty intense but that actually seems to be gone. Nishan said he almost guaranteed it to go away with thicker oil and it looks like he's right.

View attachment 4580

Other than that, tomorrow I'll be cracking open my HPFP spill valve. I got some nice cleaning directions from everybody's favorite mad scientist @Enki. I'm not sure if 3000 miles on E45ish blend will cause things to get gunked up but it can't hurt to take a look in there.
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Sweet stuff! I always heard our engines shear Mobil 1, though. But you do shorter intervals (right?) and are built though, so I'm sure that changes things. Anywho, gonna do a UOA, just to see how it likes it?
 
It shouldn't unless the oil doesn't like ethanol and heat in the same environment. If it does, just use the Redline shit and clean/reassemble like I told ya and you'll be fine for a long time.
 
Curious to see the results of a UOA with the mobil1. I've been using Brad Penn 10w40 in my built motor for most of its 54k miles with 2k mile intervals. Shits expensive, though.
 
Sho said:
Curious to see the results of a UOA with the mobil1. I've been using Brad Penn 10w40 in my built motor for most of its 54k miles with 2k mile intervals. Shits expensive, though.
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Yeah I am curious as well. I was going to go with Brad Penn for this change but since this came with such a recommendation, I figured why not.

Is it recommended that for Brad Penn you use such short intervals? I've read some places that sometimes shorter intervals actually wear a motor more since it's a little thicker initially. Almost like there's a sweet spot and going under will wear your motor over time since you have oil that's too new in the motor too often. (this may be totally false, it's just something I've read)
 
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alexwlwsn said:
Yeah I am curious as well. I was going to go with Brad Penn for this change but since this came with such a recommendation, I figured why not.

Is it recommended that for Brad Penn you use such short intervals? I've read some places that sometimes shorter intervals actually wear a motor more since it's a little thicker initially. Almost like there's a sweet spot and going under will wear your motor over time since you have oil that's too new in the motor too often. (this may be totally false, it's just something I've read)
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Nothing scientific about the intervals I changed my oil at. Basically, once the oil wasn't tinted green anymore , I'd change it. I haven't done a leak down test yet, but last compression test was:
1- 205psi
2- 200psi
3- 200psi
4- 205psi
 
@Sho that's awesome compression for a built motor at that many miles, are you running 10.5 CR pistons?

And here's the before and after shots relief valve cleaning I just did. Super easy and relaxing actually, I enjoy taking little things apart. It seemed to be a little dingy but I haven't seen the insides of many HPFPs before to make a real comparison.
IMG_20161204_130955416.jpg IMG_20161204_132124080.jpg IMG_20161204_132643529.jpg
 
Last edited:
Might as well bump this thread with a little cold start video:



Still running strong. I have next week off from work so I think I'm going to bring my car to my parent's garage and claybar/wax and put on my stock wheels finally with all seasons along with general maintenance. I'll have to take pictures of it all clean before putting the stock wheels on so the wax doesn't go to waste. I recently got some Adam's polish I'm looking forward to trying out.
 
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