Post ZZB Diaries CWP Gen1

[alexwlwsn]

I've been watching AFRs and they're on are on point when cruising but it runs a little rich for longer than I like when I clutch in to stop. Probably the catback and my eventual actual tune will polish all of that up. Will told me to just more or less ignore the AP (unless something seriously seems wrong) since this is a freshly built motor and really needs to break in before we can start messing around with it.

 

[nindoja]

I've been watching AFRs and they're on are on point when cruising but it runs a little rich for longer than I like when I clutch in to stop. Probably the catback and my eventual actual tune will polish all of that up. Will told me to just more or less ignore the AP (unless something seriously seems wrong) since this is a freshly built motor and really needs to break in before we can start messing around with it.

I'm going to disagree with ignoring that AP. My built engine was running great immediately after we cranked it, as did @JgamB's block. The one recent failure I saw of a new built engine likely would have been saved had the guy been keeping an eye on how rich his car was running. But alas, current theory is a warped manley rod due to fuel injectors getting stuck open.

That said, I guess an open downpipes can cause flames to be visible, but you shouldn't be super rich anyways.

 

[alexwlwsn]

I'm going to disagree with ignoring that AP. My built engine was running great immediately after we cranked it, as did @JgamB's block. The one recent failure I saw of a new built engine likely would have been saved had the guy been keeping an eye on how rich his car was running. But alas, current theory is a warped manley rod due to fuel injectors getting stuck open.

That said, I guess an open downpipes can cause flames to be visible, but you shouldn't be super rich anyways.

Oh I've definitely been watching it. I think he basically just meant not to worry as much as you would under a WOT pull or something. Like I said though, cruising AFR is lovely and it comes down to around 11.x under high load (haven't gone WOT yet) so everything so far as I can tell seems peachy.

Were those injectors serviced or anything before reinstall?

 

[nindoja]

Were those injectors serviced or anything before reinstall?

Unfortunately yeah, they were cleaned by InjectorRX (I think) before the engine went back in.

 

[alexwlwsn]

Unfortunately yeah, they were cleaned by InjectorRX (I think) before the engine went back in.

Ouch. They did mine and the test came back 100% so hopefully my injectors stay fresh!

 

[alexwlwsn]

A friend of mine had a spare set of HIDs for my foglights so I installed them last night. Sorry to everybody else on the highway but it's not a daily and it looks cool lol so screw it.

...don't mind my foot in the picture...

I should be getting my exhaust back today so I can FINALLY have a catback again. Hopefully no new noises are now audible from under the hood that were initially masked by open DP. Maybe I'll take a typical cold start video and ricer flyby once it's back on so I can hear how the FJ manifold sounds with my setup.

Over the last few days though I've put around 400 miles on my car with minimal issues. Basically all I've had to do it add some zip ties under the hood to neaten everything up and fix a small coolant leak. Soon I'll be doing my 500 mile oil change and impatiently waiting for the 1000 mile time.

BATs seem to be pretty good with the TR1035, they've chilled right around 15 above IAT which is nice. I am a little concerned with my coolant temp though as it usually gets to about 210-215 and stays there. I might look into picking up the SP63 fan controller as I have heard very good things about it.

 

[nindoja]

A friend of mine had a spare set of HIDs for my foglights so I installed them last night. Sorry to everybody else on the highway but it's not a daily and it looks cool lol so screw it.
View attachment 3881
...don't mind my foot in the picture...

I should be getting my exhaust back today so I can FINALLY have a catback again. Hopefully no new noises are now audible from under the hood that were initially masked by open DP. Maybe I'll take a typical cold start video and ricer flyby once it's back on so I can hear how the FJ manifold sounds with my setup.

Over the last few days though I've put around 400 miles on my car with minimal issues. Basically all I've had to do it add some zip ties under the hood to neaten everything up and fix a small coolant leak. Soon I'll be doing my 500 mile oil change and impatiently waiting for the 1000 mile time.

BATs seem to be pretty good with the TR1035, they've chilled right around 15 above IAT which is nice. I am a little concerned with my coolant temp though as it usually gets to about 210-215 and stays there. I might look into picking up the SP63 fan controller as I have heard very good things about it.

Talk to Farhan (@Farhan@DM) about his cheap/easy fix for forcing fans on. He setup a quick and easy fan controller that's run by a switch. The neat thing is that the normal fan controller still works with his setup too.

 

[blackms3_71]

Talk to Farhan (@Farhan@DM) about his cheap/easy fix for forcing fans on. He setup a quick and easy fan controller that's run by a switch. The neat thing is that the normal fan controller still works with his setup too.

hmm that seems nice. I have the sp63 fan controller and I must say its really nice to have.
[doublepost=1474476518][/doublepost]

A friend of mine had a spare set of HIDs for my foglights so I installed them last night. Sorry to everybody else on the highway but it's not a daily and it looks cool lol so screw it.
View attachment 3881
...don't mind my foot in the picture...

I should be getting my exhaust back today so I can FINALLY have a catback again. Hopefully no new noises are now audible from under the hood that were initially masked by open DP. Maybe I'll take a typical cold start video and ricer flyby once it's back on so I can hear how the FJ manifold sounds with my setup.

Over the last few days though I've put around 400 miles on my car with minimal issues. Basically all I've had to do it add some zip ties under the hood to neaten everything up and fix a small coolant leak. Soon I'll be doing my 500 mile oil change and impatiently waiting for the 1000 mile time.

BATs seem to be pretty good with the TR1035, they've chilled right around 15 above IAT which is nice. I am a little concerned with my coolant temp though as it usually gets to about 210-215 and stays there. I might look into picking up the SP63 fan controller as I have heard very good things about it.

what brand hid kit? I want to do the same

 

[alexwlwsn]

hmm that seems nice. I have the sp63 fan controller and I must say its really nice to have.
[doublepost=1474476518][/doublepost]

what brand hid kit? I want to do the same

I'll check when I get home to see what brand they are. It has a digital slim ballast too which is real nice and easy to fit in there.

 

[Redline]

LEDs are the new tech. Last 10x as long as HID, usually have superior beam distributions characteristics (fewer hot spots/streaks/etc.), instant off/on, and no ballasts or extra wiring to mess with mounting/routing. These particular ones (and other other lines they made) supposedly fit AMAZINGLY well into the housing. I've personally had some issues getting HID bulbs in because the fitment isn't nearly as good sometimes (the various tabs on the various bulbs that go into the light housings):

http://www.kempimages.com/catalog/i...51/mn_2500/pg_1/br_Auxbeam/Best--Reviews.html

I'm thinking of converting my low beams, just to try them out
I like the F-S3 for maximum lumens, but the F-16s are the top-of-the-line. You can get them on Prime too.

 

[alexwlwsn]

LEDs are the new tech. Last 10x as long as HID, usually have superior beam distributions characteristics (fewer hot spots/streaks/etc.), instant off/on, and no ballasts or extra wiring to mess with mounting/routing. These particular ones (and other other lines they made) supposedly fit AMAZINGLY well into the housing. I've personally had some issues getting HID bulbs in because the fitment isn't nearly as good sometimes (the various tabs on the various bulbs that go into the light housings):

http://www.kempimages.com/catalog/i...51/mn_2500/pg_1/br_Auxbeam/Best--Reviews.html

I'm thinking of converting my low beams, just to try them out
I like the F-S3 for maximum lumens, but the F-16s are the top-of-the-line. You can get them on Prime too.

Those are really reasonably priced too! I have a GT so I wouldn't really need to change out my factory HIDs (yet I guess) but maybe when I get bored I'll pick up a pair of those for my fogs.

 

[blackms3_71]

LEDs are the new tech. Last 10x as long as HID, usually have superior beam distributions characteristics (fewer hot spots/streaks/etc.), instant off/on, and no ballasts or extra wiring to mess with mounting/routing. These particular ones (and other other lines they made) supposedly fit AMAZINGLY well into the housing. I've personally had some issues getting HID bulbs in because the fitment isn't nearly as good sometimes (the various tabs on the various bulbs that go into the light housings):

http://www.kempimages.com/catalog/i...51/mn_2500/pg_1/br_Auxbeam/Best--Reviews.html

I'm thinking of converting my low beams, just to try them out
I like the F-S3 for maximum lumens, but the F-16s are the top-of-the-line. You can get them on Prime too.

From what i have seen and told leds do not give you the distance of light like a normal bulb. They are brighter but i think its pointless if i can see as far ahead of me.

 

[blackms3_71]

Those are really reasonably priced too! I have a GT so I wouldn't really need to change out my factory HIDs (yet I guess) but maybe when I get bored I'll pick up a pair of those for my fogs.

I also have gt and had no issues with the hid from the factory. They are pretty bright also.

 

[Redline]

From what i have seen and told leds do not give you the distance of light like a normal bulb. They are brighter but i think its pointless if i can see as far ahead of me.

It really just depends on the quality and design of the LED bulb. Here's a comparison shot:

 

[alexwlwsn]

We're to about 850 miles on the car so far and it's been running good. Only a few more until T6 goodness goes back in and we can see if this motor is actually strong enough to make power.

I noticed my transmission was leaking fluid the other day and dug around to find out that it's the pivot shaft seal that's gone bad. One is on it's way with 2 day shipping so hopefully that solves my problem. I was thinking of making a write-up on it kinda like this one for MSO. I am sure my pictures won't be as pretty but might as well toss some more knowledge onto this site which we all love so dearly.

 

[Redline]

We're to about 850 miles on the car so far and it's been running good. Only a few more until T6 goodness goes back in and we can see if this motor is actually strong enough to make power.

I noticed my transmission was leaking fluid the other day and dug around to find out that it's the pivot shaft seal that's gone bad. One is on it's way with 2 day shipping so hopefully that solves my problem. I was thinking of making a write-up on it kinda like this one for MSO. I am sure my pictures won't be as pretty but might as well toss some more knowledge onto this site which we all love so dearly.

Soooooo close until the real fun begins! How's compression looking?

 

[alexwlwsn]

Soooooo close until the real fun begins! How's compression looking?

Ticked over 1000mi last night and checked compression and I'd say it's about as good as it gets. Granted, it's a different tester but I trust this Snap-On one over the last one I was using anyways. 190psi across the board:


So, I guess I did something right in building the motor and breaking it in!

Last night I changed to T6 and we are good to tune the car! I just have to finish wiring power to my Split Second and wire in the WOT Box. This weekend though I'll be taking the car to H2Oi in Ocean City, MD (only like 2hrs away) so some evening next week I'll be setting that all up. Hopefully next weekend we can start making some real noise. 93 first obviously and then we'll toss in the ethanol and go to town.

 

[Vader]

Win!

I'll keep an eye out for you on ocpdrollcall. lol.

 

[Redline]

Ticked over 1000mi last night and checked compression and I'd say it's about as good as it gets. Granted, it's a different tester but I trust this Snap-On one over the last one I was using anyways. 190psi across the board:
View attachment 4011

So, I guess I did something right in building the motor and breaking it in!

Last night I changed to T6 and we are good to tune the car! I just have to finish wiring power to my Split Second and wire in the WOT Box. This weekend though I'll be taking the car to H2Oi in Ocean City, MD (only like 2hrs away) so some evening next week I'll be setting that all up. Hopefully next weekend we can start making some real noise. 93 first obviously and then we'll toss in the ethanol and go to town.

Think T6 is appropriate for your build? I'm just curious, because obviously a built engine has much different clearances in key areas than a stock motor. Did your machine shop recommend a specific viscosity?

 

[alexwlwsn]

Think T6 is appropriate for your build? I'm just curious, because obviously a built engine has much different clearances in key areas than a stock motor. Did your machine shop recommend a specific viscosity?

My while I am running Clevite bearings, the clearances are the same as factory there. Other than that, so long as I am not consuming oil, based on my research I should be good with T6. I have not heard any strong evidence against using it but I am planning on getting it analysed at my first oil change and see what the results are. Granted, it will be an oil sample from 1000-4000 total miles on the motor but it should still be valuable information.