Raider's Neverending love/hate with Christine

Raider

Raider

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154k miles, factory ordered in 2006. Love her but she's aging and needs love. I've worn mods out and have a big thread on my new mounts soon. Recently installed a new FMIC to replace my aged Protege Garage. Next week, triple fail. Coupler blew but on top of that, my Autotech hpfp internals jammed up, and relief valve died as we discovered tonight installing CS internals. She purrs like a kitten now. Thankful for Nator. @Mauro_Penguin has spent an obscene amount of time restoring her. @neganox, @Shampu, and more have also helped. Thank you. Now to put another 2k miles a month on her!

Some pics of tonight's fun.
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Those things were seized. I literally had to hammer the internals apart with some wood and an 5lb hammer.

When Christine wants to break a part, she does it well.

I told Eric that it's all karma from drowning the car in red loctite over so many years.
 
The internals were a bitch to pry apart. They were caked with carbon (maybe?) or whatever crud that comes in 'Murican Petrol. Here are some pics of the initial cleaning I gave them last week, when we realized that it would be best to replace them along with the relief valve. 20190611_122544.jpg 20190611_122554.jpg 20190611_131453.jpg 41500.jpeg
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I used non-chlorinated brake cleaner (didnt have naphta or lighter fluid), paper towels and a whole lot of patience. Gave them a final soak in SL1. Lubed everything including the o-rings with motor oil and SL1 accordingly.

My guess is the relief valve got stuck open from crap, and the pump started working overtime to keep fuel pressure high until all the crud built up on the internals. It's a great thing that the spill valve still works since I'm sure it was stuck open also trying to feed fuel.

We switched internals first since they were risky to reuse, cranked the engine with gas pedal down just to get oil and fuel moving into the HPFP. Pressure was still down so we swapped the relief valve. We used the turbo oil feed copper washer on the new relief valve (did it on mine a few weeks ago), and viola!!! Pressure was back.

The corksport internals were surprisingly nice. The included tool is to tap the keeper cup down on the piston without fucking up any hardware. Instead of wedge style valve keepers like the OEM design, corksport uses a cup and plate assembly that has to get pressed down in order to stay on the piston assembly. I have no idea how it would come apart for cleaning, maybe a wide flathead and some careful wedging... But the fact that they come with a new spring is nice. So far so good!
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
The internals were a bitch to pry apart. They were caked with carbon (maybe?) or whatever crud that comes in 'Murican Petrol. Here are some pics of the initial cleaning I gave them last week, when we realized that it would be best to replace them along with the relief valve. View attachment 11406 View attachment 11407 View attachment 11408 View attachment 11409
View attachment 11410

I used non-chlorinated brake cleaner (didnt have naphta or lighter fluid), paper towels and a whole lot of patience. Gave them a final soak in SL1. Lubed everything including the o-rings with motor oil and SL1 accordingly.

My guess is the relief valve got stuck open from crap, and the pump started working overtime to keep fuel pressure high until all the crud built up on the internals. It's a great thing that the spill valve still works since I'm sure it was stuck open also trying to feed fuel.

We switched internals first since they were risky to reuse, cranked the engine with gas pedal down just to get oil and fuel moving into the HPFP. Pressure was still down so we swapped the relief valve. We used the turbo oil feed copper washer on the new relief valve (did it on mine a few weeks ago), and viola!!! Pressure was back.

The corksport internals were surprisingly nice. The included tool is to tap the keeper cup down on the piston without fucking up any hardware. Instead of wedge style valve keepers like the OEM design, corksport uses a cup and plate assembly that has to get pressed down in order to stay on the piston assembly. I have no idea how it would come apart for cleaning, maybe a wide flathead and some careful wedging... But the fact that they come with a new spring is nice. So far so good!
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Copper washer for spill valve?
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
Copper washer for spill valve?
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¿que? The spill valve is sealed with o-rings. I hope I didnt pull a "covfefe."

I bought gaskets to spare when I installed my BNR this past December. The turbo oil feed washer is the same size as the one needed for the relief valve, which is handy if you dont want to reuse the old one from your botched RV.

Or did I miss something completely?
 
No that's all good I thought you were talking about using a copper washer on the spill valve which I was like ummmmm there isn't one. I just read it wrong.
 
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Betting on Rotella.
Also folks, worst HPFP I've ever seen was bone stock and came out of a CX7 that only ever ran pump gas. Shit was so fucked up it came with the housing that bolts to the head because they couldn't get it out of the housing. Likely cheap oil there, but still.
 
What oil do i use? Brotella.
 
Enki said:
Yep, called it. Should probably swap to something else that won't fuck up the HPFP; basically anything with the new DEXOS label will be fine.
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Gonna look into Motul. Brotella did me well, but fwiw, 80k on the internals no service is on me
 
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