Tahoetim42
Greenie N00B Member
Installing coilovers on my own, and the upper rear shock mounts are being a HUGE pain the ass, anyone got any tips?
Rear Shock Removal
- Thread starter Tahoetim42
- Start date
Your not missing anything they are a pain in the ass. Just have to suck it up
Cfoldone
Silver Member
Just thought to add since I found this post with G search in my quest of same question.
It is a PIA....Manual is cryptic as usual on removal of rear shock upper mount brackets. 3 bolts need to be removed and none of the bolts are a straight shot for access. Assembly line install is why the hangers have this finger looking hook to allow line install not for our access. Be prepared for debris to spill into eyes from the pockets as you work under vehicle!
I found using a swivel adapter with tubing to help with reinstall of bolts. Long angle 14mm box wrench for 2 of the bolts are needed to tighten, no other way for the torque of 30 ftlb. My hands did actually fit deep enough to access the bolt heads for tightening.
I have a very clean CA only cream-puff with no rust, if yours isn't...I weep.
I found that bending enough to break off that finger tab make removal of the bracket much easier, its a tight fit to twist and pull shock/bracket assembly out. Going from above axle from the side helps in releasing that out of the pia spot too.
See pictures hopefully your task was as easy as mine.
Bilstien B8's are freaking great too, well worth the effort.
It is a PIA....Manual is cryptic as usual on removal of rear shock upper mount brackets. 3 bolts need to be removed and none of the bolts are a straight shot for access. Assembly line install is why the hangers have this finger looking hook to allow line install not for our access. Be prepared for debris to spill into eyes from the pockets as you work under vehicle!
I found using a swivel adapter with tubing to help with reinstall of bolts. Long angle 14mm box wrench for 2 of the bolts are needed to tighten, no other way for the torque of 30 ftlb. My hands did actually fit deep enough to access the bolt heads for tightening.
I have a very clean CA only cream-puff with no rust, if yours isn't...I weep.
I found that bending enough to break off that finger tab make removal of the bracket much easier, its a tight fit to twist and pull shock/bracket assembly out. Going from above axle from the side helps in releasing that out of the pia spot too.
See pictures hopefully your task was as easy as mine.
Bilstien B8's are freaking great too, well worth the effort.