Rear Sway Bars
- Thread starter Finch204
- Start date
-CS
-Stiffest setting because duh
-Only been installed for a few days and roads have been too shitty to properly test, but first impressions are that steering feels more neutral, and cornering more stable, when taking turns at the same speeds which previously brought out a bit of understeer.
-Stiffest setting because duh
-Only been installed for a few days and roads have been too shitty to properly test, but first impressions are that steering feels more neutral, and cornering more stable, when taking turns at the same speeds which previously brought out a bit of understeer.
Pretty sure CS in stiffest setting is ~893lbs because it's 180% as stiff as stock, and stock is 496, IIRC. My JBR in the middle setting is 718lbs. Stiffest JBR setting is 901lbs, so almost identical to CS in stiffest setting. The JBR 250, however goes all the way up to 2011lbs o.0
That depends on where the figure for stock RSB stiffness is coming from. JBR and Hotchkis, for example, either report different stock figures or measure the stiffness ratings of their bars differently; I think it ends up making for a slightly difficult apples to apples comparison.
I ultimately went with CS because no welds, and it's a solid bar whereas JBR's is described as tubular. I'm sure both work just fine, so it really came down to preference.
I ultimately went with CS because no welds, and it's a solid bar whereas JBR's is described as tubular. I'm sure both work just fine, so it really came down to preference.
JBR went tubular to have the combination of stiffness with thicker stock, yet lightness, b/c hollow. And their competition bars are welded and go to over 2000lbs, so I'm feeling pretty confident in the welds on the middle setting on my 125 at only ~700lbs. FWIH, when done correctly, the welds can be actually stronger than the base metal itself. It is definitely a non-issue on the CS, though. I hear ya, for sure.
[doublepost=1485904366][/doublepost]If you want super-stiff but no welds:
I don't think that'd be too street-friendly, though. LOL
That's how you do it! Many people who don't know better buy both and crank them up all the way, which totally defeats the purpose in changing the handling balance, and literally lowers the G's you can pull in the corners.
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-JBR
-Stiffest
-Absolutely
I am probably going to replace the brackets soon.
-Stiffest
-Absolutely
I am probably going to replace the brackets soon.
Castillo817
Greenie N00B Member
^Same here.
Already have the upgraded beefy rear brackets though.
Already have the upgraded beefy rear brackets though.
Old school JBR, probably what the 125 is now.
Middle setting along with billet brackets, and endlinks shimmed for preload.
Full retard suspension.
Neutral steering. Much approved.
Middle setting along with billet brackets, and endlinks shimmed for preload.
Full retard suspension.
Neutral steering. Much approved.
I know lots of people run full stiff setting on the JBR 125, but personally I've found that since my spring rate is about 2x normal amount (430lbs/in), it's like I have a much stiffer anti-roll bar anyways. Anti-roll bars essentially distribute the load from one side seen by one spring/shock to both sides and both springs/shocks, effectively increasing the spring rate and roll-axis resistance. So my springs make the middle setting feel a lot more influential in how the car handles than if I was on, for instance, my old Swift springs (252 lbs/in).
Do you have stiffer springs too, @Mauro_Penguin?
Do you have stiffer springs too, @Mauro_Penguin?
m00secakez
Greenie N00B Member
- CorkSport
- Stiffest setting
- Cornering has definitely improved. This is one of those mods that you just have to get.
- Stiffest setting
- Cornering has definitely improved. This is one of those mods that you just have to get.
Quigs
Greenie N00B Member
I have the JBR .125 on the middle setting. I have the regular brackets that come with it because I'm cheap. Definitely a great "bang for the buck" mod. I like the middle setting over the stiffest, it feels more neutral to me. Combined with sticky 245 tires, the rear definitely stays planted and follows the front nicely.
I like that the car goes where it's told and that there's never any guessing or major corrections needed on the wheel due to instability in the suspension or major under/oversteer. A buddy of mine has the .250 competition bar on full stiff and he could almost compete in drifting competitions with how the rear end wants to hang out. I'd rather use braking and throttle to get the rear to rotate more if needed.
I like that the car goes where it's told and that there's never any guessing or major corrections needed on the wheel due to instability in the suspension or major under/oversteer. A buddy of mine has the .250 competition bar on full stiff and he could almost compete in drifting competitions with how the rear end wants to hang out. I'd rather use braking and throttle to get the rear to rotate more if needed.
Indeed, along with a whiteline FSB.
I'll post up more details about the senseless burning of money that is my car soon.
nekret
Greenie N00B Member
When I was on the stock front bar, the middle was also my favorite. Full stiff was a bit too tail happy for my taste.
rusty
Greenie N00B Member
I have a JBR 125 on stiffest. Been like that for 5 years no issues. I also use a Tri Point Race rear sway for autocross and road racing. That beast only gets middle setting. Can't remember off the top of my head but it's stiff as fuck. Lowest setting is stiffer than the highest setting on my JBR. I call it the end link destroyer.