Rear Sway Bars

I have JBR in the middle setting. I like how the car handles, but I have never tried the other 2 settings. Swaybar has been working great for me. Powdercoating is peeling off like all of the other JBR steel products I have owned, but the bar performs well. I have an acquaintance who's JBR rsb broke at the weld (a bad batch that JBR has since remedied). Suprisingly he didn't even notice until it was on a lift for an oil change. I would hope I would be able to tell the difference in handling if that happened to me.

On another note; I put a beefier swaybar on my wife's mazda 5 and it made a HUGE improvement! probably because it is more top heavy and has squishier tires and suspension than the speed.
 
I went with the Progress adjustable rear sway bar. Has two settings. 32mm. Hella cheap at the time . Comes with upgraded brackets and built in lateral locks. Or whatever those rings are callled that help keep the bar in place. White line calls them lateral locks. Anyway, upgraded to JBR billet brackets. Just another option sine it looks like folks gravitate towards JBR and/or CS
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Hotchkis. My bar has over 200k miles on it at the stiffest setting and is freaking awesome. Only thing I've broken are a few of the bushing brackets over the years.
 
Ive got the newest Corksport bar w/the billet brackets
Set to 180% stiffer than stock.
The car is definitely more balanced than before. I loved corners before, love 'me even more now. Also replaced the endlinks w/new OEM. Clunking is gone!
 
Thanks for the input everyone!

It looks like the consensus is, no matter what rear sway bar you upgrade to, you do not run the softest setting. Also, no one seems to have any issues running the stiffer settings.
 
A month on since install, no, and CS on stiff has treated me well. The only issue I've had was a clunk that developed due to one of the Moog endlinks coming slightly loose -- my own fault, I forgot locktite when assembling.
 
SharksInSpace said:
A month on since install, no, and CS on stiff has treated me well. The only issue I've had was a clunk that developed due to one of the Moog endlinks coming slightly loose -- my own fault, I forgot locktite when assembling.
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If torqued to spec, you shouldn't need loctite. I guess it's nice insurance, though...
 
Tri-Point Engineering RSB, stiffest setting. Honestly I can't remember what these cars feel like stock; I put this on the day after I bought it, and it was on my genwin for over 150k miles.

Me likey though.
 
Redline said:
JBR went tubular to have the combination of stiffness with thicker stock, yet lightness, b/c hollow. And their competition bars are welded and go to over 2000lbs, so I'm feeling pretty confident in the welds on the middle setting on my 125 at only ~700lbs. FWIH, when done correctly, the welds can be actually stronger than the base metal itself. It is definitely a non-issue on the CS, though. I hear ya, for sure.
[doublepost=1485904366][/doublepost]If you want super-stiff but no welds:
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I don't think that'd be too street-friendly, though. LOL
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For what it's worth, my JBR bar snapped a weld. He replaced it but still it did happen.
 
djohns said:
For what it's worth, my JBR bar snapped a weld. He replaced it but still it did happen.
Click to expand...

Same thing happened to me. He replaced it but I just proactively bought the .250 bar and sold the warranty replacement he sent. If I broke it once I have to assume I'd break it again.
 
No issues here. Bar's been on for years. Same with the brackets - perfect condition. Were y'all runnin full stiff?
 
I've been running the rear bar at full stiff for a year now with the billet brackets (2nd version) and no issues. Before that I was running it at the medium setting for about 2 years. I wonder if it's a bit of a crap shoot if your welds will hold.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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