She blew up on track…

I am 100% skeptical of a local tuner and a car that just randomly blows up while making stock power. If the 2.5 is cheap and you got the time I would say sure , go for it, make it work and make a thread. Even if it blows up in a year you can swap another other one. You could probably get a reliable 300whp out of it as long as the cooling and other maintenance is there. I wouldn't trust a local tuner over freek tune or purple drank. They have been tuning these cars for 10+ years now and can keep it safe for your goals.
 
Got my last tune from Hypnotic, and will be going with Dramatuning on the next one. The quality E-tuners for our platform are strong af.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I am 100% skeptical of a local tuner and a car that just randomly blows up while making stock power. If the 2.5 is cheap and you got the time I would say sure , go for it, make it work and make a thread. Even if it blows up in a year you can swap another other one. You could probably get a reliable 300whp out of it as long as the cooling and other maintenance is there. I wouldn't trust a local tuner over freek tune or purple drank. They have been tuning these cars for 10+ years now and can keep it safe for your goals.
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A stock 2.5 is safe to make 300hp? They must be made with better parts than I thought.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
A stock 2.5 is safe to make 300hp? They must be made with better parts than I thought.
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A stock 2.5 can make roughly the same power stock for stock as a 2.3l if you take it easy, but they are a bit more fragile in our application. There really is not much benefit besides being cheap over a 2.3l. I have yet to see a high HP 2.5 in our application with Dyno sheets to back it up, seems like every time someone claims to have one it either breaks or they part out.
 
I've looked into the 2.5 swap a fair bit now, and here's my takeaways from what I've learned:

- If you want it to last on a speed, you should at least consider gapping the rings. The 2.5s don't seem to last much past 5-10k miles under boost when you just swap it straight over. Considering it was designed/built for NA applications, that's not too surprising.
- Swap all of the 2.3 parts/sensors/etc over to the 2.5, minus the timing components. 2.5 timing components are stronger (still use the 2.3 timing cover and crank pulley though).
- Nothing needs to be done ECU/tune wise.
- Will need to do something for the turbo oil feed/drain.

If I ever put a window in my block, I'll be doing a forged piston/rod 2.5 build.
 
jsmith said:
"timing components are stronger" Say hwwhat now?
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Probably should have worded that differently, but the consensus seems to be that the 2.5 timing chain is stronger. But to use the 2.5 chain, you have to use all of the 2.5 timing components, like the cam gears and crank sprocket. There was a picture posted of the 2.3 and 2.5 chain side by side recently, I'll have to see if I can find it.
 
N/A 2.3 from the older mazda3/6 and the 2.5L from fusions and new mazda do have a stronger chain, and thicker gears, just google the chain, sp63 just came out with "custom" heavy duty chain for the speed but looks like its just from a 2.5 with the exhaust cam gear being the only custom part. speed have 40 toot while the N/A have 38tooth, the thicker sp63 custom gear have a 40 tooth

also the crank sprocket and oil sprocket is one piece and no friction washer in the middle.

not sure why the speed have a bicycle timing chain compare to the N/A counter parts.

going back to the 2.5 talk, you should definitely keep in mind that ring gaps as its way titghter since its N/A

I have an experience working on the 2.5 that was swap to a miata, although was forged (built) and for the crank some people say its fragile but noone actually ever tried and prove it, there is an sp63 2.5 stroker kit available for this platform but IMO its prolly just reversed engineer 2.5 N/A parts might

theres no other clearance or heavy modifying to bolt on the 2.5 to DISI head it will bolt straight heck even the head gaskets

also for your oil pan, you have to use your stock since some of the 2.5 have the a/c compressor cutout in their oil pan,

for turbo oil drain, youll have to drill the block or drill the oil pan,. Id suggest the oil pan since its easier. and for the feed you can just grab one of those oil filter sandwhich plate.

please keep in mind that if youre trying to make 350hp and trying to be reliable then it wont happen due to the ring gaps.

also for the tuner, I would also suggest ETUNER. since its more AFFORDABLE, you dont have to pay a DYNO rental for etuning, since its done in a "private straight road" just put in in fourth gear in 3k rpm then hit redline and do it twice and thats it, lol do that till the tune is finish.

for your engine failure, it might be your oil pump, I had one failure like that, the oil pump pressure regulator pop out and the pump stop pumping oil, and ofcourse its not tune related lol just got very unlucky.
 
kornerz said:
I’m not a fan of built engines, it’s rare when you see one last as long as a stock engine (stock power) built by a robot lol.
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I don’t know if that’s actually true, but if it is true my guess is that it’s because people don’t usually build their engines and then not also upgrade them and push them harder. I rebuilt my engine with Manley pistons and K1 rods primarily for reliability.
 
On regards to E-Tuning, I'm sitting at 181k miles on a stock motor with a highflow cat and all the proper supporting mods. I'm currently tuned by Freektune and I really haven't had any complaints what so ever. The car's been running strong and true 1 year later.
 
Having been tuned locally on a dyno(before I ever joined the forums),

few weeks went by and I went etune. It cost me less money, the car made more power, and was overall more of a joy to drive. That tune took me through 1.5 years of street driving and 3.5 years of 6-7 track events per year. Gt3071r turbo the entire time.

best mod I did was not the turbo, but a proper etune from one of the platforms known tuners.

shit on etunes all you want. I did at first. The difference is night and day.

few states over? Give me a break. Guys in a different country then me. It’s not an issue.
 
gotovato said:
Having been tuned locally on a dyno(before I ever joined the forums),

few weeks went by and I went etune. It cost me less money, the car made more power, and was overall more of a joy to drive. That tune took me through 1.5 years of street driving and 3.5 years of 6-7 track events per year. Gt3071r turbo the entire time.

best mod I did was not the turbo, but a proper etune from one of the platforms known tuners.

shit on etunes all you want. I did at first. The difference is night and day.

few states over? Give me a break. Guys in a different country then me. It’s not an issue.
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Now that is some preaching haha Good testimony to the legitimacy of our etuners man for real
 
There are some good local tuners out here. EbTec does dyno and e-tuning locally here in Atlanta. I also saw that SP63 has a 2.5 stroker for the Speed platform. They have videos and dyno shots showing 700+ to the wheel. Interesting to say the least. I fancy myself a rebel, considering buying one of them to drop in my shitbox with a CST5 and Corksport TMIC.
 
mikedunnit said:
There are some good local tuners out here. EbTec does dyno and e-tuning locally here in Atlanta. I also saw that SP63 has a 2.5 stroker for the Speed platform. They have videos and dyno shots showing 700+ to the wheel. Interesting to say the least. I fancy myself a rebel, considering buying one of them to drop in my shitbox with a CST5 and Corksport TMIC.
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Pretty sure ebtecs dyno runs are freektune tuning there i know he's tuned there before or atleast done some remote tunes. Good luck getting a motor from speed performance they are slow as hell these days guys have waited months past their estimated delivery.
 
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